Centering boat on trailer during loading

[KHE]

I have a 1997 240 Sundancer that sits on an EZ Loader bunk trailer that was built for the boat. I've only owned the boat for a couple of months so I'm still learing what works and what doesn't when loading it. It has a Fulton T2625 winch. If I leave the forward 6" of bunks out of the water, the boat self-centers on the trailer but I just about need a heart transplant after cranking it up. I also noticed I am overloading the winch - it is rated at 2600 pounds for the first layer and 1180 pounds with a full drum. The boat has a dry weight of 4300 lbs. and with a full tank of fuel, water, batteries, gear, etc., I estimate it weighs 5100 lbs. According to Fulton, I need a 3200-3700 lb. capacity winch but the gear ratios are the same so it wouldn't help on the cranking effort.

If I back the trailer in far enough so that it is easy to crank (float it on the trailer), the stern is not centered and I need to back it back in a few times in order to get it centered. I made a gauge out of a piece of 2x4 to check to see if it's centered before I pull all the way out of the water.

I am considering a Powerwinch RC30 but am concerned about the long-term reliability after reading all the bad reviews online. I realize the online reviews are usually biased to the negative side but several state the remote quit after the first couple of uses. A $450 winch should not have those issues. It is also a significant expense.

Another possibility is adding some sort of centering bunks at the side - I don't like the tall poles that use PVC pipe as they leave marks on the hull that look like cellophane when the boat is unloaded. I've seen the vertical rollers that mount on the trailer frame but most are not tall enough to reach the boat when it is in the water. Other trailers have side bunks mounted low on the hull.

What do the members on this forum use to keep their boat centered when loading it on the trailer?

 

[davidh82]

I use the PVC pipes for my 240 and they make a huge difference. The pipes don't stay in contact with the boat, they only make contact when the boat drifts too far one way or the other. I haven't noticed any marks left on the hull.

I also tend to leave the bunks partially unsubmerged and will rely on the winch to pull the boat.
The only problem I've had with this method is that the keel of the boat has been rubbing quite a bit on the trailer cross members. After almost a year there is a section where the gelcoat rubbed off of the keel and had to be repaired.

 

[Tonka Boater]

I use the PVC pipes for my 240 and they make a huge difference. The pipes don't stay in contact with the boat, they only make contact when the boat drifts too far one way or the other. I haven't noticed any marks left on the hull.

I also tend to leave the bunks partially unsubmerged and will rely on the winch to pull the boat.
The only problem I've had with this method is that the keel of the boat has been rubbing quite a bit on the trailer cross members. After almost a year there is a section where the gelcoat rubbed off of the keel and had to be repaired.

I also use the PVC trailer guides and they really help on windy days. As David mentioned, they don't make contact with the boat ... just loose enough to keep the boat in line.

As for cranking, is your ramp too shallow too drive it on all they to the winch stand? I do as you mentioned, I back in and leave about 6" of the bunks out of the water then drive the boat onto the trailer with the drive trimmed up some (how much trim depends on your boat/ramp situation). When I'm centered on the bunks I apply enough throttle to push me all the way up to the winch then I can run to the bow and lean over to attach the strap and safety chain. Once the boat is secure (takes 5 seconds) I move the throttle back to neutral, turn off the engine and trim the drive to trailering position.

Here are the trailer guides that I use:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F3D16E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01

And here's our own Dennis (aka Lazy Daze) showing how to power load your boat on a trailer. The boat in this video is similar in size to mine and this is exactly how I do it. If I'm solo I do everything the same except I leave the boat in gear and run to the bow and lean over to secure the strap and chain. I run back after securing and return to neutral as I noted above.

[video=youtube;cK3PamRXqO0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK3PamRXqO0&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[CliffA]

when I was trailering my previous boats I used tall PVC pipe guide poles on the trailer.....the taller poles will not hit the gelcoat of the boat...they hit the rub rail....I adjusted the poles to have a snug fit against the rub rail.....this set-up worked perfectly every time to center the boat on the bunks when retrieving the boat and did not leave any marks on the boat....

when I had the Chris Craft bow rider I took this one step further....I installed a second set of shorter guide poles on the front of the trailer.....then I could easily float the boat all the way up to the winch stand by having the bunks of the trailer fully submerged.... I only needed to use the winch to snug the bow eye against the bow roller....

cliff

 

[KHE]

Power loading is prohibited at all the ramps in my area. I may try the PVC guides - my Dad has them on hos boat trailer and at first, they were not long enough - hence the marks on the hull. Once they were extended, it wasn't an issue.

