Caterpillar 3116/3126 engine oil availability

SKybolt said:
Run the BB backwards to the raw water flow. So in at the shower head and out at the raw water pump. And yes crimp off the dripless. But you need to pull the zincs! You can pull the brass plugs and unscrew the zinc from it and replace while running the BB.
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Where is the shower head? Pics?
 
I’ve been using Performance Metals anodes, since I bought the boat. They have a rodded core that keeps them connected to the cap. I haven’t had to fish out a broken anode yet.

Leave them in, or pull them out, this has reduced the frustration with changing anodes.
 
Dani-Lu said:
Where is the shower head? Pics?
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The shower head is where the raw water is mixed into the exhaust, where the exhaust hose is attached to the exhaust elbow. There will be an 1-1/2 or so sized water hose Y'd into the elbow. Sorry I don't have any pic's. but the exhaust elbow leads off of the turbo and rises up right at that juncture is where the shower head is. It's called a shower head because when off and looked at from the outlet side it resembles a shower head.
 
dtfeld said:
I’ve been using Performance Metals anodes, since I bought the boat. They have a rodded core that keeps them connected to the cap. I haven’t had to fish out a broken anode yet.

Leave them in, or pull them out, this has reduced the frustration with changing anodes.

View attachment 121722
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Nice Dave, Those won't get caught or break off for sure, didn't know they existed. Thanks for posting.
 
SKybolt said:
The shower head is where the raw water is mixed into the exhaust, where the exhaust hose is attached to the exhaust elbow. There will be an 1-1/2 or so sized water hose Y'd into the elbow. Sorry I don't have any pic's. but the exhaust elbow leads off of the turbo and rises up right at that juncture is where the shower head is. It's called a shower head because when off and looked at from the outlet side it resembles a shower head.
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Thanks, I will try to look for it today. I need to figure out what size adapter hoses I will need to circulate the barnacle buster. I made a set up for my AC, but will need to get the proper hoses or couplers to attach to engine.
 
Dani-Lu said:
Thanks, I will try to look for it today. I need to figure out what size adapter hoses I will need to circulate the barnacle buster. I made a set up for my AC, but will need to get the proper hoses or couplers to attach to engine.
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I have had good luck going to a home depot and using PVC fittings as adapters. Usually the reducers will work, might need to use some duct tape to match the exact hose size if it's exactly the right fit.
 
The Bill Collector said:
Ben there done that, I'm not telling anyone to do what I do... 15 years of ownership and I am happy with my results, so do whatever you want.
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Your boat is probably bonded correctly and with proper maintenance on the engines. So your zincs technically aren't doing much. That's not the case for most people. My zincs aren't doing much either, when I replace them they are pretty much like new, but I replace them yearly anyway.
 
@fwebster and others. Sorry for the thread diversion, this should have been it's own thread.
 
SKybolt said:
Nice Dave, Those won't get caught or break off for sure, didn't know they existed. Thanks for posting.
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These are aluminum alloy, supposed to offer better protection and life to boot. also work in any water...fresh, salt or brackish.

I cant take credit for these @carterchapman turned me on to this company.
 
dtfeld said:
I’ve been using Performance Metals anodes, since I bought the boat. They have a rodded core that keeps them connected to the cap. I haven’t had to fish out a broken anode yet.

Leave them in, or pull them out, this has reduced the frustration with changing anodes.
Click to expand...

Same here on our current 420DA and on previous 44DB. Love the Navalloy Anodes from Performance Metals.

Bennett
 
My dealer has the DEO in stock, in both regular and ultra low sulfur, I'm leaning towards the ULS option. Any harm in that?
 
SKybolt said:
Your boat is probably bonded correctly and with proper maintenance on the engines. So your zincs technically aren't doing much. That's not the case for most people. My zincs aren't doing much either, when I replace them they are pretty much like new, but I replace them yearly anyway.
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Woah there - if you are not consuming the anodes you have bigger problems. New thread....
 
does SEBU6250-30 superseed SEBU6250-29? I couldn't find a copy of 29, but 30 from 2020 says to still use SAEO 30 and/or single grade API CF oil for 3116/3126 Marine.

