Buying a new boat, 3 options. Searay Vs Bayliner.. help plz.

Will i still need to upgrade all the wiring if i run this.

Clarion deck, stock speakers, stock amp,
then 2 Alpine 10" type r's, with about 500 rms mono amp.
then 2 NVS Addictions with a 500-600 rms dual channel amp.

how big of an alternator would i need?

what is a good Wetsounds speaker that is similar to the addiction series?
The Pro-80 Series looks pretty good, would it sound better thnan the NVS? they are 8" cone, nvs is 10"
 
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You'd be looking at 1000-1100 total watts RMS then? I would still upgrade the wiring; the factory wiring would likely be able to handle it (Factory is what, 4 gauge?), but for sound quality and margin for error, I'd still piggy-back off the factory wiring. But at only 1000ish watts, piggy backing with 4 gauge instead of 2 gauge would be more than sufficient... and cheaper!

You'd be looking at about a 53amp average draw from 1100 total watts RMS. You'd still need to upgrade your alternator if it's 55amp, but a 70 amp alternator would likely suffice. Find out what the factory alternator puts out first if it's 70 amps, you'd be alright. Unfortunately, this is a fact of installing decent sized stereos in boats; a boat doesn't require much amperage to run... your typical boat with a 55amp alternator might draw 20-30 amps tops under normal cruising... that leaves about a 50% margin... but it's still only 25 amps (which a small amplifier would exceed that). In cars, you might have a 90-130 amp alternator and they usually factor in at least a 30% margin... 30% of 100 amps is 30... so you're already ahead by 5 amps even though total vehicle draw is higher. See where I'm going with this? Yes, boats require less to run and usually have a larger margin between requirements and capacity... but because the numbers are already so low, the amount of capacity left over for a size-able stereo... well, it just isn't there. (truth be known, there are a lot of guys out there running 2000 watt stereos in cars with factory alternators; a situation that would be similar to you running 1000 watts in your boat... and they burn through alternators on a regular basis. Kind of what happens when you don't do things right in the first place)

I'm not very well versed on the NVS products, but the wet sounds are all engineered from the ground up for their application. MOST other tower speakers put a standard speaker into a can and then expect it to be able to deliver good sound at 65 feet... and they usually do deliver sound, but not very well. Take a look at the specs between the two, look at the range for the speaker and look at sensitivity. Sensitivity will tell you the sound output of the speaker per watt at one meter; it doesn't tell you sound quality though. Ultimately, it is your choice.

If going with wet sounds, and you're only getting two cans... and you have the head room, I'd get the Pro-80's.
 
Oh, also look at power requirements between the two. Always a good feed the speakers with a minimum of 80% of the stated RMS max (if it says 100watts RMS... it should be given at least 80; it will work fine with less, but you won't get the distortion-less volume you would otherwise). Generally it's okay to "over-power" a speaker so long as you don't actually feed it all of the power available. That means basically, if your speakers are 100watts/ch and you run an amp with 150watts/ch... it's only a problem if you make use of that extra 50 watts. A benefit to this would be your amp would run cooler.
 
Wetsounds : Pro 80 Series.
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Specifications[/FONT]​


[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]RMS Watts:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]200[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Peak Watts:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]400[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Impedance:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]4 ohms[/FONT]​

[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Frequency Response:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]20Hz to 20KHZ[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Sensitivity:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]90 db at 1watt/1 meter[/FONT]​

[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Mid Bass:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]8 inch EFG™ cone woofer with polyurethane surround[/FONT]​

[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]High Frequency:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Pro-Axial™ Driver. Coaxially mounted Titanium Diaphragm High Output Horn Loaded Compression Driver[/FONT]​

[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]Note:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]All specifications are for each PRO 80 enclosure[/FONT]​


NVS Addiction
NVS Addiction specifications ea.

10" Pro Audio Coax with 1" HLCD w/ 1" throat
and Titanium Dome

Power Handling - 250W - 375W
Nominal Impedence -4 ohms per module
Weight - 18lbs per module
Hang Height - 10.75" from bottom of mounting tube
Width - 10.0" per module
 
I would be concerned that the NVS don't list the range or sensitivity... What they do list is kind of incomplete as for specs.