 

[Bt Doctur]

sell the bunk and get a roller trailer, a lot easier

 

[MonacoMike]

I also use the PVC trailer guides and they really help on windy days. As David mentioned, they don't make contact with the boat ... just loose enough to keep the boat in line.

As for cranking, is your ramp too shallow too drive it on all they to the winch stand? I do as you mentioned, I back in and leave about 6" of the bunks out of the water then drive the boat onto the trailer with the drive trimmed up some (how much trim depends on your boat/ramp situation). When I'm centered on the bunks I apply enough throttle to push me all the way up to the winch then I can run to the bow and lean over to attach the strap and safety chain. Once the boat is secure (takes 5 seconds) I move the throttle back to neutral, turn off the engine and trim the drive to trailering position.

Here are the trailer guides that I use:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F3D16E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01

And here's our own Dennis (aka Lazy Daze) showing how to power load your boat on a trailer. The boat in this video is similar in size to mine and this is exactly how I do it. If I'm solo I do everything the same except I leave the boat in gear and run to the bow and lean over to secure the strap and chain. I run back after securing and return to neutral as I noted above.

[video=youtube;cK3PamRXqO0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK3PamRXqO0&feature=youtu.be[/video]

I'm not certain exactly where the OP launches but in western Michigan POWER LOADING IS PROHIBITED. They will ticket you if caught. Every time this comes up here it is met with incredulity but is a fact we must deal with. Simply put the launches are built on sandy soil and prop action in the water washes the support from under the concrete pad.

I personally prefer it that way, glide up to the dock, tie it to dock, shut the engine down and prep the boat to load until trailer arrives, pull the boat up as far as you can with the lines, put on winch strap and winch it on the trailer. When loading the 270 this way I too have load guides but the Admiral positions the exact center with the stern line as I pull up the ramp.

MM

 

[bbwhitejr]

Cliff did not mention one thing that he told me a year ago is to make sure the PVC pipes will turn as they contact the boat. Mine had rivets in them that prevented them from "rolling" as the boat moves on/off the trailer. Once I drilled out and removed the rivets, no more marking.

My my wife backs the trailer in. I get the boat centered and have her back it down another 4-6 feet and I push it up to within 2-3 feet of the roller. I am working on pushing it all of the way up.

Bennett

 

[KHE]

sell the bunk and get a roller trailer, a lot easier

I was waiting for this one...LOL. I would love a roller trailer but my current trailer is custom to the boat and the odds of finding someone with a '96-'99 240 DA that needs a trailer are pretty slim and if he reads this thread, he'll just look for a roller trailer...LOL.

I'm not certain exactly where the OP launches but in western Michigan POWER LOADING IS PROHIBITED. They will ticket you if caught. Every time this comes up here it is met with incredulity but is a fact we must deal with. Simply put the launches are built on sandy soil and prop action in the water washes the support from under the concrete pad.
MM

Correct. It's OK for the sheriff to power load despite the signs that state otherwise - they're always lurking about and they wouldn't hesitate to write a ticket for power loading - even after power loading their patrol boat.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Since you can't power load, adding the long PVC poles (correctly mentioned above that they should ride against the rubrail, which will cause no damage) and a power winch will make things a snap. Powerwinch makes good products - I have plenty of experience with them and they've been very reliable. I have no experience with that wireless one, although I'm sure the 'guts' of the unit are the same - it's the switch that's different.

Ah, the launching video! I bet that things is almost 10 years old, now!

For those that can't power load... Are you still allowed to drive onto the trailer at idle RPM? I've been to ramps ("soft" ramps, as mentioned above) that don't allow power loading, but you're still allowed to use minimal throttle.

The reason I ask is that there's another way to do this without the added expense of the powerwinch. Get the poles, though. Idle onto the trailer and hook the (manual) winch up. Crank it in till it starts to get hard, then back the trailer into the water another foot or two and crank again. Repeat until you're all the way up. The poles will keep the stern centered (which will be floating by now) while you slowly pull out. Of course, this takes a little more time, though. Now, if you do pull out and the boat is a bit crooked (it won't be by much, if it is), put your stern straps on, but only tighten the high side. Leave the other side a little loose. As you drive, the boat will settle in and after a short time you can just pull over and re-adjust the straps.

