Bridge hatch repair

[spikedaddy99]

I had the bridge hatch lift ram screws pull out of the hatch. What would be the best way to repair the fiberglass and replace the screws? Just fill with epoxy and after it hardens redrill for screws?

 

[Henry Boyd]

I had the bridge hatch lift ram screws pull out of the hatch. What would be the best way to repair the fiberglass and replace the screws? Just fill with epoxy and after it hardens redrill for screws?

Generally a good plan. If you have it, you should add some fairing filler West System has it (although its brown), I use MAS Cell-O-Fill just because it is white (and I still have two tubs of it hanging around from the wooden dinghy project.)

If you don't have any filler on hand, a small tube of the West System G-Flex (epoxy with filler mixed in) would do the trick and not leave you with a couple quarts of epoxy filler. I'd mail you some, but I think sending a ziplock baggy with very fine white powder through the mail might get both of us more attention than we need, or want.

 

[Gimme Time]

Mike, I ended up having a Larger SS Crome finished base plate made for mine as it already failed twice. I can take a picture of it and post this weekend if you’d like!

 

[Jeremygavin]

Mine failed too and I through bolted the plate to the hatch. I was lucky and didn’t have a lot of gelcoat damage so the base plate covered it.

 

[spikedaddy99]

Henry, I just spit coffee on my computer. John/Jeremy, pics would certainly be appreciated. M

 

[fwebster]

If anybody is going the West Systems route, Gougeon Brothers now sells white and black coloring agents. I've used the white with 105 resin and 205,206 and 207 clear hardener as well as G-Flex -650 Toughened epoxy. It is a very close but not and exact match for Sea Ray Artic White gelcoat.

 

[spikedaddy99]

Thanks Frank. The repair should be covered by the mount plate so I don't have to worry about color matching, but this will certainly help others.