Broken snap screws

Discussion in 'General Maintenance/Repair Questions' started by boatman37, May 21, 2018.

  1. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    I have a couple of snaps on my aluminum windshield frame that are snapped off. Any easy way to get those out? Or should I just screw in new snaps right next to the broken one? Probably too small for an extractor. I could try drilling out the broken piece but I'm sire if would drift off center, which would be fine as long as I can get a new one screwed in.
     
  2. JimG

    JimG Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Nov 4, 2008
    Southern WV
    2007 310 DA
    Kohler 5ECD
    Twin 350 Mags
    Raw Water Cooled
    V-Drives
    Yeah... if you cant drill them out, I would just add a snap beside it and add the new matching one to the canvas.
     
  3. importmonkey

    importmonkey Opinionated Member SILVER Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    707
    Jul 9, 2015
    Middle River, MD
    2007 44 Sundancer
    QSC 500s
    Drill them out with the right sized bit and rivet in a new one. It's way easier than you think and you'll be much happier with the results. Use a pair of pliers wrapped with painters tape to prevent it from spinning while drilling.
     
  4. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    You mean put the pliers on the broken screw? There isn't anything to grab onto. It's broke off flush with the windshield frame. I have some new screw in snaps and even a couple oversized. I have a couple of loose ones in the fiberglass so bought a pack with oversized screws so if I can drill out the old one then replacing it with the oversized one should be ok? These 2 screws are only used when I have the front isenglass in which I hardly ever do so it isn't critical, just my OCD wants them fixed...lol.

    Might try to drill them out tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes. Any idea what size bit I might need?
     
  5. importmonkey

    importmonkey Opinionated Member SILVER Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    707
    Jul 9, 2015
    Middle River, MD
    2007 44 Sundancer
    QSC 500s
    Ah. I see. Well, my snaps broke off and left a little to grab on to. I used whatever drill size was appropriate for the rivets I was using (I think they were all 1/8". I would still try. They are probably too small for EZouts, but start with a spring loaded center punch and a small 1/16" drill bit. Take your time and be patient with it. It's worth a try anyways.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2018
  6. NotHerDecision

    NotHerDecision Well-Known Member PLATINUM Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    Jun 28, 2016
    Houston, Texas
    2001 Sea Ray 460 Sundancer
    2014 Seadoo 155 LTD
    2105 Seadoo 130 SE
    2013 Mercury Dinghy
    Cummins 6CTA 8.3L
    I have some left hand drill bits that work well for stuff like this. Truth is typically they grab the remaining portion and unscrew it.

    Josh
     
  7. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    Didn't know there was such a thing?
     
  8. NotHerDecision

    NotHerDecision Well-Known Member PLATINUM Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    Jun 28, 2016
    Houston, Texas
    2001 Sea Ray 460 Sundancer
    2014 Seadoo 155 LTD
    2105 Seadoo 130 SE
    2013 Mercury Dinghy
    Cummins 6CTA 8.3L
  9. fwebster

    fwebster Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 6, 2006
    Middle Tennessee ; Panama City Beach, FL
    1996 450DA
    3116 Caterpillars
    If sea Ray installed the snaps with screws, then the screws are stainless. Stainless screws are really, really hard and nearly impossible to get a bit to stay centered and get a bite. Verify the size, but I believe a 1/8" pop rivit fits the hole in a snap perfectly. Be very gentle and go slow but try drilling out the screw with a 1/8" HSS drill bit, Even if the bit walks off center a tad, you can still install a snap with a pop rivit. It might be a bit off the center, but there should be enough stretch in the canvas to get all the snaps fastened while covering the hole in the windshield frame.

    On an '86 model boat, I think I'd remove all the screwed in snaps one at a time and replace them with aluminum pop rivits. The 1/8" rivits fit in the snap and a future repair is as simple as drilling out the rivit and putting a new one in its place. The extruded windshield frame is hollow so the old rivit just stays inside the frame, never to be seen again.
     
  10. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    True about the SS screws Frank. Very hard to drill SS. I will give it a try tomorrow or Friday. The top is new and pretty tight so not sure how much I can stretch it but should be enough if it is off center by 1/4" or so. Also, these 2 snaps are in the upper right so the front isenglass is what snaps to them. I should have enough adjustment in my front bimini portion to allow me to offset the screw if I need to.
     
  11. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    Well whatta ya know....they were already aluminum rivets...lol. Drilled out real easy. ended up putting the regular screw snaps back in but will be buying some rivets to use those.

    Thanks!
     
  12. fwebster

    fwebster Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 6, 2006
    Middle Tennessee ; Panama City Beach, FL
    1996 450DA
    3116 Caterpillars
    Put the change to aluminum rivits pretty high on your priority list. Stainless screws or rivits will cause dissimilar metal corrosion that eats the less noble metal, which is your windshield frame. Repairing bubbled up powder coating is a major and expensive job.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2018
  13. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    will do. have to run to the hardware store later anyway so will get the rivets then. and try to find my rivet gun...lol
     
  14. Soulshine

    Soulshine Member

    141
    Sep 25, 2016
    Seneca Lake, NY
    '83 SRV 360 Express
    Twin Merc. 454
    1/8” cobalt center drill is the way to go.

    If needed flatten the broken end with a Dremel and abrasive wheel so you’re not trying to start on a funky surface.

    The cobalt drill will cut the S/S like butter.
     
  15. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    I got them out pretty easily with a regular bit. They were aluminum rivets. I went to the hardware store and bought aluminum rivets tonight but can't use the snaps I have. They have the threaded post and it doesn't seem like they are removable so must need different snaps? We have a couple cushions at the place that did our top so will be going there in the next week or two. I will see if they have the correct snaps. The other issue is my rivet tool. It's probably 20 years old and is flat across the face where the rivet sticks out. Not sure it can cut the rivet into the recessed snap? I will try it and if not buy a newer one.
     
  16. importmonkey

    importmonkey Opinionated Member SILVER Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    707
    Jul 9, 2015
    Middle River, MD
    2007 44 Sundancer
    QSC 500s
    I had to file the tip of my rivet tool to more of a cone shape to allow it to sit deep enough into the rivet. Took all of 10 minutes.
     
  17. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    Nothing to file on mine. Mine is flat the whole length of the base. Probably have to get a different one or borrow one
     
  18. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor GOLD Sponsor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    You can use a spacer between the flat of the gun and the inside of the rivet. You need something that is hollow for the shaft of the rivet to slide through, yet narrow enough to fit inside the rivet. Think "skinny, hollow steel tube". I used a roll pin. Any local hardware store should have them.
     
  19. boatman37

    boatman37 Active Member

    894
    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    interesting. will look into that
     

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