Can I revive this Norcold?

B

bbwhitejr

Well-Known Member
Apr 14, 2013
4,306
Lake Lanier GA
Boat Info
2003 420DA, 6CTAs
Engines
NA
Compressor runs 2-3 seconds and drops out for 2-3 seconds and pulls in again for 2-3 seconds and repeats this over and over. During the 2-3 second run time, the light dims significantly.

Norcold DE061 I think.

Time to replace?

Thanks,
Bennett
 
I'ld be looking at what cabinetry needed disasimbleing in order to swap it out.
Last Norcool I had was on a 400DA. The repair guy said he could fix this and that but the unit would have to be pulled to the center of the salon. I figured if I got it that far just keep on shoving it out the door. :)
 
Taking it in and out is easy. 4-screws and pull it out. Don’t want to dump much into it though.

Bennett
 
Norcold is famous for obsoleting and no longer supporting key parts for their products. Before making this decision, try to figure out what parts you need and if they are still available.
 
Try this unplug the unit .
Connect 12 volts direct to the compressor where you see to blade type connectors with feed coming from control board .
If it runs but nonstop you dont have a problem fixing it.it is likely the thermistor..
I made s post in here last year where I described fixing mine with a rheostat and switch mounted into the little control box . The little board that's mounted inside the control box was fried . You could get lucky and clean the board with alcohol to remove gummed up dirt coating on that little board and have a free fix or get lucky and find a replacement control box . They are not made anymore so that is why I had to make my own
 
I had the same issue on a 2005 260. Pulled it (EZ) and gave it to a marine refrigerant guy because there were no new units that’d fit in my opening. The galley sink interfered.

Our cooling unit was FUBAR and no longer available. He had another unit with a bad controller and made one outta the two.
 
Seapig said:
I had the same issue on a 2005 260. Pulled it (EZ) and gave it to a marine refrigerant guy because there were no new units that’d fit in my opening. The galley sink interfered.

Our cooling unit was FUBAR and no longer available. He had another unit with a bad controller and made one outta the two.
Click to expand...
Good move. I would suggest to take it to an r v refrigeration guy and never say the word boat to Save money
 
When I changed units on my 400DA I had to take the stairs and refrigerator in closure apart. Also had to dismantle most of the frig getting it out as well the one going in.

Loads of fun
 
Sounds like the compressor is locked up. The compressor is trying to start , when it doesn't the overload opens to release the load. ( hence the light dimming and then getting brighter ) A hard start kit openly avail could help.... Also look for a burned wire. anyting past this … shes done ..sorry

Rob
 
Robski97 said:
Sounds like the compressor is locked up. The compressor is trying to start , when it doesn't the overload opens to release the load. ( hence the light dimming and then getting brighter ) A hard start kit openly avail could help.... Also look for a burned wire. anyting past this … shes done ..sorry

Rob
Click to expand...

Planning to try both suggestions above this weekend. Past that, a new one will be had. At least it should not be difficult to swap out....

Bennett
 
Robski97 said:
Sounds like the compressor is locked up. The compressor is trying to start , when it doesn't the overload opens to release the load. ( hence the light dimming and then getting brighter ) A hard start kit openly avail could help.... Also look for a burned wire. anyting past this … shes done ..sorry

Rob
Click to expand...
Yep, I’ve worked in the refrigeration industry for many years and Rob is right. She’s a goner. A hard start might work but unlikely.
 
OK. I have 13 volts coming into the power/control board and 9.32 volts going to the compressor measured at the compressor.

Mine is the DE0061.

What is this telling me if anything?

Thanks
 
I would think voltage loss due to dirty control board . Mine had a lot of dust and dirt on and a gummy film under that. I would dismount the control board and blast it off with compressed air followed by alcohol wash with a soft toothbrush and more air.these fridges will work better @ 24v. So you could always use a converter on that circuit to up the voltage as well.if you manage to get it running. There is another circuit board insite the thermistor housing that can be accessed and cleaned
 
Board is perfectly clean. Another issue...how many volts should be coming from the 110v control board to the 12v control board. We are reading 43.9v.

Hooking 12v directly to the compressor...the compressor “feels” like it tries to start, but does not.

Bennett
 
techmitch said:
You should be getting a full 110v+ ac coming from the main panel and a full 12v+ dc to the compressor. Start at the source.
Click to expand...

I have 110v+ coming into the 110v power board, but only 43.9v leaving the 110v power board to the 12DC board. Only 11.22v to the compressor. When I hook up straight 12v to the compressor it will not run. I think there may be a start capacitor on the 12v power board that may be bad.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
I have 110v+ coming into the 110v power board, but only 43.9v leaving the 110v power board to the 12DC board. Only 11.22v to the compressor. When I hook up straight 12v to the compressor it will not run. I think there may be a start capacitor on the 12v power board that may be bad.

Bennett
Click to expand...

Seems the 43.9 is the problem but not sure. Is the "12v dc board" you refer to also the ac/dc converter for the fridge?
 
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