Bravo II - do I have a sea water blockage?

Woody said:
Posted by Lazy Daze...Try this: While standing on the ground, take the nozzle off your hose and hold the hose end vertically. Does that column of water (which is now exiting the hose) still make it to the second floor? Actually water would make it to the second floor again, once it fills up enough of the world.

The hoses and water flow are basically horizontal between the transom and water pump. The water pickups/muff are a couple feet lower than this so you lose a couple psi due to increased head. Set all the hot water heater and garden hose stuff to the side. If you muffs weren't leaking like a sieve you should get water flow from the disconnected inlet hose unless there is an obstruction. Other than anything you may have done in the process of r/r of the drive the only thing I can wonder about is the condition on the hose itself. How does it look? Is it possible there is a flap of deteriorated hose that blocks flow from one direction?
Click to expand...
The end of the hose that I can see looks okay. I think there is a hose inside the bell housing (not sure if this is the correct nomenclature) that could have a flap problem.

At this point, I intend to rebuild the water pump and measure the water flow according to the engine manual volume test. If it passes I guess it's okay. If not, I'll take the out drive off for a look-see.

Frank
 
MLauman said:
Are you sure you got all the pieces of the busted impeller out of the system?
Click to expand...
Good question, I don't know. However, I would expect those pieces to be downstream of the pump, my 1-way blockage is upstream.

Anyway It's probably a good idea to clear those pieces? I'm thinking of pulling the thermostat to see if any pieces are there. Not sure what else to do.

Frank
 
frank2644 said:
I'm thinking of pulling the thermostat to see if any pieces are there. Not sure what else to do.

Frank
Click to expand...

I suppose you could rig up a garden hose connection to the "out" hose coming from the pump (after the pump/engine side) and then see if you've got good flow coming out of the transom plate exhaust holes.

ON EDIT: If there were any pieces in there, where would be the first place they would collect? Fuel Cooler? T-stat?

Question, if the circ pump isn't moving, will water flow through it? If not, I guess you could take the belt off and spin it by hand.

I'd check for pieces anywhere you can, first.

This is one of those things that should be simple. I feel bad that you're spending so much time on this - I know what that can be like.
 
Last edited:
Okay, I rebuilt and installed the sea water pump yesterday. Then I tested the output flow by disconnecting the outlet hose into a bucket and cranking the engine (using ear muffs). Water gushed out pretty good. Then I re-connected the hose, started the engine and, thankfully, water flowed from the engine discharge within 10 seconds. The engine ran good and eventually heated up to it's normal 160 degrees.

I did not perform the sea water flow test as described in the manual because that must be done in the water.

So, in summary, I guess the one-way flow problem was not really a problem. I can only conclude that my ear muffs were leaking to much to provide the pressure needed to push water up the outdrive and out the sea water hose.

Like someone said in this thread, I was probably over-thinking the problem.

Thanks to all who posted.

Frank
 
Glad to hear it worked out well for you, Frank. :smt001
 
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