Camper cover
- Thread starter thomasbruck
- Start date
techmitch
Well-Known Member
- May 1, 2008
- 8,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 270 DA
- Engines
- Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
Please don't put that ugly fast back on your beautiful boat. Get the full camper canvas, (custom made if you have to) it will give you much more room and more shade.
I have never used the fastback but I have camper canvas on my older 340. We also have covers for all the vinyl. We love it. It stays on most of the time for the shade in the summer. We will take all the side curtains out in the summer and leave the tops on. Sometimes we will roll up the camper top and put the boot over it if the Admiral wants to get some sun.
In the winter here (60s in the day....40s at night) we put an extra heater in the cockpit and with all the vinyl up it gets very toastie in the evenings. It really extends the usable space on your boat.
In the winter here (60s in the day....40s at night) we put an extra heater in the cockpit and with all the vinyl up it gets very toastie in the evenings. It really extends the usable space on your boat.
Carpedmman
Member
I happen to have "one of those ugly Fast backs" on my boat and I LOVE IT! Sure it looks a bit like a VW Beetle made love to your Sundancer, but it is very functional. I like not having additional canvas attachments/poles if my canvas is not up, and the fact that I can put it up in less than 5 minutes by myself is a real bonus. This has been discussed before on here and location/heat in the summer is a concern by some people in Florida.
Good luck with your decision!
Uplate
New Member
- Oct 13, 2008
- 977
- Boat Info
- 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 310
Westebeke 4KW Generator
- Engines
- Twin 5.7 Mercruiser Carbuerated.
Alpha 1 Drives
MAKC
Member
- Oct 23, 2006
- 519
- Boat Info
- 1997 400 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillar
i love the look of the TaylorMade fastback. I think it looks sleek and is extremely functional. Without some sort of camper top, there's not enough shade. Let us know which one you decide to go with.
- Nov 26, 2006
- 7,628
- Boat Info
- 2008 44 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
I have a ton of experience with this. Get the camper canvas custom made. I recommend using Strataglass for the windows. Get very involved in the process. Don't trust the shop to know your wants/needs.
Mine is a big box on the back. We're getting it re-done. The limitation on the 340 is that the stbd side of the rear cockpit seating opens with the engine hatch. The supports have to stay outboard of that for about 3 feet up. Above that, I recommend a smooth arc to try to match the outline of the arch. Mine actually leans out a little, then makes a tight turn over the top - boxy.
Decide if you want one full-piece top. We have it that way - no regrets (no leaks). However, ours extends to the back of the cockpit, then drops straight down. We're getting it shortened to 10" less so that the rear window angles nicely to the transom, but doesn't interfere with people sitting in the back.
The shops like to make the first section behind the arch with a 90 degree angle on the top, back corner - picture a triangle attached to the back of the arch. The angle should not be 90 degrees. They start on the bench with a right angle, then shape the rest to fit the arch. The 90 degree angle makes the first vertical line lean back, opposite of the arch - this looks bad. The reason is that the top slopes down for water to run off. The angle should be about 110 degrees. This will make the first vertical line lean with the boat, not opposite.
The next piece needs to allow access out to the walk-around - on both sides. The final side piece extends to connect to the rear panels. Use three back panels as well. One, large, centered pane, and two matching side panels, the port one is made to match the doorway, the stbd is made to match the port.
What questions do you have?
Edit: All zippers need to be large, plastic, UV proof. All intersections need to be covered with a flap to avoid leaks. Don't accept any "Holes" that you can see through. When it rains, it comes down sideways. I recommend a 3" flap that is snapped down. For holding it down to the hull, I recommend the snaps that have a hole in the fitting on the canvas, and a 1/2 inch pole on the hull (whatever they are called). The fitting on the canvas needs a plastic backing which protects the canvas from the metal fitting (REQUIRED!).
Mine is a big box on the back. We're getting it re-done. The limitation on the 340 is that the stbd side of the rear cockpit seating opens with the engine hatch. The supports have to stay outboard of that for about 3 feet up. Above that, I recommend a smooth arc to try to match the outline of the arch. Mine actually leans out a little, then makes a tight turn over the top - boxy.
Decide if you want one full-piece top. We have it that way - no regrets (no leaks). However, ours extends to the back of the cockpit, then drops straight down. We're getting it shortened to 10" less so that the rear window angles nicely to the transom, but doesn't interfere with people sitting in the back.
