Calling all 360 DA owners

Yes I have researched and tried these bulbs to ad nauseam. I think at this point I have found what will be a perfect solution for all fixtures. The reading lights by the bed and mid berth take a bi-pin I will have to check when I get to the boat. The large recessed fixture above the galley table is a side pin disc, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF65WW7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_34XCkgWbTpKgv, But there are many other options in side pin. All the puck lights are a back pin disc From IMTRA.com ILBPGA-21W-B and the bilge lights are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QY3J4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wkAoygki1QCi1. Everything works perfect.
 
Oil and filters have been changed. I plan on cleaning bilge pumps and sea strainers next week. I store indoors at Grand Isle. They do not allow corded buffers. I bought a Milwaukee battery buffer with extra batteries. Let the waxing begin.

Any recommendations on led replacement bulbs for the ceiling lights?

https://store.marinebeam.com/
 
I ordered replacement LED blue lights for the cockpit from Bulbtown. Part #LE-0603-02B 12V Blue LED Festoon Lamp. At the time, they were $4.89/ea. They fit perfectly, and work great.
Thanks for the info regarding the interior bulbs...
 
I guess most of the 360 owners are still hibernating. It’s tough owning the coolest boat on the lake......sigh
 
Can anyone tell me what the PORT Systems and STBD Systems on the AC panel are connected to? I have reviewed the manual and looked over the wiring diagrams but it doesn't show what I am powering when I turn those on.
 
I wish I knew.... Not trying to be a smart aleck. Any time I have ever hit them it has been both off. I typically leave both on all summer but click off things like water heater, AC, etc which I believe leaves things like fridge, freezer, battery charger etc on whenever I leave the boat for several days.
 
Well, I have been doing the same. I plan to replace the galvonic isolators this week so I will have the panel open and will try to see if they go anywhere.
 
I guess most of the 360 owners are still hibernating. It’s tough owning the coolest boat on the lake......sigh

Not Hibernating..... been busy. Replaced the starboard seawater pump (because the port-side became weak (even with a new impeller) and needed to be replaced this past summer). I needed to sand blast / paint the pulley and pump brackets before re-assembly.

Took delivery of four manifolds (swap out scheduled for this upcoming weekend). Purchased an oil cooler from Mr. Cool for the starboard motor (since the port side cooler started leaking early last season) and plan on replacing it proactively when the outboard manifold is out.

I also purchased two transmission oil coolers (also from Mr. Cool), since my thought process is if the engine oil cooler croaked, the transmission coolers are of the same age and a bad transmission cooler will KILL a transmission. Seems like cheap insurance.

I'm also planning on changing out the stainless risers. I've had a Mercury mechanic tell me that in saltwater they don't last forever, they begin to pit and corrode inside the water passage at the base and allow some seawater to drip into the exhaust manifold after shutdown. I don't know how true this is, I've only heard it from one mechanic who seems knowledgeable, but two risers cost much less that one engine or even replacement cylinder heads!
 
Can anyone tell me what the PORT Systems and STBD Systems on the AC panel are connected to? I have reviewed the manual and looked over the wiring diagrams but it doesn't show what I am powering when I turn those on.

Those breakers (as you may already know or have found out) control the AC receptacles. I don't know which disconnect what, but I also think it provides power to the ice maker (or fridge if yours has been swapped out like mine has) up in the cockpit.
 
I understood that while stainless risers can go bad over time, it makes sense to have them pressure tested. I did this last year while rebuilding my starboard 8.1s engine. I also replaced the transmission cooler.

I may be wrong but I believe the two main switches on the main distribution channel control the solenoids for the two 110vac. Clicking them off should isolate all AC systems. As for the 12vdc systems I’m not sure. I would like to install a couple of Nestle switches to completely shut off the 12vdc at the batteries
 
I'm interested if still available

I bought this cover earlier in the year. If you are not in a hurry, you are in luck. Hurricane Michael destroyed our bimini and we are in the process of having a new one made that includes a full enclosure. Once this is done, I will not have a need for this cover. Unfortunately, due to the Hurricane, the canvas shop is 3-4 months out so it will be May or June before I can let it go. Just direct message me if you are interested.
 
Those breakers (as you may already know or have found out) control the AC receptacles. I don't know which disconnect what, but I also think it provides power to the ice maker (or fridge if yours has been swapped out like mine has) up in the cockpit.

The more I was thinking about it, this is exactly what I thought! We are finishing up an install of an LCD TV in the spot above the sink tonight so I will verify this is what the switch does, but I am sure you are correct.

Edit: @SeadawgVB was exactly correct. Turned off the PORT systems switch and the TV and Glomax Antenna Amp both turned off. Mystery solved.
 
Last edited:
If you ever pull your fridge and climb under you will see that the fridge is actually plugged into a receptacle under the counter and is connected for some unknown reason to the GFI in the head.
 
Changed out cockpit lights with blue LEDs. These are cheap lights from Amazon. Bulbs were about $1.25 each. For the arch light size, only 4 of the eight in the packaged worked. But I only need 2 .... Not the best pic as the fog was thick tonight.
Blue LED.jpg
 
Nice glow!
Discovered somehow my water heater was switched on and my water was off. No hot water so if any of you have experienced this or remember a thread let me know.

I changed both engines oil and filter yesterday.
 
Nice glow!
Discovered somehow my water heater was switched on and my water was off. No hot water so if any of you have experienced this or remember a thread let me know.

I changed both engines oil and filter yesterday.

If the tank was empty and the breaker was on....... It may very well be toast. Those heating elements don't like to be run in air. Run water thru it to purge the air and turn the breaker on, but I'm thinking it may be done.
 
That was my thought. I’ve read about a reset on the unit. Keeping my fingers crossed. Do the tanks fill automatically when water is supplied?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,945
Messages
1,422,739
Members
60,928
Latest member
rkaleda
Back
Top