Two Pro-80's are $899
Double Up (two Pro-60's, Two MB-8's) goes for $1499
WS-420 sells for about $350

No matter what speakers, from what manufacture you go with, I'd look long and hard at that WS-420... there's a lot to be said about being able to control your tower speakers separate from your in-boat speakers without having to use the head unit's fader. Plus I love the fact that it turns the tower speakers into a PA system... so I can say hello to the ladies!!!
 
should i double up 6's? or get two pro 8's?

what model of the Pro 80's should i get? i see a bunch listed there, whats the difference?

and yea that 420 thing looks like it would be pretty good.
 
Depends how much room you've got; and how much you want to spend. A single pair of Pro-80's would sound good... but two pair would sound even better! :-D

Just get the standard Pro-80's... the other ones listed are for specific towers and boats (MC for mastercraft, X for malibu).

Also something to consider, depending on how you want your music to sound... if going with two pairs, think about Pro-80 and MB-8. The MB-8 is just for mid-bass where the Pro-80 gives treble- mid-bass. You save a little money this with the MB-8, but you'd get the same effect by running two pair of pro-80's and just lowering the treble on the EQ.

Once I get done re-doing the interior of my boat and I find a tower that I like, I'll be installing a pair of Pro-80's and a pair of MB-8's. I enjoy working on vehicles and my boat... only down side is finding enough time to accomplish everything I want to do!
 
haha man your like my buddy, a sound nut. i barely even notice a difference between speakers and hes so picky with them.

i didnt want to think about it anymore so i already ordered.

Wetsounds Pro 80's. total came to about $400 less than what the NVS would cost me, so im happy. i just hope im happy with the sound.

Thanks for all your help.
 
You'll love the sound man!!! And yes, I am an audiophile. (NOT to be confused with pedophile!!!)

I have XM installed on my boat; not sure if you've thought about this or not. I'm going to replace my integrated XM receiver with the new XM Direct 2 mini-tuner... I'll do the same with my truck, so i can just unplug the mini-tuner from the docking station in my truck and put it in my boat. Eliminates the cost of the additional radio. If you use XM, check it out:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Group/ProductMenu.aspx?g=247350&tp=87&nvpair=FFBrand%7cXM
 
i do have XM, and thats a good idea about another docking station. im definately doing that as well.

its funny, 2 years ago, and for the past 10 years, i have been the biggest car nut.

all my pride and joy is into a 500 hp daily driven 01 camaro ss, now that im into boating, i dont even think about my car.

i have even thought about selling it, just so i can spend even more time on the water,

In winnipeg, Manitoba we only get about 5-6 months on the water per year, so its kinda shitty.
 
I hear ya... I could squeeze maybe 7 months out of the season here in michigan, but in reality the weather isn't good enough for but 5 months; at least not when water sports are your thing.

I've been foaming at the mouth to start the season...

I too am a car nut; I'm finding it difficult to keep up with two vehicles and a boat. I don't have enough hands or time to give them all the amount of attention I feel they deserve.

I'm supposed to put a new engine in my truck, but I have NO IDEA when I'll find the time to put it together and drop it in... then take the truck an hour and a half away to be tuned. Maybe if I blow the engine in it now it will become a priority!!
 
well i just got one,

found one in California, ... 2005 Sea Ray 185 sport, 4.3 mercruier with a wakeboard tower. im pretty excited to try this thing out.

Congrats on the new "aqua"sition! I think you'll really like the 4.3 once the lakes thaw out. Having spent a few years in Winnipeg and surrounds I know what you mean abut shallow lakes. Whiteshell area?

Sound like you have the sound system issue handled. I wanted to give you an idea that work for me for your under water power - a composite prop!

Really - they work great, better than aluminm and very close to stainless, with a numer of additional benefits. Back in my trailer sailor days, I had to do some research for a replacement prop - do I need to explain why? Anyway, I looked into the composites and read lots of evalations.... and then decided to try it. Absolutly no regrets.

