Bravo 3 Drives...........another place to look for corrosion.

Dave S

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TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 3, 2006
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Upstate South Carolina
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The boat was hauled out today and so began my ritual of cleaning and painting the out drive. We have a lot of corrosion issues everywhere on our lake even though it is a fresh water lake. My boat is normally in the water year round although it did sit out a few months this past winter due to low water levels. Happily the addition of a heavy duty (red) Mercathode Controller and extra anode buttons on either side of the outdrive do a very respectable job keeping the corrosion to a minimum and concentrated primarily around the prop hub with a small amount of corrosion on the lower tip of the skeg. I was very pleased with what I saw at todays haul out but then I discovered something that I did not like at all so I thought I would bring it up here.

When I removed the props I noticed that bearing carrier had corrosion on it too. The carrier is hidden by the rear prop so I was quite surprised by this. Plus it appears to be bronze in color which was equally baffling in terms of why it might be corroding. So I asked one of the service techs about it and he said it is aluminum. :wow: The annodizing color just makes it look like bronze. (He also told me the carriers on Sea Core drives are stainless.) Anyways I guess this annodizing coating is not as good as one might expect. I was equally shocked at how much the corrosion had eaten into the bearing carrier too. I also found an article on Boat US that explains what Mercury does with the carrier.

According to a marine corrosion expert and metallurgist now retired from Mercury Marine, there's no anode on the bearing carrier on pre-2000 Bravo III models "because there's no room." The drive shaft areas on Alpha and all Bravo sterndrives are identical but the twin propellers on Bravo IIIs take up more space. Dale Pluhar, now an independent marine consultant, explained that Mercruiser’s response was to counteract corrosion by coating the aluminum carrier with chromate material to prevent corrosion. Merc also issued a new prop shaft bearing that creates a better watertight seal and they added a second anode to the Bravo III's cavitation plate. These new parts first became available in December 2000 and in the spring of 2001



Anyways, I cleaned it up the best I could and then sprayed it with zinc chromate primer just like I did with the drive housing itself. Tomorrow it gets a coat of phantom black as well.

So if you have corrosion issues pull your props too when painting your drive and check the bearing carrier housing for signs of corrosion. I'll be keeping a close eye on mine and will try and take a few pictures tomorrow so you can see the the corrosion.

Dave
 
On my 99 the bearing carrier got so erroded that I chose to replace the lower gear case after 5 years of fresh water use...I hoped the new generation was a better design, maybe not.
 
Thanks Dave, I will be pulling mine out next week! I will be sure to check that out. What brand of primer do you use? Do you buy the Merc Phantom Black?

Corey
 
Thanks Dave, I will be pulling mine out next week! I will be sure to check that out. What brand of primer do you use? Do you buy the Merc Phantom Black?

Corey

I do use Mercury's Phantom Black. I go back and forth on primer. The last time I used Mercury grey primer and the Phantom black didn't adhere well. So I went back to Zinc Chromate this time. I am allowing it to dry until tomorrow before I apply the Phantom Black.
 
There's a Zinc Chromate that is Army green that works great.

Glad you caught it now Dave.

Corey good to talk to you tonight. Sounds like you're right behind Dave. Keep that O/D looking good.
 
There's a Zinc Chromate that is Army green that works great.

Glad you caught it now Dave.

Corey good to talk to you tonight. Sounds like you're right behind Dave. Keep that O/D looking good.

It was good talking to you too Todd! Thanks again for all the tips and taking time out to speak to me on the phone!

Keep in touch, and have a great weekend!

Corey
 
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Every year I sand, prime and paint my outdrive, and this area specifically. I found corrosion on this carrier the first year I owned the boat and now I put 3-4 coats of paint on this area every year. I am in salt water so I use interlux outdrive paint. The damage has not spread in 4 years now that I paint it heavy.

http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh92/boatrboy/270%20Sundancer/?action=view&current=IMG_0849.jpg

Is the Interlux a dull paint? That's what it looks like in your picture. Does it also have some anti-fouling properties?
 
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This is what mine looked like after 5 short New England salt water seasons. (and no maintenance by the previous owners) I replaced the whole lower assembly with the improved design, and I'm hoping short sweet fresh water seasons combined with magnesium anodes will prevent recurrence.

Cheers,

Bill
 

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Here are a couple of pictures I took right before I painted the drive. The green primer is Zinc Chromate. I am going to have to keep an eye on this and if gets worse then I will repalce the bearing carrier. The rest of the drive is in great shape for our lake so this came as a surprise to me.