 

[dpmulvey]

Spray the bunks with store brand PAM. Much cheaper than any product made to make the bunks slick and you get the exact same results.

Consider attaching the bow eye hook to a pully. Run the cable through the pully and back to the winch stanchion. Secure the cable to a stainless eye bolt. It will take a bit longer to winch it on but the effort will be cut by 1/2.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Oh, David's post about PAM reminded me... The trailer under my 260DA was originally a roller trailer. I converted it to a bunk trailer because I generally like the bunks better. After about a year, I also replaced the carpet with bunk slicks (basically, plastic "caps" that fit over the wood). They made the boat slide on and off almost like it was a roller trailer - they really are "slick" and make loading/unloading/cranking easier. Huge improvement.

 

[davidh82]

Now, if you do pull out and the boat is a bit crooked (it won't be by much, if it is), put your stern straps on, but only tighten the high side. Leave the other side a little loose. As you drive, the boat will settle in and after a short time you can just pull over and re-adjust the straps.

Great idea!! I'll have to try this next time I'm just a tad off.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Great idea!! I'll have to try this next time I'm just a tad off.

I've been doing this trick since I was a kid (my grandfather showed me). The boat "wants" to be level and the natural bumps and vibration of the trailer going down the road help it get there - gravity works! In most cases, it usually centers itself out pretty quickly.

 

[KHE]

Thanks for all the information. I think I am going to purchase some pole guide-ons and stay with the manual winch.

I am not sure if the sheriff would consider idling onto the trailer power loading or not. It would probably depend on their mood for the day...

 

[Tonka Boater]

Maybe consider ordering some MaryKate bunk board lubricant in addition to the PVC guides...worth a shot for only $15.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[FootballFan]

Have never loaded a SR 240 on a trailer - so keep my input compartmentalized. Take it for what its worth.

I did have a Yamaha jet boat that I trailered for several years. - that's what my comments are based on.

If you are always on the same ramp - then you can structure everything around that ramp. If you find your self at a different ramp - then all bets can be off. My experience was different ramps had different slopes - which meant adjustments had to be made.

Loading a 4,000 pound boat on bunks with a winch is always going to be a challenge. You already know the trade offs of floating versus staying aligned.

I would have a concern about going to a more powerful winch unless I know the stanchion that the winch was sitting on could handle that type of load. Was the stanchion designed for a roller trailer or a bunk trailer.

When I bought my boat, the instructions from the dealer were to power load it. The winch would not even budge the boat if it had any weight on the bunks. The winch was used to tighten down the boat, I drove it up to the bow went into the rubber bow holder. When the wife was backing the trailer in - I would decide how much of the bunks to leave out of the water - then line up and go. I admit - was not something I relished - so many things could go wrong. Probably why they do not allow power loading.

Have you thought about going back to rollers - maybe to carry some of the weight?

Just some thoughts - may or may not be helpful.

Mark

 

[Blueone]

The last time I loaded was at a unfamiliar ramp and was very steep. That put the pvc guides well below the rub rail where they typically are. With the boat resting against the guides and waves moving the boat up and down... The result was the top edge of the guide post peeled a vertical strip out of the stripe on the side of the boat. So a cap or something to protect the side would be a good idea in case you get in a similar situation

 

[Tonka Boater]

The last time I loaded was at a unfamiliar ramp and was very steep. That put the pvc guides well below the rub rail where they typically are. With the boat resting against the guides and waves moving the boat up and down... The result was the top edge of the guide post peeled a vertical strip out of the stripe on the side of the boat. So a cap or something to protect the side would be a good idea in case you get in a similar situation

Same thing happened to me about a month ago except the top of the pole got caught under the lip of the rub rail and tore a 5" gash in my gelcoat under the rub rail. A nice $500 repair. My poles are usually 1' above my rub rail when I load but this time I was at a steeper ramp...oh well, all a part of boating and learning.

 

[dpmulvey]

Maybe consider ordering some MaryKate bunk board lubricant in addition to the PVC guides...worth a shot for only $15.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's PAM on steroids. Oil and silicone are the primary ingredients.

Sixty cents per ounce vs. a buck fifty nine per ounce. Folks I know that use PAM use a spritz on each bunk before every retreival. I don't know of anyone who uses the CRC product. That said I can't say which will last longer bringing the actual cost per use into play. One fellow said he used both and there was no difference in how much easier both products made getting the boat on the trailer. He said he used the PAM primarily because of the lack of chemicals to leech into the rivers.