Cetol and bilge paint question

[RLKBOB]

First question is about using Cetol. I've read in many posts that it's the way to go for my teak but I have a question. I noticed when I went to WM that Sikkens is made by Cetol. The PO used Sikkens and it was peeling bad and looked like crap. I just spent all day sanding it all off and removed the handrails and other inside trim to sand in the garage. Has the formula changed or can I look forward to it peeling after a few years and having to sand it again before re-treating? I also noticed there's a lot to choose from, which one looks the best or seems to be the most preferred?

Second, I want to paint my bilge. I think it's the original 30 y/o paint and is rubbed off in places and there is a spot about a 3 inch circle close to the port engine mount where it is bare glass fibers(nothing rubbing on it though, maybe the PO hit it when R&R the engine for the rebuild he did). Anyway 2 questions.
1. Is there a certain paint I should use for this?
2. What's the best degreaser I should use to make sure the paint adheres? I used purple power and the bilge looks way better but I can still see a sheen when I get it wet so I doubt paint will stick.

Thanks for any help.

 

[tdappleman]

I can't help you on the Cetol - but did recently repaint my bilge. My camera is now missing in action with the pics still on it but went from gray to white. I used BilgeKote in white and added anti-slip to those areas where I typically step for maintenance. I removed the hot water heater as I also did some cleanup and maintenance on it - surface rust on the casing. I used a strong degreaser and let it soak for awhile and then scrubbed all accessible areas and then rinsed very well. Then I sanded everything I could get to and wiped down with acetone and clean rags. I let everything dry and air out - run the bilge blower while using the acetone! You still may get a little light headed but the blower is a big help! I then taped all of the edges and then brushed them and rolled the res with a 3" roller. I can't remember if I used Purple Power or if I used Simple Green - both do a great job and the key is the light sanding with the acetone or wax/grease remover afterwards. On my 270 I used 1 quart which gave me enough to go over all of the accessible and visible surfaces twice. The bright white is fantastic - much brighter and the fresh paint is much easier to keep clean.

 

[Redhook98]

The BilgeKote method above is dead-on. That is what I did as well.

As for the Cetol and teak..... Teak is a very oily wood. If you want to varnish it or put any other coating on it besides oil, you must first seal it. You can get the correct sealer at any place that sells good varnish. The "Extra Dry" formula is what is needed for teak. For any other pourus woords (oak, mahogany, etc) use the normal sealer. It cuts down on the number of coats of varnish (or whatever you are using).

There is no way around sealing the teak. It may look good without the sealer for a year or two, but it WILL flake off and/or peel evenually without it.

 

[ghuskin]

Bob,

The sikkens/Cetol does not build up like a varnish/urethane finish. it looks more natural. after a few years, you can lightly sand the finish and re-coat.

 

[tdschafer]

When I painted the bilge in my 260 the motor was out so it was a little easier. I hit it with an oil fired steam cleaner/pressure washer. Then scrubbed it with a heavy duty bilge cleaner. I followed that with about a gallon of lacqeur thinner and many rags. I used the light gray bilge paint from west marine and it still looked great when I sold it 10 years later.
As for the Cetol. Def the way to go. You will see the way Cetol bonds it lets the grain of the wood breathe. When it gets wet you will see the grain get dark, unlike any varnish or poly. The key is to use a medium grit sandpaper, not fine. The med grit will give the Cetol something to grab onto. I used to give mine a light sanding every other year and recoated. The finish will last indefinitely this way. Good Luck. Todd

 

[RLKBOB]

Thanks for the replies. I should've done a better search before posting. Right after I posted this I went to page 2 and saw your post on painting the bilge(I can't believe I didn't think of using acetone to degrease it after the purple). I got the sand paper and acetone today, already have the purple power. Just got back from WM and they didn't have any bilgecoat so I'll have to check again this weekend when I go back to pick up a couple brackets I ordered for my Bimini.

I swear these people at West Marine don't know anything about boats just where the stuff is in the store. They all say "Why would you want 4200 instead of 5200?" I just got a tube of 4200. Can't help at all with any questions about taking care of teak. Everything they told me is a direct contradiction to what I've read on here and I'll go with what the boat owners say over a store employee anytime.

BTW, does anybody know where I can get teak boards. My boat has white plastic between the stantions under the handrails(mounted vertical). The plastic is pretty flimsy and after 30 years has some cracks. I think it would look way better with wood in it's place. If teak isn't feasable for this size(boards about 6" wide and 2-6 feet long) what wood would work and look good? If I don't use teak I would at leastlike it to look similar in appearance.

Thanks again.

 

[bwthomas]

right now teak is about $44.75 a lin./ft for a 6" board. I bought IROKO, for about $4.75 a lin./ft. Iroko is just as durable as teak, looks very similar when stained, has a silicone base naturally in the wood and does not take as much stain to finish as teak does (not nearly as thirsty). My research indicated that many companies that used teak for finishing now use IROKO. IROKO is from Africa

 

[RLKBOB]

Very good to know, thanks. Where would I go to find it? It doesn't sound like something everyone carries but sounds perfect for what I want to do.

 

[bwthomas]

got ours at a specialty lumber store here that carries teak and other exotic woods. That is where I would start. Also may want to google Iroko and see what it gets you. BTW, where in Michigan are you?

 

[RLKBOB]

We're in the SE corner near the Ohio line.

I googled it last night after I read your post. There are a few places on line that it looks like I could get it(even get a sample for $4 to see how it looks compared to my teak). I plan on looking for some local places before ordering on line.

Thanks again.