Calling all 360 DA owners

Does anyone know if the Galley refrigerator and freezer are plugged into a GFI protected outlet? A friends 360DA has a failure of both the refrigerator and freezer and battery charger/converter. One would not think they would be on the same circuit but all switches are on but units are in-op. All other ac outlets operate. The wiring schematic for AC system does not show the outlets only the circuit breakers. Any help would be appreciated. Gonna pull the refrigerator out tomorrow and find out I guess.
 
MICROWAVE for sale. We've removed the barely used, and still functioning, microwave from our 2002 360 Sundancer. With the internal glass plate & instruction book. Sold together. Asking $50 + shipping. Or, if you're in NE Florida we can arrange to meet somewhere. Text me. Eric 515.554.5578
 
Vacuflush update: Level sensor cleaning; not as nasty as I thought it was gonna be. The sensors are tubes that are just pressed into a rubber grommet and the rubber grommet is just pressed into the holding tank. Three different lengths. The floats are restricted in movement to about a half inch (or less) at the end of each tube. There was no real goo, more like a calcification preventing free travel. (Mine were stuck in the down position, always indicating empty no matter what the actual volume of effluent.) I used a wire brush (and the corner of a flathead screwdriver) to scrape away the crust. I won't know if my work paid off until I flush the head a bunch of times and get some water in the tank.

I still don't know what is causing the "dribblins" I spoke of in a previous post. I'm thinking it must be coming from the vent hose, but when I converted the filter to refillable a couple weeks back, there was only clear fluid inside the filter canister, not the brownish-red dribblins showing up on the outside of the port engine room vent. I can not seem to see the end of the vent hose no matter how I position my head, maybe I'll try my phones camera.
 
be aware that the floats (sensors) are directional....if they are installed upside down on the rods they will not work.....ask me how I know......:mad:

cliff
 
CliffA said:
be aware that the floats (sensors) are directional....if they are installed upside down on the rods they will not work.....ask me how I know......:mad:

cliff
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I put them back on the way they came off, but since they were not working when I started there is guarantee they are on correctly. Gonna add some water and see if I can get one to come on. If I recall, I put them on with the little indented strip to the top.
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Does anyone know if the Galley refrigerator and freezer are plugged into a GFI protected outlet? A friends 360DA has a failure of both the refrigerator and freezer and battery charger/converter. One would not think they would be on the same circuit but all switches are on but units are in-op. All other ac outlets operate. The wiring schematic for AC system does not show the outlets only the circuit breakers. Any help would be appreciated. Gonna pull the refrigerator out tomorrow and find out I guess.
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I just pulled my non-functioning galley freezer out to troubleshoot it. There is a standard 110 vac outlet mounted on the bulkhead behind the fridge. It appears to be non-GFI but may be on the GFI circuit from the head's upper cabinet GFI. I doubt Sea Ray would wire it like that. Probably on its own circuit. There are two voltage control boxes mounted on the bulkhead that plug in to the 110vac. One box for each appliance.
 
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I'm about to replace the two fridges and the freezer. Its looking to be a VERY expensive undertaking. And on the heels of a port motor long block R&R :(
 
I don't believe the fridge and freezer are on GFI's, but the GFI can be found in the head, in the cabinet above the sink. I know this at least controls the entertainment system and the microwave. The other GFI is found in the aft cabin cabinet, which is next the the AC/DC panel cabinet. In my opinion, the controllers are the culprit (found behind both the fridge and freezer). Had mine replaced in 2015.
As for the holding tank....I have NOT pulled the plugs based on feedback from various people. I did fill the tank with water (from the inlet) a couple of times, and had it fully pumped out. After the 2nd time, the indicator read correctly. So far, no issue. I have talked with many boat and RV owners, who all have the same problem after a while.
Thanks for the feedback on the issue.
Summer is going waaaayyy to fast!
 
Well, that project has been put on hold!!! I blew both motors within a month of each other and had to do TWO Mercruiser long blocks. At least they have 3 year warranties on them. :(:eek:o_O:( Worst part is it was down for 3 weeks with the first one, then on sea trials the other one lost the main seal!! So here's another 2 weeks down.
 
Ctsearay said:
Well, that project has been put on hold!!! I blew both motors within a month of each other and had to do TWO Mercruiser long blocks. At least they have 3 year warranties on them. :(:eek:o_O:( Worst part is it was down for 3 weeks with the first one, then on sea trials the other one lost the main seal!! So here's another 2 weeks down.
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YIKES...What happnened to your engines?
 
LONG STORY -

Last season we over heated due to a pin hole in the heat exchanger and was out for 4 weeks. We had to do mill the heads and install a new heat exchanger and a ton of parts. So that repair cost us $7000 and 4 weeks TOTAL Joke!!! So we finally got back in the water and ran her HARD to make sure were were 100%. We had probably 6 trips on her and put her away for last season. Here we go 6 trips into the new season and 29.4 hrs since the last major issue she decides 30 miles from home port to puke up the port motor yet again. There is ZERO wind and its 96 degrees and we are limping home on one motor with a passenger list that includes 2 good friends from Kentucky that have never been on a boat over 19 ft and never seen or tasted salt water. So we limp back home to port at 4 knots sweating like hogs and 6 hrs later were back.

