Calling all 360 DA owners

1. There is another screw in the closet on the back corner

2. Mine is DC only for some reason also, the Dc breaker needs to be on

3. It should come on with portside breaker and the DC breaker. There is a ground fault breaker in the head that is connect to that outlet. It may be tripped

Got to the boat today, found the third screw and tube TV gone, refrigerator is working on DC, so will just run it that way for now, ice make switch turned out to be recessed in a cutout in the vent panel below the door on the unit. All solved!
 
We went for years with no 360DA's in the marina and now there are 2. I know the owner of the black canvas one and he is just in for service. If yours is in covered slip #1, you certainly found a very nice one. I have the only 450DA under the covered slips. Stop by sometime..............
Stopped by your 450 today, and noticed you have installed the teak carpet. Looks really good and we want to do the same install, but have read some people having issues with it curling at the edges. Can you share what brand you put down, how long it has been installed and about what it ran.

Thanks..
 
Has anyone removed the Sea Ray System Monitor display? This is the two line LCD display just above the trim tabs. Ours doesn't work but I have heard this is often just a bad COAX. I tried Sea Ray support and they thought you had to remove the entire switch panel to access the screws on the bottom of the display, but they were not sure.

I don't want to spend too much time on this as I think everything but bilge alarms are displayed on the SmartCraft. Just trying to see if I can get it working with a simply cable swap out.
 
Has anyone removed the Sea Ray System Monitor display? This is the two line LCD display just above the trim tabs. Ours doesn't work but I have heard this is often just a bad COAX. I tried Sea Ray support and they thought you had to remove the entire switch panel to access the screws on the bottom of the display, but they were not sure.

I don't want to spend too much time on this as I think everything but bilge alarms are displayed on the SmartCraft. Just trying to see if I can get it working with a simply cable swap out.

Take a look at this "diagnostic procedure" on Flounder Pounder's website:
https://www.searay-parts.com/articles.asp?ID=239

A quick test to see if the system is working and it's only the display; Open the bilge cover in the salon in front of the head door. The "forward emergency bilge pump" is located just aft of the shower sump. Twist the knob on the emergency bilge pump float and listen for (a) the bilge pump to operate and (b) the alarm on the helm panel should also sound.
 
Stopped by your 450 today, and noticed you have installed the teak carpet. Looks really good and we want to do the same install, but have read some people having issues with it curling at the edges. Can you share what brand you put down, how long it has been installed and about what it ran.

Thanks..

We were out all day and got back to the marina about 4:00 ....sorry we missed you.

The teak deck isn't a carpet. It is SeaDeck which is an EVA foam material installed with PSA. Our boat was one of the first that the guys @ SeaDeck did in the marina. This is the 3rd season for it and I have had no problems whatsoever with the installation of the product. We are fortunate to have a licensed SeaDeck fabricator in town. Will @ Jetboat Pilot 850-960-3236 is the owner. Will has a scanning package on an iPad which allows him to come to the boat and scan each installation then go back to his drawing board and digitize the exact layout. They have a computer driven cutter that takes the digital output from the scan and cuts the actual floor panels. You can review the scan before installation if you wish, but Will knows what he is doing so you can have confidence in his work. He put photos of our installation on the seaDeck website:

http://www.seadek.com/blog/jetboat-pilot-seadeks-a-sea-ray-450/

We have an excellent set of cockpit carpets, but my wife took a pretty good tumble that culminated in shoulder surgery the year before we installed the SeaDeck. If for no other reason, the improved footing was reason enough for us to invest in SeaDeck, but we have also realized that the SeaDeck is a lot easier on your feet since it is soft. This isn't a big deal, but after a 10 hour run offshore, you grow to appreciate the difference in fatigue.

Cleaning is as simple as a deck brush and white wall tire cleaner. We have experience no curling on edges and corners, but this installation was done by a trained fabricator; not buy purchasing sheet goods and a DIY approach.

Cost is a difficult question. SeaDeck comes in something like 38" x 68" sheets. Your cost will depend upon how many sheets are needed and the amount of labor required to make the layout. Cutting the panels is automatic once the layout is determined. My installation was a bit over $3000 about 4 years ago. Since I was new to SeaDeck and Will, I went thru the marina because they always stand behind the work/projects they do. My boat is longer and wider than the 360DA ...the longest covered area was 14' and the beam is 14' so I'm pretty sure the cost for 360DA will be significantly less, but you just need to get a quote.

I'd do it again and when we wear this one out, we will have Will install the exact same product again.
 