SEBU6250-30: https://caterpillar.scene7.com/is/content/Caterpillar/CM20210119-674b3-bd997


fwebster said:
Last week I took several oil samples by the Caterpillar store in Nashville TN. as I use Cat's SOS program for all of my oil samples. I happened to run to run into a Fluids Specialist in their fluids lab and asked about the current lube oil recommendation for the 3100 series marine engines. Here is what I learned:

Yes, SAEO originally formulated for the 3100 series marine engines because of after cooler fouling has been discontinued. The newest Fluids Recommendation publication SEBU6250-29 shows that SAEO may still be available for certain special applications like low speed generators, but marine engines are not in that list.

Cat has done extensive testing and now say that the additives currently used in multi-viscosity diesel oils are much improved and no longer pose an after cooler fouling risk for 3116's or 3126's.

Catetrpillar's current recommendation is to use Cat DEO (diesel engine oil) multiviscosity oil in the appropriate viscosity for your location but for most of us that will be 15W-40. Exxon Mobile is apparently Cat's supplier and they say you can order DEO from Exxon-Mobile: however, this comes from a Caterpillar internal dealer's IRM (Information Release Memo, # IRM: PELJ2736) so ordering DEO from Exxon-Mobile may be directed towards Cat dealers and not end users.

Caterpillar regularly updates their Fluid Recommendation publication # SEBU6250 but it lags the actual changes because it is a long document covering their whole product line that must be re-written. SEBU6250-28, is the last one I can find online and it isn't current with respect to 3116/3126 marine engines. The Fluids guy in Nashville had a copy of SEBU6250-29 and it had the above changes in it.

Caterpillar does not speak for Shell Oil but the guys at the Cat store in Nashville have a lot of customers who are having problems sourcing Rotella T-1 single viscosity lubricants. They say the problem is that Shell cannot get the additives required to produce SAE 30, SAE40, etc. and it may be an extended period of time before they are plentiful at reasonable prices in the retail market again.

So, …...relax. Caterpillar now approves multi-viscosity oils for 3116's and 3126's and we can get 15W-40 in both synthetic and non-synthetic lube oil from any number of sources.
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Mobil is the packager for Caterpillar brand oils. I asked my Caterpillar dealer what to use and he admitted they cannot even get SAEO any longer and recommened Mobil Delvac 1630 (SAE-30) or 1640 (SAE-40) if you want to stay with single viscosity oil or Cat DEO 15W-40 , Rotella T4 15W-40 or Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40. Note that these recommendation came for the Lube Oil Specialist at a large Caterpilar dealer and Cat no longer advises 3116/3126 owners to avoid multiviscosityt oils sine current additive packages do not tend to foul after-coolers the way earlier additives did.

They are of the opinion that Shell will no longer make Rotella T1 SAE-30 or 40 after the current inventories are depleted. SAE-40 is hard to find in the deep south now. It is only rated API CF or CF-2 in its current formulation anyway. So, apparently after the oil you have on hand is used up, you will probably be facing an oil change if you stay with Caterpillar's recommendations.

The Caterpillar guys were quick tp point out that their DEO 15W-40 is a lot cheaper than commercially available oils. They were selling 1 gal jugs of Cat DEO 15W-40 for $13.95 and Auto Zone was getting $26.99 for i gal jugs of Rotella T4 15W-40 the same day.
 
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$26.99/gallon

that's $6.75 a quart.......

Just let that sink in to your thought processes for a moment.

RWS
 
fwebster said:
Mobil is the packager for Caterpillar brand oils. I asked my Caterpillar dealer what to use and he admitted they cannot even get SAEO any longer and recommened Mobil Delvac 1630 (SAE-30) or 1640 (SAE-40) if you want to stay with single viscosity oil or Cat DEO 15W-40 , Rotella T4 15W-40 or Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40. Note that these recommendation came for the Lube Oil Specialist at a large Caterpilar dealer and Cat no longer advises 3116/3126 owners to avoid multiviscosityt oils sine current additive packages do not tend to foul after-coolers the way earlier additives did.

They are of the opinion that Shell will no longer make Rotella T1 SAE-30 or 40 after the current inventories are depleted. SAE-40 is hard to find in the deep south now. It is only rated API CF or CF-2 in its current formulation anyway. So, apparently after the oil you have on hand is used up, you will probably be facing an oil change if you stay with Caterpillar's recommendations.

The Caterpillar guys were quick tp point out that their DEO 15W-40 is a lot cheaper than commercially available oils. They were selling 1 gal jugs of Cat DEO 15W-40 for $13.95 and Auto Zone was getting $26.99 for i gal jugs of Rotella T4 15W-40 the same day.
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Frank

What would you recommended for Long island New York. 10-30 or 10-40
I usually stay in till beginning of November??

thanks
 
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