DSC06212.jpg


DSC06214.jpg


And just to show you what type of corrosion is possible in a freshwater lake here is boat that sat unused in our lake for several years. The prop is aluminum and it's eaten away pretty well too.

DSC06220.jpg
 
Dave
Are you going to remove the boat more often now so you can keep an eye on the drive?

Sorry to see that corrosion.
 
Is the Interlux a dull paint? That's what it looks like in your picture. Does it also have some anti-fouling properties?
Dave - I do use the interlux trilux 33 which is dull and has anti-fouling properties. I put several coats as shown in the pic and usually put 3/4 coats on this bearing carrier so it does not get worse.
Sea Ray King - yes the carrier can be replaced. I talked to the service department about doing this myself but without the right outdrive tools, it would be too difficult. One guy said sometimes removing the carrier requires heat and usually they replace many other parts once in there. I don't know about that for sure, he was probably warming me up for a big bill, but none-the less, not a job for a home mechanic IMO. I will keep doing what I am doing to keep the corrosion from getting any worse.
BTW - I did make a pressure tester and have tested at 20 psi every winter to be sure the seals are OK.

Mark
 
Hmmm... nice pitting. Let's hope it's all lightly loaded as they're all stress concentration points where cracking likes to begin... if you were an aircraft, we'd probably try and blend 10:1 to remove the corrosion and to try and reduce the stress concentration, but in this case, it looks like there wouldn't be enough material left to do the job the part is supposed to do. If I knew there was an appreciable load here, I'd tell you to remove and replace immediately... but as I don't know the design load, so at least inspect for cracking and understand the consequences of an unexpected failure... hate to be doom and gloom, but usually better to err on the side of safety.

BTW, I've seen a lot of that primer. Typical repair for other vehicles is to remove the corrosion (it's bad material, trust me, you don't want it around), blend perhaps 10:1 (sort of like sanding), perform proper surface prep (like clean, degrease, anodize or sometimes alodine... which makes me wonder, do they have a marine alodine kit for boats?) prime and paint.
 
For those that may be wondering, chromic acid anodizing not only acts as a corrosion barrier, but it also helps your primer stick. Unfortunately, it's not always easy to anodize an installed part. Alodine is a chemical process that is often substituted for quick repairs, or when parts can't be disassembled and reanodized. Alodine isn't as good (in my opinion) as anodizing, but it's a whole lot better than nothing. Some process will impact your fatigue life... so buyer beware.

Now here's the catch... The original Alodine process uses hexavalent chromium... not real good stuff to be handling if you don't know what you're doing... but then again, I've never been a real fan of handling high chromate based primers either. There is a newer Alodine out there that eliminated the hexavalent chromium, heck, most all industry in this country is under pressure to find ways to eliminate various forms of chromium in their processes. Not sure what the results are, but my interest is piqued enough that the next time I talk to my materials friends, I have something to ask them...
 
Dave I am also very sorry to see the corrosion. Have you ever tested the water for current? There must be something happening in your freshwater lake that does not happen in our river (freshwater). I walked down to the ramp at the marina the other day and watched a boat that appeared to have not been moved in quite some time be loaded onto a trailer. As I talked with the owner he mentioned that he had not moved the boat in nearly 2.5 years (which is why he was selling it). The drive had a little algae slime on it.... but no evidence of corrosion whatsoever. It was a Alpha drive... based upon the age of the boat I would guess a gen 1. It is crazy to have such a different experience ... both in fresh water.
 
Jeremy,
Did he or anyone around him have shore power? Check your's often.
 
The amount of corrosion on some drives shown here is amazing. I haven't any on my B3 yet even where paint is scratched. In fresh water of Lake Superior and short season. The zincs do need changing now after 3rd season.
 
Jeremy,
Did he or anyone around him have shore power? Check your's often.

Yes he said he was plugged in full time, most people here are (keep the AC on :smt001). All 500 slips in the marina have shore power.... the only folks who do not use it are a couple of ski/bow rider type boats. We have been in 2 months now.... I did a check at 1 month (swam under boat with mask) and then again this weekend. I was surprised to find everything clean (no algae slime), zincs in great shape (approx 90%) and most importantly... no corrosion on the drives or through hull fittings. I need to get one of the air pumps so I do not have to keep coming back up for air..... takes about 15-20 min to check the underside out.

I really expected some slime... or zincs to be depleted more... maybe my weekly soapy plume scares all the bad things away. During the last 60 days I ran the boat 38 days which helps too.
 

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