The shops like to make the first section behind the arch with a 90 degree angle on the top, back corner - picture a triangle attached to the back of the arch. The angle should not be 90 degrees. They start on the bench with a right angle, then shape the rest to fit the arch. The 90 degree angle makes the first vertical line lean back, opposite of the arch - this looks bad. The reason is that the top slopes down for water to run off. The angle should be about 110 degrees. This will make the first vertical line lean with the boat, not opposite.
The next piece needs to allow access out to the walk-around - on both sides. The final side piece extends to connect to the rear panels. Use three back panels as well. One, large, centered pane, and two matching side panels, the port one is made to match the doorway, the stbd is made to match the port.
What questions do you have?
Edit: All zippers need to be large, plastic, UV proof. All intersections need to be covered with a flap to avoid leaks. Don't accept any "Holes" that you can see through. When it rains, it comes down sideways. I recommend a 3" flap that is snapped down. For holding it down to the hull, I recommend the snaps that have a hole in the fitting on the canvas, and a 1/2 inch pole on the hull (whatever they are called). The fitting on the canvas needs a plastic backing which protects the canvas from the metal fitting (REQUIRED!).
Last edited:
Novation
Member
- Oct 6, 2006
- 49
- Boat Info
- 340 Sundancer 2005; 2002 Boston Whaler Montauk
- Engines
- 8.1S
We have the Fastback and love it. I did not want any permanent camper hardware on the back gunnels and we only use it while at the dock at night (or running in inclement weather). We do not use it for additional shade at the dock or while running (we live in Michigan and want all the sun we can get for our short season!). I am neutral on the looks, but it is well engineered and is easy to put up and take down.
However, if you always want additional shade or will usually run with the camper top up, I suggest you go the "traditional" camper-top route -- I don't believe the Fastback is well suited for that type of use.
If you decide on the Fastback, be clear when ordering whether you have a regular bimini top or the "soft-top" (first available on the 340 in '06, I believe).
However, if you always want additional shade or will usually run with the camper top up, I suggest you go the "traditional" camper-top route -- I don't believe the Fastback is well suited for that type of use.
If you decide on the Fastback, be clear when ordering whether you have a regular bimini top or the "soft-top" (first available on the 340 in '06, I believe).
BON DIA
Member
- Oct 5, 2006
- 356
- Boat Info
- '05 340DA, C80 w/ 2KW Radar
- Engines
- 6.2s w/Vdrive
Hampton's advise is all good.
Our custom rear camper is a combination of a permanent rear bimini with seasonal side & rear curtains. Because of the engine hatch issues described by Hampton, our setup has the rear bimini legs attached as wide as possible & the side curtains snapping to the side of the hull outside of the legs. We can raise the engine hatch without having to do anything to the side curtains, only unfasten the rear curtain.
What we couldn't get the one & only local shop to do was build the side curtains as agreed & in the end they abandoned the job. We can not access the bow easily thru either side curtain; we have to unsnap & bottom & leading edge completely to get to the walkway.
Someday I'm going to find another shop to complete the side curtains as designed.
While the camper enclosure does make our boat more useful & enjoyable in the winter, while underway at below non-planing speeds we do get exhaust gases (CO) siphoned in to the cockpit if the rear curtain or door panel is not secured AND the forward windshield vent is closed. Be very careful.
Our custom rear camper is a combination of a permanent rear bimini with seasonal side & rear curtains. Because of the engine hatch issues described by Hampton, our setup has the rear bimini legs attached as wide as possible & the side curtains snapping to the side of the hull outside of the legs. We can raise the engine hatch without having to do anything to the side curtains, only unfasten the rear curtain.
What we couldn't get the one & only local shop to do was build the side curtains as agreed & in the end they abandoned the job. We can not access the bow easily thru either side curtain; we have to unsnap & bottom & leading edge completely to get to the walkway.
Someday I'm going to find another shop to complete the side curtains as designed.
While the camper enclosure does make our boat more useful & enjoyable in the winter, while underway at below non-planing speeds we do get exhaust gases (CO) siphoned in to the cockpit if the rear curtain or door panel is not secured AND the forward windshield vent is closed. Be very careful.
