Building Searay 380DA Fiberglass Hardtop

Gallf1

Well-Known Member
Sep 26, 2018
316
Palm Coast, FL
Boat Info
2000 Searay 380
Engines
Mercruiser 454 MAG MPI 7.4L
Custom Forward Hardtop
Whaly 270 Hard Dinghy, 4hp Honda

Bahamas Veteran
Was time to replace canvas and after looking at the cost and longevity (and since I have experience with fiberglass) decided to build a custom mold and hardtops for my 380.

The hardtop extends about 48" forward from the radar arch and has the appropriate curves and changes in shape to accommodate the fit. I will be using the same mold to pull off another one to modify for a 3/4 rear top. I will be making some custom SS or Aluminum support legs once I fit it.

Top will attach to radar arch with male to female fiberglass tabs set in 5200.

Top is made from the appropriate gelcoat, CSM and 1708 BiAx followed by 1/2" Balsa and then CSM and 1708 Biax. There will be no penetrations in the top so I am not worried about Balsa Core issues.

The underside of the hardtop has built in "shelves" to screw in the track for the windows/curtains.

The mold is not a "Class A" mold, meaning that some final fairing and tweaking is required but since I will be painting it anyways its not an issue.

If anyone is interested, I may be willing to sell the mold for the cost of the material to make the mold...... IMG_1106.JPG IMG_1126[843] (2).JPG IMG_1139[834] (2).JPG IMG_1131[829] (2).JPG

Today is pull the part out of the mold day!

IMG_1106.JPG
 
Very nice. Us tradesmen are starting to become antiques as there are no apprentices stepping up to learn our trades. Anxious to see the final product!
 
Love it! I do a lot of work on my cars and boat, but something like this is completely out of my wheelhouse - really interested in seeing the progress.
 
Cant wait to see how it comes out.... I'm the same way ill try anything and tinker.... Love stuff like this....
 
This might be applicable to the 98/99 370 as well. Can't say for sure, but I would expect that Sea Ray used the same arch during transition.
 
A few plastic wedges tapped in and it s
IMG_1141[866] (2).JPG
lipped right out of the mold....good things to say about 3 coats of Rexall #2 paste wax and 3 sprayed coats of PVA. Mold is made from tempered hardboard sealed with 3 coats of Shellac before waxing.

Needs to have final trimming and fit. I left the vertical flanges long so that I can make a final determination on what looks the most visually appealing.....straight back or slight radius to match the arch.

Some gelcoat alligators but dont care as I am going to surface fair and paint. Really happy with the product. I would say it weighs about 60-70lbs.
 
following...
 
Aswome. I bet you could make a small business out of that and stay pretty busy. Will ya make one for a 410???

Dave
 
I love posts like this....bravo!
 
amazing stuff goes on around here. Keep taking lots of progress photos please!
 
Amazing and interesting job. Do you have more photo’s of making the mold and other processes? That would be great for the DIY guys under us.
 
WOW. Love seeing talented craftsmen apply their art. I'm sure you could turn you personal project into a business.
 
Even if this guy were paying himself minimum wage...I bet it's a 5 figure cover, all-in. I'd love me some hardtop but I think I'll stick with canvas until I can buy the next boat...with hardtop....
 
As for costs so far....My labor? (PRICELESS,,,HA!).....just love working on boats.
$500 +/- to make mold, $750 +/- for Fiberglass fabric and resin, Balsa, Fairing Compound etc, and say $200 for Polyurethane paint when finished.
Backing out the cost of the mold, say $950 per hardtop (I am making a Front and Rear).

Hardtop advantages: Can mount Paddle boards, Solar Panels, FIR Camera, Deck Lights etc etc
Will not get torn in high winds, does not need water proofing, doesn't stretch or sag, should last as long as the hull/deck....

Plus "cool" factor....just sayin'
 

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