Checklist to pick up a new (to me) 480DB

[brimanst]

The good news: I just purchased a 1998 480DB.
The better news: I traded my 2002 340DA in the deal.
The even better news (if there is such a thing): I need to go pick it up from South Florida and sail to Key West since the lake is closed.

The Background:
This boat appears to be meticulously maintained with more records that I can go through. I am not sure however when the last time it was run, except for the survey where it performed great, AND this will be my first experience with MARINE diesels.

The Question(s):

• What steps should I take with the fuel assuming that the tanks are not completely full?
  I have read that some folks put a shock treatment in the unused part of the fuel, then run that fuel out, then change the filters.
  I have read that some biocide with a tank fill up, and change the filters when necessary.
  Which brings up the questions about additives. I am not sure if the cetenal needs to be boosted and why, also does it matter what brand of biocide you use.
  I know I have to prime the fuel system after I change the filters, and my survey indicates that there are manual pumps on main engines for primers. Can anyone explain where these would be located on a CAT 3196 engine?
  Also, I have the dual RACOR systems and my understanding is that one is a primary and the other is offline so to speak until needed. I saw another post where he changed out all 5 filters so it confused me a little, as I would think that 2 of them would be unused unless switched into the system

I will be running this boat back to Charleston, SC. so I will have plenty of hours to clean up any fuel problems, or just plain get stuck. Any advice will be appreciated.

 

[Four Suns]

Good... another 480 DB owner on the board. I thought the 1998 version had detroit diesels but I guess not. I'm sure Frank W. will chime in as I don't have any experience with those engines.

I have dual racors on each side of my Cummins and they are used simultaneously. There is a valve on the front (for mine) that allows you to choose to use either filter alone or both at the same time. I do both at the same time.

 

[Petep]

Brimanst, welcome, I have the same set-up as Gary's post above. The reference to a post with changing all 5 Racors was something I wrote, that's 2 for each main (4) and 1 for the genny=5 total. I also hope Frank W. chimes in, as I know how to do this stuff-but he knows how to explain it! Yes, Grasshopper.....

 

[fwebster]

So as I understand it, you have a new much larger boat with many systems more complex than your trade in and you are going to run her on her own bottom in new waters to you for several days to get her from So. Fla to SC..............I'll get to some of your specific questions, but first, here are some recommendations......

Search CSR for previous discussion on fuel system management, fuel treatment, changing filters etc.

Hire a captain with experience in larger diesel boats to make the trip or most of it with you. A crowded busy ICW channel in South Fla is not the time nor the place to change your first set of fuel filters or to figure out what's going on with a new to you boat.

You have moved up to a completely different category of boating and handling this boat requires different techniques. You need to keep your mind and thought processes a good bit further ahead of this boat because the resulting action when you do something with the throttles or gears happens quicker and once motion starts, it takes a lot longer for it to dissipate. Just slowing down in a 480DB isn't enough when wakes are a concern. In fact slowing a larger boat from cruise speeds to a fast idle many times makes the wake worse.......to manage your wake you have to break off your stern wake and let it pass under you, then you may speed up a little if you need to.

Your specific questions are:

1."What steps should I take with the fuel assuming that the tanks are not completely full?
I have read that some folks put a shock treatment in the unused part of the fuel, then run that fuel out, then change the filters. I have read that some biocide with a tank fill up, and change the filters when necessary.
"

I would not shock the tanks until you have the boat where you can change several sets of filters. After a winter in So. Fla, you probably have some sludge in them. The algae and microbes grow in the presence of water and adhere to the tank and baffles near the bottom. They look like long stringy spider webs stuck together. A shock dose of a biocide will kill the live microbes and cause the strings to dislodge. Once broken loose, they go directly to the Racors and clog them up. If you shock dirty tanks, it would take a boxcar load of Racor elements to get you to SC. I would add a good fuel treatment like Power Service Products Diesel Kleen plus Cetane Boost in addition to their Diesel 9-1-1 and top off the tanks. Then run the boat until you have about 30% of your fuel remaining, then treat, top off and do it again. The 9-1-1 product is designed to break apart the dislodged microbial growth into particles small enough to pass thru the filtration system without clogging filters. This will tend to burn off some of the contaminants.

(Note: I don’t necessarily recommend Power Service products, but I do use them in all my equipment with excellent cost effective results. I use their products as an example because Power Service has an excellent website where you can learn about additives and do your own research.


2. “Which brings up the questions about additives. I am not sure if the cetenal needs to be boosted and why, also does it matter what brand of biocide you use.â€

First, it’s not just about fuel additives……fuel system management is also critical. Partially filled tanks condense moisture on the tank walls since the tanks are vented to the atmosphere. Keep your tanks as full as possible. Buy your fuel from the place on the water that pumps the most diesel fuel because his tanks will have been cycled with fresh fuel more frequently that the little guy who just sells to 3-4 customers. Once you get your tanks clean, add a biocide to every fill up in maintenance concentrations to prevent microbial growth.

Add a fuel treatment additive every time you buy fuel. Select an additive that contains no alcohol because alcohol can damage the rubber parts in your injectors and injection pump. Select and additive the replaces the lubricity in fuel as well as one that increases the cetane, All of our fuel now is either LSD or USLD and the process that removes the sulfur also strip out the fuel’s natural ability to lubricate and reduces the cetane level. The injectors and injection pump are lubricated by the fuel that passes thru them, not by engine oil so running ULSD can contribute to premature wear on some real expensive parts. Reduced cetane leads to hard starting which increases wear in the governor, the pump, the starter motor, the flywheel, etc. So, it is important to select a fuel treatment that increases lubricity and cetane levels.


3. “I know I have to prime the fuel system after I change the filters, and my survey indicates that there are manual pumps on main engines for primers. Can anyone explain where these would be located on a CAT 3196 engine?â€

Caterpillar priming pumps are located on the engine mounted fuel filter mounting bracket. Look for a round knurled knob about 1†in dia and about 5/8†thick. Read the Cat operators manual in your owner’s packet to see how to open the fuel flow to the pump and prime the filters. This pump will only prime the engine mounted Cat filter; it will not prime the Racors which must be primed manually.


4. “Also, I have the dual RACOR systems and my understanding is that one is a primary and the other is offline so to speak until needed. I saw another post where he changed out all 5 filters so it confused me a little, as I would think that 2 of them would be unused unless switched into the system.â€

No……don not run dual Racors with on off line. There is a yellow handle valve between the filters that permits 4 positions…..off, left, right, and both. Select both. Here’s why. The filtration of the Racors is limited to the amount of filter media area available for the fuel to flow thru. If you use only one side of the dual set up, then you cut your capacity in half. Sure, you still have the other filter available, but you only change to it after you discover you have clogged the first one and shut down an engine. Run on both of the filters and your first indication of a problem will be the engine slowing down, not quitting (as it would with one filter) because you have 2X the flow capacity.

On the subject of Racors, don’t over do it…use 30 micron Racors; the Cat high efficiency filters are 2 microns so your engines are protected.

And don’t make this trip without taking along at least a case of Racor elements and about 6 Cat filters.

Hope this helps…………….

 

[brimanst]

Thanks for the advice. I am hiring a capt, but not for the whole trip. I am aware that these systems are fairly new to me so I have been reading, reading reading. I have done a fair amount of cruising (and can't wait to do more) so I have had lots of things break, not to mention my old diesel motorhome.

I have read quite a bit on fuel management, and I have friends that all chime in as well, there is just so much information and it is hard to assertain fact from opinion. I plan on having lots of filters though, and I will continue to educate myself on fuel management and a lot more.