Bravoitis or deeper overheating issue

[Rotorhead58]

Looks like you're on your way to better boating days. I've taken the water pump off a single I/O in the past and it really wasn't that bad. Depends on the room in front of the engine but I wouldn't go pulling the engine before giving it a try. Manifolds are also not a really hard job for a single I/O while in the boat. It will definitely be cheaper than buying a new boat and doing the work yourself along with shopping for parts online will keep it down to a minimal amount gives you a great sense of satisfaction!

The way the engine sits, and some of the add on’s the previous owner has installed, I’d need another 12” in arm length and probably the same on the ratchet extension to reach the bolts to the housing. Agree with you on the manifolds though.

Again, I’ll show my findings on this thread for others use in the future, but if I pull the engine, I’ll start a new thread with step by step instructions of what I do. More to follow...

 

[Espos4]

The way the engine sits, and some of the add on’s the previous owner has installed, I’d need another 12” in arm length and probably the same on the ratchet extension to reach the bolts to the housing. Agree with you on the manifolds though.

Again, I’ll show my findings on this thread for others use in the future, but if I pull the engine, I’ll start a new thread with step by step instructions of what I do. More to follow...

Does your boat have a removable bulkhead in front of the motor?
The 240 Sundeck has a bulkhead that can be removed and allows much easier access to the raw water pump. I’m not sure how your 260 is configured.

As far as a new belt is concerned, the Mercruiser part is Over $100. I used this continental belt for $30 and it works well. I couldn’t find a comparable gates belt that fit.

 

[Rotorhead58]

View attachment 89880

Does your boat have a removable bulkhead in front of the motor?
The 240 Sundeck has a bulkhead that can be removed and allows much easier access to the raw water pump. I’m not sure how your 260 is configured.

As far as a new belt is concerned, the Mercruiser part is Over $100. I used this continental belt for $30 and it works well. I couldn’t find a comparable gates belt that fit.

There is a “removable” bulkhead in front of the engine, but it’s more of a marine white plywood that’s secured to the Hull. That being said, the biggest issue I’m facing, wrt the seawater pump is that the sides of the hull are extremely tight against either side of the engine, and higher than the pump itself. I’m sure it’s doable, it’ll just take some time and stretch-Armstrong likeness.

 

[Espos4]

There is a “removable” bulkhead in front of the engine, but it’s more of a marine white plywood that’s secured to the Hull. That being said, the biggest issue I’m facing, wrt the seawater pump is that the sides of the hull are extremely tight against either side of the engine, and higher than the pump itself. I’m sure it’s doable, it’ll just take some time and stretch-Armstrong likeness.

The piece circled in red is the removable bulkhead on my 240. Once removed, I can lay on the floor and dangle my arms into the bilge to work.

 

[Rotorhead58]

The piece circled in red is the removable bulkhead on my 240. Once removed, I can lay on the floor and dangle my arms into the bilge to work.
View attachment 89882

I have the same.

 

[Rotorhead58]

I have the same.

The piece circled in red is the removable bulkhead on my 240. Once removed, I can lay on the floor and dangle my arms into the bilge to work.
View attachment 89882

This is the the seawater pulley. To the left of this, there’s about 1” clearance between the pulley and the side of the inner Hull. From there, it rises about 12” tall, where it meets the steps to the swim platform. I’ll take another pic tomorrow.

 

[ColoSR]

The raw water pump is not too hard. I had to pull it the first weekend I owned my boat. This is my first boat. It took about 2 hours in and out, including the time to pull that access piece. My mechanic skills are very basic.

The impeller is cheap and easy to replace, but make sure you take a look at the housing. They can get scored, and don’t generate the pressure you need. If you are having cooling issues with a thru Hull I would think you would need to replace the housing.

Thru hull pickups are very popular for the 5.7 and 6.2 liter engines because the tight engine area makes these engine more prone to cooling and vapor lock issues.

I installed a vessel view mobile so that I could get engine codes rather than beeps. I really like it, and it was only about $200. My boat has analog gauges, and they read much higher than the engine is seeing.