Check out www.piranha.com as they make the one I used. They come with either a three blade or four blade hub, then you select the blade diameter and pitch you want -they will help with that if you call.

When I wanted a good hole shot for pulling wakeboarders, or a slow troll for fishing, I stuck in the 15 x 19p blades. When I knew I was in for some long range crusing (say like up to Gimli) I put the 14 x 21p blades on, and that little 3.0 Bayliner cuddy really had legs.

The other benefit, espeially in your lake waters, is that if you ever do nick the bottom its easy to pull the damaged blade, get out the utility knife, cut off the messy stuff, put the blade back in and keep boating. Can't do that with metal props!

And when you get home, call or e-mail Pirahna and a +/- $20 replacement blade will be in your hands for the next boating weekend.

Have a great boating season.
 
i currently have a High 5 Stainless prop 21 p. that i bought for my 3.0 litre for about a grand. its amazing, it gave the boat a new feel. felt like i threw in 50 horsepower.

so i was just going to use that again, but forsure there is always a concern for hitting a rock or something and taking out your bottom end. ill look into that composite one, a 19 p would be good for a wakeboard.

here is a couple pics of the boat.
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Nice!! Very nice.

those props you were talking about, i looked for em, i really like the idea. if a stainless prop was like a 10\10 for performance, and an aluminum was a 3/10 where would the composite sit?

also, what is the major difference between a 3 and a 4 blade?

there definately the way to go for shallow water situations and want the performance of a s\s right?
 
those props you were talking about, i looked for em, i really like the idea. if a stainless prop was like a 10\10 for performance, and an aluminum was a 3/10 where would the composite sit?

also, what is the major difference between a 3 and a 4 blade?

there definately the way to go for shallow water situations and want the performance of a s\s right?

I've never run stainless (except on my new B III). However, from all the reports and research I did - using your scale - I think its in the 8/10 or better range. Some reports say they are equal. They have less flex than aluminum so have really consistent performance. What I did find was going with a bigger diameter with the shorter pitch gave me the hole shot to pull wakeboarders out with real ease. I ran a 15 x 19p for all the wakeboarding. My son loved the short pitch 'cause he could just about stand up the minute I hit the throttle. It was up on plane in no time. With the short pitch I could easily pull two wakeboarder up with no prpblem with that little 3.0 engine. I used to run the boat for a camp and pulled newbies for hours with great results on composite.

I used the three blade version. And I did chunk the bottom a few times in the interior lakes (Okanagan, Shushwap - too close to shore or beaching) . They don't bend, and I actually did use the utility knife to take out some fairly major nicks to keep running for the day.

Give the tech guys a call. They were really helpful in selecting the right prop setup for your specific uses.

Hope that helps. you might find that your Hi-Five will become the spare!
 
i bought the Piranha composite prop.

with 2 sets of fins.

its a 4 blade, 22p for on the river etc. and an 18p for wakeboarding / tubing.

thanks for all your help.
 
i bought the Piranha composite prop.

with 2 sets of fins.

its a 4 blade, 22p for on the river etc. and an 18p for wakeboarding / tubing.

thanks for all your help.

Wow -:smt038 I should be on the commission schedule.

I think you'll have a great time with the ability switch up for conditions.

Which river? Do you get out on the Red and cruise by the Forks?

I, and my family, are going to be in Wpg for the end of May for one of my four gone's wedding.

all the best - give us an update on the prop performance some time.
 
I've had 3 High 5's on 3 different boats and thought is was great. The 3 liter may love the lower pitch to allow the RPMs to spool up and the HP and torque to do it's thing. My first boat (1991 180BR) with the 4.3 had a 21P high five and performed unbelievably.

I haven't done the research on the pirahna, but yes if you're in an area that is prone to the unknown for dinging your props the composites may be better.

I just have been a firm stainless proponent, but I usually know the depth of where I boat.
I'm sure some rivers and lakes can have those undiscovered low spots.

I'm hope that Pirahna works out, but on the waters that you know, let that High5 Sing!
 

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