Camper top bars

[Hoyamom]

:smt100 Husband and I would like to purchase a camper top to go on our new 2009 330. We were wondering if we are supposed to keep the bars up or is it possible to take them off when we aren't using the camper top. We don't like the look of the bar running across the backend of the boat.
This is our first boat so we aren't sure if the bars come down or stay up all season.
Thanks.

 

[FireIsland1]

often the supports would stay in place. if you have the top custom made with your problem in mind, the top could be made so that the bars go forward and lace to the arch. they may not be so noticable. if you remove the bars you have a srorage problem. they will be about 10' wide and difficult to deal with.

 

[Alex F]

Congrads on becoming a Sea Ray family member. Even though it's a matter of prefference, I'm sure sooner or later you'll realize that it's a pain to get it on and off all the time. Also, where will you keep the bimini bars when they're off? 320DA is our 2nd boat with full camper and we never take our camper down until it's time to put the boat on stands for winter storage. So, I suggest come up with design that makes the boat look good enough for you and plan on using the camper all season long.

Just my .02c.

 

[katricol]

If you have the camper custom made,you could have the supports made so they come apart in the middle to make them easier to store

 

[sb in gp]

:smt100 Husband and I would like to purchase a camper top to go on our new 2009 330. We were wondering if we are supposed to keep the bars up or is it possible to take them off when we aren't using the camper top. We don't like the look of the bar running across the backend of the boat.
This is our first boat so we aren't sure if the bars come down or stay up all season.
Thanks.

We had a custom top made last year (http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?p=202278#post202278) and I agree with Alex, taking them off on a wide-beam boat is going to be challenging and not something I'd want to do often. I'd be interested to see a design where they could be tied forward somehow, hard to imagine how this would work without seeing a pic.

I think this is one of those tradeoffs where if you go with a camper you are buying additional covered space at the cost of the open look native to the boat. Changes the look, but not necessarily in a bad way.

We never take our top down, and we don't even roll the top back (even though we can). We just remove the sides/back and store under the deck seats when using the boat, and I can do that in about 10 minutes.

I would do mine again in a minute. Love the additional covered space. Especially if you are staying on the boat overnight.

 

[Alex F]

Here's a closer look at my camper. As you could see things are tight and it's an effort to have it installed in the first place. If you have naver been on a boat with a full camper try to get on one so you can have a feeling from inside. After having the camper on 240DA we knew that we wouln't give up this feature with 320DA either, so wwhen we saw this boat the camper wasa huge plus. It adds so much comfort and extra room all season long. Besides the rain it also keeps us covered from the sun. So, I deal with the installation only twice a year (start of season and end of season). A good design of the camper is the key. The camper on our has very good design where every curtain rolls up. This allows us to have plenty ventilation during hot summer days.

 

[sb in gp]

Here's a closer look at my camper. As you could see things are tight and it's an effort to have it installed in the first place. If you have naver been on a boat with a full camper try to get on one so you can have a feeling from inside. After having the camper on 240DA we knew that we wouln't give up this feature with 320DA either, so wwhen we saw this boat the camper wasa huge plus. It adds so much comfort and extra room all season long. Besides the rain it also keeps us covered from the sun. So, I deal with the installation only twice a year (start of season and end of season). A good design of the camper is the key. The camper on our has very good design where every curtain rolls up. This allows us to have plenty ventilation during hot summer days.

Mine is similar in design to Alex's. Mine does not have integrated screens. My screens are separate zip-in components. More to store, but better clarity with the glass up.

I did Stratglass all the way around, except for the 3 pieces over the windshield, which are Makrolon.

 

[Hampton]

Mine is similar in design to Alex's. Mine does not have integrated screens. My screens are separate zip-in components. More to store, but better clarity with the glass up.

I did Stratglass all the way around, except for the 3 pieces over the windshield, which are Makrolon.

Where'd you get that idea?

For the OP: You can have your custom camper designed to allow for a variety of different running options.

You can do it like Frank W's where it is cantelevered off of the arch to allow the maximum amount of open view when the glass is taken out. The length of such a top is limited due to the lack of support in the back. Frank overcame this by inserting an extra pole that can be removed when the glass is out. In this design, the top usually remains up for years - it's not really a convertible design.

You can design the aft bimini support structure so that it collapses back like a seperate arch - my 250 was that way.

You can design the aft support to collapse forward as mentioned above. The problem with this design is that it's not very likely to allow access to the sides, but if you have a walk-through windshield, that may not matter. The primary support pole would be mounted at the base of the arch and the shape would mimick the arch. When leaned back, additional support rods could be inserted. The canvas would roll up with a cover as it was leaned forward against the arch. This may be what you want.

We went with a design that leaves the entire top in place all of the time. It is designed to follow the lines of the arch with the back window sloping down to blend with the angle of the transom. In hindsight, I would make it all out of Makrolon except the two middle side pieces that we always roll up and the back corner pieces that we always roll up.

All of the others are left alone (forward side triangular pieces are never removed - furthest aft side pieces are never removed). I would swing the back, center piece up and in and secure it to the top to open up the back, just like I currently do with the front center makrolon piece. Strataglass is much better than eisenglass, but it looses its appearance if rolled up in large sections - it'll begin to look warped.

They have had production problems with Makrolon. Some batches are "crazing" over time and need to be replaced. I would just make sure to arrive at an arrangement with your vendor prior to writing the first check as to how this would be handled if it were to happen.

 

[sb in gp]

Where'd you get that idea?

Not sure what your point is. I'll assume you're just joking, and not trying to bust my ball$.

If you're looking for credit, then you got it! And thanks again for advice you provided back when I started to look into this.

Just trying to pass on the small amount I've learned.

 

[Hampton]

Not sure what your point is. I'll assume you're just joking, and not trying to bust my ball$.

Yes, Just Joking (aka bustin' your ball$), and looking for credit, all while wondering who was going to post that they taught me this before I passed it on here (FW, I think).