 

[Rotorhead58]

The raw water pump is not too hard. I had to pull it the first weekend I owned my boat. This is my first boat. It took about 2 hours in and out, including the time to pull that access piece. My mechanic skills are very basic.

The impeller is cheap and easy to replace, but make sure you take a look at the housing. They can get scored, and don’t generate the pressure you need. If you are having cooling issues with a thru Hull I would think you would need to replace the housing.

Thru hull pickups are very popular for the 5.7 and 6.2 liter engines because the tight engine area makes these engine more prone to cooling and vapor lock issues.

I installed a vessel view mobile so that I could get engine codes rather than beeps. I really like it, and it was only about $200. My boat has analog gauges, and they read much higher than the engine is seeing.

Thanks for the info! Did you have to remove the cool fuel housing?

Currently on order, awaiting delivery:
Impeller
Housing
O rings
Bolts and washers
Gasket
160 thermostat and all of its gaskets
Belt

Should all be here by next weekend.

If that doesn’t solve the issue, I will be looking more toward manifolds, sensors, and circulating pump.

Below are some pics of the underside of the manifolds. First two are port side, 3rd pic is stbd side.

 

[Espos4]

If that was my boat, I’d order the manifolds and elbows now.
They very well could be original. I replaced my 2007 originals 2 years ago and they didn’t look nearly as bad as those.

If they are rusted and leaking externally, there’s a good chance they are leaking internally.

 

[Thornton69]

The port manifold in your pic looks like it could be freeze cracked.

 

[Rotorhead58]

If that was my boat, I’d order the manifolds and elbows now.
They very well could be original. I replaced my 2007 originals 2 years ago and they didn’t look nearly as bad as those.

If they are rusted and leaking externally, there’s a good chance they are leaking internally.

I was afraid of that answer. If I’m taking all of this apart, would you recommend risers as well, seeing that water flows through them too?

 

[Espos4]

Yes I would. Take it all apart and do it once. The dry joint gaskets are at least $160 in parts alone. If you only do the manifolds now and the risers in a year or two, you’ll need to buy those gaskets again.

 

[Rotorhead58]

Yes I would. Take it all apart and do it once. The dry joint gaskets are at least $160 in parts alone. If you only do the manifolds now and the risers in a year or two, you’ll need to buy those gaskets again.

I’ll have to sell a kidney and maybe a child. Any recommendations as to who to purchase them through?

 

[Espos4]

You’ve got.

Thanks for the info! Did you have to remove the cool fuel housing?

Currently on order, awaiting delivery:
Impeller
Housing
O rings
Bolts and washers
Gasket
160 thermostat and all of its gaskets
Belt

Should all be here by next weekend.

If that doesn’t solve the issue, I will be looking more toward manifolds, sensors, and circulating pump.

Below are some pics of the underside of the manifolds. First two are port side, 3rd pic is stbd side.View attachment 89957View attachment 89958View attachment 89959

You’ve got a good boat there that just needs Some attention.
Bite the bullet now and take care of the exhaust and cooling system, that way you will really be able to enjoy the boat.

 

[Espos4]

I’ll have to sell a kidney and maybe a child. Any recommendations as to who to purchase them through?

Michigan Motorz
Nuwave Marine

Probably around $1400 for the OEM exhaust parts. Expensive? A little, but much cheaper than getting water in the motor.

 

[ColoSR]

Rotorhead, here are a few photos that I had on my phone.

My boat has the cool fuel 2, but your CF3 should be right below the alternator where my spin off fuel filter is (white). I had to remove the small pulley right above the raw water pump to get access, the photo is upside down but you can rotate to see the access to the bolts with that pulley removed. Certainly needed an extension, but not too crazy. I think there were 2 bolts. Once you get the bolts off, you need to slide the pump forward to disconnect the hoses. Finally, there is a picture of the impeller. When you put it in, add some lubricant for the initial startup, I used grease but some say to use dish soap.

 

[Rotorhead58]

Rotorhead, here are a few photos that I had on my phone.