Stopped by your 450 today, and noticed you have installed the teak carpet. Looks really good and we want to do the same install, but have read some people having issues with it curling at the edges. Can you share what brand you put down, how long it has been installed and about what it ran.

Thanks..
I've never posted here, but thought I'd chime in. I have Seadek on our 360 (only the swim platform -- two Pittsburgh boating seasons ago). We do not have an installer locally here, so I used their template kit, dry fit and eventually installed myself. It was SO easy, I wish I would have covered the entire boat with it--well, maybe if cost wasn't an issue? I have a big dog who skidded across the swim platform all the time, and I could NEVER keep it clean. This has been the perfect solution so far. I am very happy with it.

It still looks great after two summers. There are zero peeling edges. There may be a little fading but nothing too noticeable. I have noticed a couple of dog nail marks from where the kids tried to throw the dog in and he held on for dear life---but again nothing you can notice unless you get right down and inspect it. Walking down the dock, it looks as nice as the day I installed it.

Cost was $1100 in June '17. The process took quite a while, but mostly on my part because I didn't want to shovel snow to get to the boat while it was up on blocks in the dead of winter to test the dry fit.

I am a little worried about how to remove it once its ugly. But I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
 
I've never posted here, but thought I'd chime in. I have Seadek on our 360 (only the swim platform -- two Pittsburgh boating seasons ago). We do not have an installer locally here, so I used their template kit, dry fit and eventually installed myself. It was SO easy, I wish I would have covered the entire boat with it--well, maybe if cost wasn't an issue? I have a big dog who skidded across the swim platform all the time, and I could NEVER keep it clean. This has been the perfect solution so far. I am very happy with it.

It still looks great after two summers. There are zero peeling edges. There may be a little fading but nothing too noticeable. I have noticed a couple of dog nail marks from where the kids tried to throw the dog in and he held on for dear life---but again nothing you can notice unless you get right down and inspect it. Walking down the dock, it looks as nice as the day I installed it.

Cost was $1100 in June '17. The process took quite a while, but mostly on my part because I didn't want to shovel snow to get to the boat while it was up on blocks in the dead of winter to test the dry fit.

I am a little worried about how to remove it once its ugly. But I'll cross that bridge when I get there.


Welcome to Club Sea Ray
 
Take a look at this "diagnostic procedure" on Flounder Pounder's website:
https://www.searay-parts.com/articles.asp?ID=239

A quick test to see if the system is working and it's only the display; Open the bilge cover in the salon in front of the head door. The "forward emergency bilge pump" is located just aft of the shower sump. Twist the knob on the emergency bilge pump float and listen for (a) the bilge pump to operate and (b) the alarm on the helm panel should also sound.
@SeadawgVB thanks, for the bilge pump test. Sea Ray sent me the troubleshooting guide, just no instructions on how to remove the display. I tried step one and no joy so I need to remove the coax and thought I might be able to just pop the display out, but it looks like I am going to have to try to access it from the breaker panel access. I will be at the boat tomorrow and will test the system via the bilge pump to see if I have just a display problem.
 
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Welcome to Club Sea Ray
Thanks for the welcome! I've been reading everyone's amazing advice on here for a couple of years, just never actually posted anything.

Now that I got that first post out of the way....I have a question for everyone. I've done some searches on this subject, but haven't really come up with much. The track on the radar arch that holds the canvas (I believe its called the Valance Track) has stretched out. Now my canvas is pulling out in the corners on the back side. My marina canvas guy said it wears out and can be replaced for $700-800. Has anyone done this themselves? Do you have to replace the entire thing or can you replace sections? If I were to buy a whole new set of canvas are there other methods of attaching new canvas to the arch that is still as weatherproof? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
A quick test to see if the system is working and it's only the display; Open the bilge cover in the salon in front of the head door. The "forward emergency bilge pump" is located just aft of the shower sump. Twist the knob on the emergency bilge pump float and listen for (a) the bilge pump to operate and (b) the alarm on the helm panel should also sound.

Great tip! Performed this test last night and the alarm at the helm pump sounded so i know I just have a display issue. It was also the first time on the boat after dark and I flipped on the NAV lights to light the swim platform and noticed the two line display on the SmartCraft5000 lit up. No data, but at least it lit up. Next step will be to pull the coax cable and see if that is the issue.
 
Thanks for the welcome! I've been reading everyone's amazing advice on here for a couple of years, just never actually posted anything.

