Calling all 360 DA owners

Yes, I have had good success. Try different charcoal.
 
I think a lot of these filers new or home made fail as the minute they get wet game over. don't overfill your tank or this happens. If you cut yours open and find it wet...well there is why it stopped working. I see some in boats mounted too low and I think it actually gets water in them quicker. Keep it hight and away from the tank if possible.
 
Nothing worse than when rafted off with 10 other boats and some tiny bikini decides she needs to take a leak. She flushes and walks back top side and it smells like a fat trucker just finished taking a dump.....I change my filter at least once and sometimes twice a year. Activated charcoal from Pet Smart and refill it myself
 
jsed said:
Looking for plug wires for my 8.1's. Part # is 84-8M0117678. I'm seeing prices out there for around $490!! Is there an ACDelco equivalent, or another option?

Also, other than Amazon, where do you purchase your holding tank filter? These seem to go up every year as well. This year, $130 from the dealer. I see a couple of options on Amazon - $43 for a Voker filter, and $91-$99 for Dometic.
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I used Volvo Penta 3861295 wires. They are marine grade (so you don't get those people whining about auto parts) and are for the 8.1 and are MUCH cheaper than Mercruiser wires. I bought mine from Cecil Marine for less than $70 a set. They fit like OEM because they are OEM.

Oh, I also sawed my sanigard filter in half as well (a little off center, because the clamp went right on the centerline). Need to put something on each end so that the charcoal doesn't enter the vent line. (Cheap sponge or circle cutout of a scotch-brite pad.)
 
ocgrant said:
I think a lot of these filers new or home made fail as the minute they get wet game over. don't overfill your tank or this happens. If you cut yours open and find it wet...well there is why it stopped working. I see some in boats mounted too low and I think it actually gets water in them quicker. Keep it hight and away from the tank if possible.
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I will try a different charcoal. The charcoal I used was from a pet store, and used in fish tank filters. My filter does sit right on top of the tank. Not knowing how precise my tank gauges are, I generally pump out when it hits 1/2 full....and based on sight of the tank, it may be fairly accurate. There was a thread on here several years ago about refilling the filters, and I have been doing it since then, but was disappointed with the results...hopefully different charcoal will help.
 
SeadawgVB said:
I used Volvo Penta 3861295 wires. They are marine grade (so you don't get those people whining about auto parts) and are for the 8.1 and are MUCH cheaper than Mercruiser wires. I bought mine from Cecil Marine for less than $70 a set. They fit like OEM because they are OEM.

Oh, I also sawed my sanigard filter in half as well (a little off center, because the clamp went right on the centerline). Need to put something on each end so that the charcoal doesn't enter the vent line. (Cheap sponge or circle cutout of a scotch-brite pad.)
Click to expand...

I have about 600 hours on my 8.1L engines; would you recommend I replace the wires this spring? Most likely they have never been done.
Thanks
 
Decided to go with the Crusader plug wires. Will check the length of the wires first, to make sure they match what I have. One set is around $73. Volvo Penta's were around $100. Way cheaper then the Merc replacements!!!
Still TBD on cutting my vent filter. I appreciate the feedback though.

On another project, how do you remove the CD changer underneath the Clarion stereo unit at the AC panel? I pulled the stereo, and cannot figure out how to remove the changer?
 
I currently have Volvo wires in my 38 ($148 set) and then later picked up 4 sets of spare Mercruiser AC Delco wires from Michigan Motorz for circa $50 set IIRC.

At the time they were $825 set in Australia!

Ray340, yes I would change your plug wires. One of mine was arcing out against the exhaust manifold causing it to drop a cylinder when trying to get on the plane. At idle you couldn’t tell anything was amiss.
 
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Crusader RK120019...as I wait for this wire set to come in, anyone use these? I’ll have to check wire lengths to make sure they match.
just nervous using different parts than the normal “spec’d” version. Especially with the huge price difference!!
 
jsed said:
Decided to go with the Crusader plug wires. Will check the length of the wires first, to make sure they match what I have. One set is around $73. Volvo Penta's were around $100. Way cheaper then the Merc replacements!!!
Still TBD on cutting my vent filter. I appreciate the feedback though.

On another project, how do you remove the CD changer underneath the Clarion stereo unit at the AC panel? I pulled the stereo, and cannot figure out how to remove the changer?
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There are steel tabs (angle iron) that are screwed to the bottom of the shelf behind the bulkhead that the front of the CD player sticks out of. If you have the stereo head unit out, you will be able to access the four screws.
 
SeadawgVB said:
There are steel tabs (angle iron) that are screwed to the bottom of the shelf behind the bulkhead that the front of the CD player sticks out of. If you have the stereo head unit out, you will be able to access the four screws.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I’ll take a look again. I don’t recall seeing those the last time I was in there. You can only access it with the stereo removed, correct?
 
jsed said:
Thanks! I’ll take a look again. I don’t recall seeing those the last time I was in there. You can only access it with the stereo removed, correct?
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You might be able to reach past the head unit to get to the four screws with a fairly long screwdriver. It's just kind of difficult to reach, leaning through the breaker panel and being scraped by cut off zip ties!
 
I will check it out. The CD changer does not power on - at all. Not that I'll use it - we use bluetooth thru the jack at the helm most of the time. But I do not like it when things do not work.......
 
2003 360 with a port fuel sender issue. I had the marina look at it before we moved and they said the tank was not accessible so they just cleaned up some connectors. Problem still exists. Sometimes when we start up, the gauge works, other times (mostly) it doesn't. It is not the gauge as the physical gauge and the smart craft data on the MFD read the same. I have not really worried about it since I just double the STBD fuel reading and figure that is pretty close, so it is really more of an annoyance. I hate things that don't work though so am willing to trouble shoot if there are any ideas.
 
I am considering installing a Lithium 100 ah battery to be dedicated to the frig and freezer. Each device pulls 70 watts but I am not sure what the true duty cycle is when running in the summer. My rough plans:
  • Install Lithium battery and new dedicated charger on port top side of boat behind the furthest back cabinet; near sink location pretty large space there and easy access to 120v power source by ice maker. Engine compartment way too hot of a location for a Lithium battery.
  • Run dedicated 12v power circuit wires to the back of frig and freezer. This is done by running behind the bath sink and then to the kitchen sink area. Already ran the KVH Sat wires in same location last year.
  • Install a SOC (state of charge meter) to the Lithium so I know % of charge and can monitor amp draw. Currently use one in my RV; should buy two and monitor original battery bank
  • Hoping to be able to run both units for 24 to 48 hours and then re-charge with gen set
Looking for suggestions and comments. Anyone done something like this? Since it is dead of winter I cannot plug in a Kill A Watt energy usage meter to find out exact power consumption in a 24 hr time span.
 
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