Buff Magic

Somebody asked for a video.

[video=youtube;ed-xcmHP9ko]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed-xcmHP9ko[/video]
 
Holy crap thrower batman,this stuff is great.I tried it today and i admit i was skeptical because i already compounded the port side and it took 3-4 hrs and looks cloudy still.I spent 30 minute on starboard side today and did 1/3 of it and it looks better than after paying the yard to do it last year and waxing twice!!! and i barely used any yet.A+++++ product guys.
 
I just did my boat with buff magic and there polish. Seem to be good stuff, can't believe now well it worked. I just use my power wheel on it and it shines. will see how long it last!!!! My last boats were all colored and only thing that would last longer than a week out in the sun was Meguiar's three step process.
 
I'm a 3M guy, have been for years. I use a random orbital buffer and a Porter Cable 7424

When compound is needed, 3M compound the White stuff, run in at 1500 RPM Woll pad
Then 3M Finnese, run in at 1800-2000 Wool pad, clean
Then 3M boat Wax run in at 3000 with terry cloth
Final buff with micro fiber bonnet 5000 on the PC buffer

I touch up with 3M cleaner wax for any streaks or water stains.

Looks like new glass for months I'll get nearly a year on the hull and 6 months on the topsides.

My cockpit looks like the day it was bought.
 
All i can say is..... My arms are shot from using buff magic and pro polish on my entire boat, well sides only. took all of 10 hours total. She was in need of it bad but after all the HARD work i am very satisfied with these products. I used the shurhold buffer to. This task could probly be finished alot quicker with an orbital but ya gotta know what your doing not to burn the gelcoat. Overall i will give it an A.
 
here it is done

bigblockcutlass-albums-boat-picture53647-5-11-11just-polisded.jpg
 
I used a dewalt variable speed 1800-2000 rpm.then used 3m marine wax,it seemed to work better than the starbrite with ptef for some reason .
 
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Well I finally got around to using Buff Magic and Pro Polish for the very first time on my 280DA (purchased in October, sat outside with camper canvas up all winter). It was mildly oxidized with several black streaks running around it.

Wow, holy smokes, Buff Magic is great! I would apply some with a cheap paintbrush sparingly to a section and hit it with a wool pad in my Makita circular polisher. The second the buffer hit it, the oxidation went away and the shine came through! Worked it out and it continued to just pop. I was completely impressed. It sure made the chore enjoyable even though it beat me up.

I did use my Porter Cable random orbit polisher with the Shurhold wool pad in some places I just couldn't get the Makita, like in various areas of the cockpit. While the PC did a decent job, Buff Magic really responded better to the circular polisher.

I then used the PC and a Shurhold polishing pad for the Pro Polish. Went on quick and easy, the shine increased a bit. When it hazed over it was easy to wipe off with a microfiber towel.

I used about 1/2 can (maybe a bit less) on my 280DA. Didn't use much Pro Polish at all. And I did *everything* with both. Took me two full days, of dedicated work from start to finish to complete.

I'm sold! Can't wait to try it on my vehicles...

BoatWaxed.jpg


Tom
 
I too just got around to using Buff Magic. Works great. I tested both sides of the bridge. On the starboard side I used Buff Magic and Pro Polish. Looked great, but after a few days I could see where I missed with the polish since it started to oxidize. On the port side I used Buff Magic, followed by 3M Finesse it II and then applied Collonite 925 liquid wax by hand (hope I spelled that right). I must say that the second approach (port side) made my 20 year old boat look like it just fell out of the mold! I'll be doing the entire boat this way.
 
I'm going to order Buff Magic and Pro Polish in an effort to bring my oxidized gelcoat (blue) back to life. I paid to have it done last season and it looked great for about 2-3 weeks and then became oxidized again.

My only question right now is do I go with a circular polisher or a dual action polisher? Although I am not skilled with a circular polisher the gelcoat is pretty oxidized and I want to make sure I have the right supplies and equipment to bring it back to life.

Any suggestions on which to go with?
 
If you read through this thread, you'll see that you will need to use a circular buffer with buff magic. The other just won't get the job done.

Now I wonder when Shurhold will offer a sale again so I can buy more!
 
12-8-2011 SeaRay.jpgI have a sundancer 220 with heavily oxidized maroon trim (about a 8" to 1 foot strip under the gunnel. I bought the Buff Magic because the 3m heavy compound was slow going. I also bought a rotary buffer because the orbital was slower than hand. To my surprise the Buff Magic didnt seem to work on my situation, even with rotary buffing . It lightened the oxide and left stripes of lighter/darker blemishes. After trying this a couple of times, I went back to the 3m heavy duty compound with the rotary buffer. I had to buff several minutes in a 3 or 4 foot section using heavy pressure. Finally the background (lighter maroon )started to blend into the darker (water budrips from the trim).
On the first side (which wasnt as bad) I did the stripe with lighter pressure and a lot by hand. The oxide somewhat returned by the next day.
The boat finisher at our marina said that they just did a badly oxidized boat and ended up wet sanding by hand with high grit (1200) wet sandpaper. The boat looks beautiful, but I hope it doesnt come to that.
 
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Try Presta Super Cut with the rotary. If it doesn't bring back the shine, nothing short of the wet sanding will.....If I were sanding, I'd start with 800 or 1000 though. You can go straight from the 1000 to the Presta and save a lot of steps in the middle.
 
Sounds like wetsanding may have been the easier way to go anyway. May have been a whole lot less labor in the end!
 
390x said:
Try Presta Super Cut with the rotary. If it doesn't bring back the shine, nothing short of the wet sanding will.....If I were sanding, I'd start with 800 or 1000 though. You can go straight from the 1000 to the Presta and save a lot of steps in the middle.
Click to expand...

This weekend I used the super cut on some of the areas I wasn't happy with and the ultra cream on the good areas. I have to say it worked great and my baby shines better than I have seen her shine before! It was super easy and when done just a quick wipe with a dry cloth and wallah! I removed some stripe decals and that is the area I need to work on. I plan on doing some wet sanding to take this down a bit and re-compound it to make it perfect (or close to it) this weekend.
 
Andy841 said:
View attachment 23340I have a sundancer 220 with heavily oxidized maroon trim (about a 8" to 1 foot strip under the gunnel. I bought the Buff Magic because the 3m heavy compound was slow going. I also bought a rotary buffer because the orbital was slower than hand. To my surprise the Buff Magic didnt seem to work on my situation, even with rotary buffing . It lightened the oxide and left stripes of lighter/darker blemishes. After trying this a couple of times, I went back to the 3m heavy duty compound with the rotary buffer. I had to buff several minutes in a 3 or 4 foot section using heavy pressure. Finally the background (lighter maroon )started to blend into the darker (water budrips from the trim).
On the first side (which wasnt as bad) I did the stripe with lighter pressure and a lot by hand. The oxide somewhat returned by the next day.
The boat finisher at our marina said that they just did a badly oxidized boat and ended up wet sanding by hand with high grit (1200) wet sandpaper. The boat looks beautiful, but I hope it doesnt come to that.
Click to expand...
I am sure this has been mentioned before. Wet Sanding a heavy oxidized boat can be a real benefit from the start. The oxidized surface has to go somewhere and washing it away in a proper wet sand bath is best. If one just goes straight to a buffer, compound, cutting pad it is certain to end up in the foam/wool cutting pad. It just does not make sense or aid in a good finish to buff with oxidation contaminated pads.
 
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