Changing Anodes on a 260 Bravo III

H

Harleydragon

New Member
May 9, 2008
6
St. Pete Beach
Boat Info
Sea Ray Sundancer 260
Engines
Mercruiser w/Bravo III
I need to have the prop anode changed and I have seen kits for the Bravo III (03 and newer). Any advice or know the difficulty factor in doing it yourself versus paying for a new car for the service manager at the dealer :) Thanks.
 
It should be a piece of cake. Unbolt, bolt on. Why are you not doing all the anodes?
 
Anyone ever done it in the water... no wait, that didn't come out right... anyone ever changed them all out in the water? I don't have a trailer... :smt089
 
Easy, Easy. It is nice to have a flexible nut driver for the anodes on each control arm.
 
The job is easy once you have the right set of sockets, extensions, etc. I use 1/4" drive as well as 3/8" drive. You'll need a thin socket to fit inside the hole for one of the cavitation plate anodes. Also a thin socket for the control arm screws which will be the same size as the prop anode. Some new kits now come with hex heads so that was another type of socket I needed. You'll also need a small tube of threadlock (red).
 
Buy the Mercruiser anode "kit" it will come with new fasteners which are precoated with a threadlocker (and "I"believe it to be a anti corrosive compound). The kit is alot less money than individual anodes. Having '01 B3's I can't help you with tool selection...I would find one on land to eye up before doing one in the water. Mike

ps: I know they have more anodes on the later b3's...did they ever manage to get one behind the props? Or just on the output shaft and on the skeg?
 
.. the Mercruiser anodes are fine. I've been buying an 3rd party kit (specifically for post 2003 bIII's) from ebay at about 1/2 the cost of the mercruiser price but they do not have the threadlock built in.
 
DaveS, directed me to boatzincs.com earlier this year. They have everything and at good prices.

If you are in tidal water and have sandy beaches you can anchor at highish tide, pull the drive all the way up and let the boat settle down its side. Making sure anything that can roll around inside is secured. Just be sure to check for rocks, or shells before the hull contacts ground. If you are really concerned, you can also get a couple (or more) of truck tire (10:00 x 20) inner tubes and support the hull. This happens to our boat at least twice a year when we have the summer solstice tides that go negative at low. Fortunately our mooring is in nice soft mud.

Henry
 
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