Can I vent???

270win said:
I picked it up this morning. It starts, idles and runs great...until I hit WOT. Then it bogs, I can work it up to 4400rpm but that's it and it's not as strong as it was before the rebuild. He said to bring it back next week and he's going to replace the plugs and verify the timing. He thinks it's most likely got a fowled plug or two from the carb dumping so much fuel before.

I think we're on the right track now. It was nice to have it idle and start the way it's supposed to.
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Good....so next week we find out if alls OK....:thumbsup:
 
Yeah, I'll use it this weekend and then take it to him Monday. Hopefully it'll be right then.
 
I haven't had the chance to meet him yet, I've been really slammed with business this week...gotta make that happen Monday.
 
270win said:
I haven't had the chance to meet him yet, I've been really slammed with business this week...gotta make that happen Monday.
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keep us posted :smt001
 
Replace the plug wires (if you haven't already) while you're at it.
Good Luck.
 
I got my freshly-rebuilt Weber out this weekend. At a relaxed pace, it took about 5 minutes to set the idle speed and dial in the idle mixture. The engine purrs at idle. I needed a couple full-throttle strokes to prime the accelerator pumps. After that, the engine runs like it is new.

There are no external adjustments other than idle speed and idle mixture. If it is idling well, there are no adjustments for anything in the power band. How old are the plugs, distributor cap, and ignition wires? Is the fuel fresh? Fuel filter age? Your problem is probably not the carburetor, unless the rebuild was seriously botched.
 
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Nehalennia said:
Replace the plug wires (if you haven't already) while you're at it.
Good Luck.
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The wires were new in February.

springer3 said:
I got my freshly-rebuilt Weber out this weekend. At a relaxed pace, it took about 5 minutes to set the idle speed and dial in the idle mixture. The engine purrs at idle. I needed a couple full-throttle strokes to prime the accelerator pumps. After that, the engine runs like it is new.

There are no external adjustments other than idle speed and idle mixture. If it is idling well, there are no adjustments for anything in the power band. How old are the plugs, distributor cap, and ignition wires? Is the fuel fresh? Fuel filter age? Your problem is probably not the carburetor, unless the rebuild was seriously botched.
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The plugs, cap and wires are new. But the mechanic wants to replace them because of the way the carb was dumping too much fuel stalling the engine. The fuel is what was put in to top it off before winter along with fuel stabilizer. The filter is new too.

It didn't do this prior to overhauling the carb. Last year it was difficult to start after the engine was warm...had to do a flooded start every time once it was warm. But other than that it ran perfectly.
 
The cap and wires are not affected by carburetor flooding. New plugs might need a cleaning, but if the carburetor is fixed, even dirty plugs will clean up after an Italian tune up (a sustained WOT run). Why is he replacing new parts?
 
I didn't ask, he said he suspected a fouled plug or plugs. I seriously doubt I'll have time to go there this week too now.
 
Okay, so I still have not been able to connect with thye mechanic...at this point, IMO, he should have gone to my marina (15 minutes drive) to make the boat right. I contacted a new mechanic today that a fellow CSR member recommended. He's going to price a new carb and tune up. We're taking the boat to Mexico Beach in 6 weeks and it needs to be right...I'm tired of waiting for the other mechanic and I'm running out of time before our trip. I'd like to run it fairly extensively before we tow it 350 miles to the beach. If I don't trust it there's no p;oint in taking it...

Yes, it's more expensive this way and no, I'll probably not get anything back from the other guy. But the peace of mind will be worth the added costs.
 
Update-
I've been insanely busy with business...hence the delays. After taking the boat back to Gerald's marine it still ran like crap. He decided that some of them just run that way...

So, I called a mechanic that a fellow CSR member recommended. He brought out a rebuilt carb. Installed and adjusted the secondaries and now the boat runs like new. Pretty simple, now my only issue is what to do with this crappy Rochester I have sitting in my shop. I'm probably going to start with a certified letter to Gerald letting him know I expect him to buy this carb back for what I paid him to rebuild it.

The good news is, my boat is reliable again!!!!
 
270win said:
Update-
I've been insanely busy with business...hence the delays. After taking the boat back to Gerald's marine it still ran like crap. He decided that some of them just run that way...

So, I called a mechanic that a fellow CSR member recommended. He brought out a rebuilt carb. Installed and adjusted the secondaries and now the boat runs like new. Pretty simple, now my only issue is what to do with this crappy Rochester I have sitting in my shop. I'm probably going to start with a certified letter to Gerald letting him know I expect him to buy this carb back for what I paid him to rebuild it.

The good news is, my boat is reliable again!!!!
Click to expand...


Very happy to here it......:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I have rebuilt many a Qjets. They either come out right or they don't. If you mess with the metering rods inside and get them out of wack then throw the thing away and start over with new, On the front of the carb are 2 small jet adjustments. Scew them in one at a time until you hear the engine start to idle rough then back them out one and a half turns, that's it the only adjustment on them other than the idle RPM setting screw. The metering rods will make the engine run rough at low idle and not deliver enough fuel at WOT. (Your problem). The only way to properly set a boat engine is to splash it. The water acts as back pressure on the exhaust and you need that to adjust idle and timing properly. Otherwise it's kind of like adjusting a car engine with no exhaust system. Sorry I didn't catch your post sooner. Hind sight is always 20-20 and I hate that I could not help.
 
I agree with oldskool, either they come out good-or bad.I have posted this before. I got the holley Qjet replascements last year on ebay. Best thing i could of done. Runs smoother and is a little...just a little better on gas.

Rick
 
I've heard the same thing, either you have a good one or a bad one. The only other adjustment you can make is when the secondaries open or how quickly they open. Also, my choke rod was out of adjustment and holding the choke closed even after warm up, this made it idle really bad and load up.
 
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