Now that I got that first post out of the way....I have a question for everyone. I've done some searches on this subject, but haven't really come up with much. The track on the radar arch that holds the canvas (I believe its called the Valance Track) has stretched out. Now my canvas is pulling out in the corners on the back side. My marina canvas guy said it wears out and can be replaced for $700-800. Has anyone done this themselves? Do you have to replace the entire thing or can you replace sections? If I were to buy a whole new set of canvas are there other methods of attaching new canvas to the arch that is still as weatherproof? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.

I just noticed mine during a post trip washdown. It's starting to look a little worn. Has the actual track stretched or the material that slides into it?
 
Great tip! Performed this test last night and the alarm at the helm pump sounded so i know I just have a display issue. It was also the first time on the boat after dark and I flipped on the NAV lights to light the swim platform and noticed the two line display on the SmartCraft5000 lit up. No data, but at least it lit up. Next step will be to pull the coax cable and see if that is the issue.

The displays (I've heard) can be problematic. Mine seems to often be completely blank until it gets an alarm (such as the forward emergency pump due to my shower sump not 100% effective.) . I'm waiting for Rule to upgrade their shower sump with the new style pump due to the fact that the one installed in these 360s use the older style pump (20R 800gph) and the new pump (20DA) doesn't fit inside the sump. (It's too tall.) I found an N.O.S. 20R pump to use until the new sump boxes come out.
 
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I just noticed mine during a post trip washdown. It's starting to look a little worn. Has the actual track stretched or the material that slides into it?
Well, both are pretty worn since they're original to the boat, but the problem seems to be that the track has stretched further open, so the rubber welting won't stay securely inside it.
 
Anyone know if the power wires going from the dash switches have fuses in them? During our second use of the boat this weekend the ST7001 autopilot died. In between tropical downpours I have been trying to diagnose. First check was all fuses in the course computer, all good. Then checked power coming to the course computer, zero volts. Checked power at Autopilot switch and 12V coming to the switch is good. Pulled wires off switch and tested continuity and switch tests good. Plug everything up and turn on autopilot and switch does not light up and no power to course computer. This leads me to think the wire going from the switch to the course computer is open. First thought was maybe an inline fuse, but the first rain bands from Gordon hit us and with lightning everywhere, I decided it might not be the best time to be on a boat trouble shooting electrical.
 
Any suggestions on testing the Glomex antenna? When we bought the boat all the TVs were the original analog tube so surveyer couldn't check if the antenna worked. We took a 22" LCD down to test everything out and when I run a channel scan, nothing is found. Checked the Glomax amplifier and it lights up when I turn the gain on so at least it is getting power.
 
Anyone know if the power wires going from the dash switches have fuses in them? During our second use of the boat this weekend the ST7001 autopilot died. In between tropical downpours I have been trying to diagnose. First check was all fuses in the course computer, all good. Then checked power coming to the course computer, zero volts. Checked power at Autopilot switch and 12V coming to the switch is good. Pulled wires off switch and tested continuity and switch tests good. Plug everything up and turn on autopilot and switch does not light up and no power to course computer. This leads me to think the wire going from the switch to the course computer is open. First thought was maybe an inline fuse, but the first rain bands from Gordon hit us and with lightning everywhere, I decided it might not be the best time to be on a boat trouble shooting electrical.
There are some fuses inside the small door below the steering wheel. I know the GPS fuse is in there. Sometimes I need to pull / plug that fuse in to reset the GPS.

As far as the Glomex goes, if it lights up, your ahead of me (mine doesn't). The word is that these older Glomex Antenna and amp are supposed to be able to receive local HD TV signal, but I am currently unable to test this rumor.
 
Any suggestions on testing the Glomex antenna? When we bought the boat all the TVs were the original analog tube so surveyer couldn't check if the antenna worked. We took a 22" LCD down to test everything out and when I run a channel scan, nothing is found. Checked the Glomax amplifier and it lights up when I turn the gain on so at least it is getting power.
This turned out to be an easy fix. Checked on the connection at the antenna on the arch and the cable had pulled out of the connector. Kind of hard for a low power antenna signal to jump an air gap. Stuck the stripped cable back in the connect and channels came in on the TV. Looks like the cable had been terminated incorrectly with a cheap screw on connector. I will re-terminate with a proper compression connector and should be good to go.
 
Does anyone know a source for the Bow Sunpad or know the dimensions? Ours had weak snaps and during a recent bad thunderstorm apparently blew off the boat. Looking to see if there is a source to just buy a replacement or if we need to have one made.
 

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