My boat has the cool fuel 2, but your CF3 should be right below the alternator where my spin off fuel filter is (white). I had to remove the small pulley right above the raw water pump to get access, the photo is upside down but you can rotate to see the access to the bolts with that pulley removed. Certainly needed an extension, but not too crazy. I think there were 2 bolts. Once you get the bolts off, you need to slide the pump forward to disconnect the hoses. Finally, there is a picture of the impeller. When you put it in, add some lubricant for the initial startup, I used grease but some say to use dish soap. View attachment 90015 View attachment 90016 View attachment 90017 View attachment 90018 View attachment 90019

Big help, much appreciated.

 

[Rotorhead58]

Hello All,
Long time update coming. Long story made short: My local marina, whom I trusted to do solid work, simply did not. The first in-house mechanic updated me on progress being made throughout the winter months (albeit slow progress due to "winterizing 300 boats")... only when I called for updates, which should have been a red flag. Fast forward 6 months, turns out the mechanic did minimal work and nothing truly got done other than a new alternator installed, a new starter, which I purchased and was promised would be installed (which was never installed), as well as a new raw water impeller, bolts, gaskets, o rings, and housing (all of which I purchased). I also purchased a new thermostat and o rings. Come to find out, there was no thermostat installed by the previous owner (probably due to overheating issues I'm currently experiencing).

I discussed my dissatisfaction with the marina manager to which he said, "This is the reason the mechanic was let go. You're not the only one". Fast forward a few weeks and a new mechanic was hired on. A compression test was conducted and all 8 cylinders; results were scattered from 165-185. Not spectacular but certainly within tolerance from what I could identify via 350 merc engine documentation. I insisted on the heads being taken off and brought to a machine shop for testing. If it wasn't a valve issue, common sense would dictate an issue with the piston rings. Low and behold, some cylinders needed work done on the exhaust valves, while other cylinders needed work done on their intake valves. Heads were taken off and brought to a reputable shop where work was done on all valves. All cylinders compression now read 180 on the button.

Fast forward a few weeks, and the new mechanic ended up taking another job. I take a look at the boat after the 2nd mechanic left, and hoses were not re-installed, brackets were unbolted, nuts/ bolts were missing. As a former Army helicopter crew chief, where maintenance was always spot on and the pride of our unit, one could say I was beyond pissed-off and seeing red.

I won't go into detail as to which marina its currently at, manager's name, or what was said other than that discussions were had and quite heated on one specific side. Since then, I have called a very well known and reputable merc mechanic in the area and a plan has been formulated between he and I. I decided to have the boat trailered to their shop, have the engine pulled, have a 100% review of the engine, its components new and old, as well as, all hoses located within the bilge/ engine bay, by their experts. Since I'm not the original owner, and I've had to be towed back to the marina 2 out of the 4 times we took the boat out, I believe this is the best avenue for not only safety reasons, but a simple piece of mind. We will be verifying that all previous work was done correctly, from all new gaskets, compression test again, borescopes used for manifolds/ risers/ elbows, etc. Any and all issues that come to light will be resolved by professionals.

I have kept meticulous notes and have updated my personal maintenance spreadsheet I made, with any and all work done, part numbers, cost of each part, what hours they were replaced, and when they need to be replaced again, based off of the Merc/ Sea Ray maintenance manuals.

I do this, not only for my own sanity and OCD, but also because if I sold the boat, I would never want the next owner to ever experience what I am experiencing now. They will have no doubts about the condition of the boat, its reliability, or when anything was replaced. Something I have always lived by: "If you take care of your gear, your gear will take care of you." This team of new mechanics will help me work with a clean slate, get everything back to baseline, and the manager of the marina will be helping with a significant portion of the costs associated with getting the boat back into the water.

 

[ColoSR]

Sorry to hear this, the first year with a used boat is frustrating enough without mechanic issues.

take heart in that it does get better. You generally spend the first season of boat ownership chasing the deferred maintenance, but once you get it lined out they are very reliable if treated well.

 

[Rotorhead58]

Sorry to hear this, the first year with a used boat is frustrating enough without mechanic issues.

take heart in that it does get better. You generally spend the first season of boat ownership chasing the deferred maintenance, but once you get it lined out they are very reliable if treated well.

Just how the cookie crumbles sometimes. Like I said though, once this is done, everything should be squared away again.