So we get back and call the mechanic while on the water so he shows up right away and gives us the good news. 2 weeks and $15,000.00 and I'll have you back on the water, so a $12,000.00 deposit and we move into week 3!!!!

Ok so update we get her back 3 weeks later after doing the port motor long block totaling $17k and we take her to the home port and she runs like a champ! SWEET we're back! So what do you do? Invite friends down that weekend for a cruise to run the fuel through her and break in the new block. So its a beautiful day and were about 15 miles from our home port and we come off plane and do some cruising in and out of harbors. And we decide to get back on plane and all of a sudden the starboard engine loses power and we come off plane!! I check the temp and oil pressure and both are fine, I shut them both down and restart and they both start and idle fine so I try to get on plane and then the starboard engine does the same thing looses power. So I call the mechanic and let him know the issue. So we start idling back to home port because they have no empty slips at his marina for the weekend so we have 4 hrs of cruising on one motor. The mechanic shows up then next day to scan the motor to see whats up and the starboard motor went also. It puked out the main seal and we lost oil pressure and the gauge was "STUCK" not showing us any issues. So here we are waiting on the second long block to be installed.
 
John, your post here and also the 38-40 diesel post both saddens and disturbs me. I'm so sorry to hear the issues. I love my new (to me) 360. I did look at a 380DA diesel for sale and even got some positive feedback from one of the previous owners, but my current boat at that time was an 18 foot bowrider and my largest boat ever was a 30 foot sailboat, so the 380 seemed just giant to me. Heck this 360 seems giant when it's time to dock it in my narrow fairway / cross-current slip.

A couple of questions if you don't mind. Does insurance cover any of that motor swap at all? Is there anything you can think of to pass on to us other 360 owners that may have been able to prevent this catastrophe? Is there preventative maintenance that should be done on the heat exchangers or possibly swap them out before failure.

Now that I'm learning how to handle the boat around the dock, my mind has new things to worry about. I usually run with the one smartcraft screen that shows rpms, temps and pressures and this past weekend I noticed the port engine running a little warmer than usual and warmer than starboard by five degrees. They are usually within one degree of each other. I dropped a few hundred RPM and the temp reduced to normal. My engines normally run at 174 degrees. Where does dangerous overheating begin?
 
Hi Dave,

well if I can say anything the first one was in fact the heat exchanger and like I said that it looked fine visually but internally it was long gone. We were humming along on a 2 hrs trip and the I'm a gauge watcher big time, the smartcraft on the 2002 is very basic so that didnt help. Temp went over 220 before I caught it and shut down but it was too late. On the Starboard it was the main seal that was just old and dry rotted and that was over quickly also. I typically check my oil level every few trips but honestly I should be doing it every trip. We love the boat but diesels would take more abuse I guess but now that this boat needs almost nothing I'll probably be in it a couple more years.
 
Yeah, diesels seem to be the way to go in the long term but they made only a handful of 360DAs with the Yanmar option. The 360 seems to be the perfect size for me right now, but my end goal is to do the great loop in a few years and I think the 360 may be a little cramped for a long trip like that.
My boat has been 100% saltwater since day one and I'm sure the power package (with the exception of the exhaust manifolds) are still the factory installed items. Are these style heat exchangers inspectable?
 
Yeah that's why more than likely our next boat will be a diesel 42 Sundancer.
from what I understand they are but they need to remove some stuff to do it. I had a mechanic do them for me. But I would seriously look into them and the "water rails" as those are two of the items my guy said were critical.
 
Yeah you wanna hear something? I just get the call from the mechanic (Friday @ 3:30pm) that he has good news, the starboard motor is back in the boat and running. The Bad news is they found the starboard fuel pump is weak and need to order a new one. So there goes another weekend.
 
Ouch! I certainly can sympathize with you. My projects for sure are nothing compared to yours!
Speaking of which, I decided to do my normal check of all things hidden under things - i.e. air conditioning, shower sump, hot water heater. Imagine my surprise when under the aft cabin couch at the water heater, the three compartments with water in them! I removed 3.5 buckets full of water! I had shut the water heater off, but did not shut the valve off at the main circuit in the bilge. I ran water thru the hot water faucet at the sink, but did not see any water leaking out of any hose. The only thing I can figure is that the tank cracked? There is no water in the aft bilge, and the carpet in the aft cabin is dry. So, it must have just happened. Showers were taken the night before, and all had hot water.
Any thoughts? Anyone replace a hot water heater in this boat?
 
Ctsearay said:
Yeah that's why more than likely our next boat will be a diesel 42 Sundancer.
from what I understand they are but they need to remove some stuff to do it. I had a mechanic do them for me. But I would seriously look into them and the "water rails" as those are two of the items my guy said were critical.
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Down in the engine room yesterday.... No water rails on my exhaust manifolds, sounds like that could be a plus.

I was looking to see if there might be a zinc in the heat exchangers, I didn't see any. It also looks like the exchanger is in two larger sub-assemblies and the port exchanger had been dribbling a little seawater on the alternator from the hose. I haven't yet been in the engine room while underway to see if it's currently dripping or if that is old. But at least it is dry under both engines between the stringers after a four hour run, I check that religiously as I am concerned about the shaft seals or other random water ingress.
 
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