Bow Speakersb

For what it's worth/comparison, the Sea Ray price is about $550 (two pair, complete with speakers). I'm not sure what speakers are in it.
 
For what it's worth/comparison, the Sea Ray price is about $550 (two pair, complete with speakers). I'm not sure what speakers are in it.

It looks like I can do the 4" Kicker enclosures with Kicker speakers for $240, a savings of 54%! The next question is how I will run the speaker wire. I was planning on rebedding the bow pulpit this spring, so I may try to run them inside.

Bryan
 
I don't know how they're run on the boat in question, but typically this size Sea Ray will have, for lack of a better term, a drop ceiling in the cabin. Which would obviously allow for running hidden wires direct to a certain spot on deck. But I believe you have a glued-on headliner. Which means you're going to see the wires when you're in the cabin. An idea would be run a connection to the inside of the windshield/dash area. Then plug the speakers in and clamp them onto the bow rail when you want to use them. BUT, now that cord becomes a tripping hazard, unless you used a connection on both sides of the windshield and ran the wire right around the windshield and to the bow rail on both the port and starboard side, directly abeam of the windshield.

If it was me, though, I'd try to make that cordless bluetooth-speaker-thingy work. You could probably use a RAM mount, that stays on the bow rail permanently, to quickly attach and remove the speakers. It would probably offer the cleanest looking appearance and least time-consuming install.
 
Here's why I'm so up on Bluetooth...no wires, mounting (unless you want to), and you can try various setups...don't like it, return it. Try returning installed speakers, it's usually an issue or a restocking fee.

We even control the stereo via Bluetooth from our Android phone...there are many ways to skin this cat. Given it's for the bow, a portable speaker
http://www.kohls.com/product/prd-17..._17588969&cpncode=39-2114120-2&CID=shopping15

like this would be awesome. Again, try it, don't like it, return it. Nothing to uninstall.
 
I don't know how they're run on the boat in question, but typically this size Sea Ray will have, for lack of a better term, a drop ceiling in the cabin. Which would obviously allow for running hidden wires direct to a certain spot on deck. But I believe you have a glued-on headliner. Which means you're going to see the wires when you're in the cabin. An idea would be run a connection to the inside of the windshield/dash area. Then plug the speakers in and clamp them onto the bow rail when you want to use them. BUT, now that cord becomes a tripping hazard, unless you used a connection on both sides of the windshield and ran the wire right around the windshield and to the bow rail on both the port and starboard side, directly abeam of the windshield.

If it was me, though, I'd try to make that cordless bluetooth-speaker-thingy work. You could probably use a RAM mount, that stays on the bow rail permanently, to quickly attach and remove the speakers. It would probably offer the cleanest looking appearance and least time-consuming install.

i was just pulling all of the liquids off the boat ahead of a hard freeze. I pulled down the upper trim piece that hides the wiring harness. I can drill down at will and the wires will be easily hidden. My question, if I do do this is how to bring them through the deck.

While I do like the idea of Bluetooth speakers, I don't want to drag them around or have to worry about charging them. Also, I want to use the bow speakers while running to hear the stereo better at lower volume.

Bryan
 
One of my projects this winter will be a modest upgrade of the stereo system. One thing my wife would like would be speakers on the bow as she can hear the stereo while up there unless it is turned way up. What we are looking for is a small set of speakers that we can play at a moderate volume so we can talk and still hear it.

I read in one thread a suggestion of using motorcycle speakers, but I cant find any that would hold up in a marine environment. I looked at wakeboard tower speakers, but they are larger than I want to put up on the bow.

Ideally, I would like a 4" bullet speaker, but I am not sure I will find one. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

Bryan
Kicker KM4 is a marine/power sports coaxial. Plays fine of head-unit power, as well as we've driven them with 75w rms. The have 4" pods available with clamping options that fit bow rail tubing.

 
Kicker KM4 is a marine/power sports coaxial. Plays fine of head-unit power, as well as we've driven them with 75w rms. The have 4" pods available with clamping options that fit bow rail tubing.

Thanks! That is what we found in the thread. How are the wires run on your boat?

Bryan
 
Thanks! That is what we found in the thread. How are the wires run on your boat?

Bryan

Cabling is fished down each rail tube and pops out near the deck. Waterproof deck fitting located between the base of the rail and the nav light. Knowing that the light had a harness and the rail was thru-bolted, I knew access was possible. I prefer the bow rail location, rather then a spot similar to whats in the video. Too much of a traffic area. The pods are plastic and can also be painted of one doesnt want them black. The speakers come with both the charcoal grill pictured, and a white grill.
 
Cabling is fished down each rail tube and pops out near the deck. Waterproof deck fitting located between the base of the rail and the nav light. Knowing that the light had a harness and the rail was thru-bolted, I knew access was possible. I prefer the bow rail location, rather then a spot similar to whats in the video. Too much of a traffic area. The pods are plastic and can also be painted of one doesnt want them black. The speakers come with both the charcoal grill pictured, and a white grill.

Thanks for that. I agree that the railing is the best place for them. I was planning on putting them about a foot behind the second stanchion as I also have my fender holder along the stanchion. I figured that would cover the bow and give them separation for it to sound like a stereo.

I am really glad to hear that the pods can be painted, as I would love to have them white to blend in with the boat.

Bryan
 
There's a couple different ways you can get the wire through the hull. Not an all-inclusive list, but here's a few ideas:

-- You could drill a small hole near the top of the stanchion and run the wire down the inside of the stanchion and through the base plate into the cabin. I believe that the base plate is solid so you'll need to drill through that, as well. But make sure you seal the top hole and the base hole really well to avoid moisture intrusion.

-- The wire can follow the stanchion down the outside, and then use either a waterproof cable thru-hull or a clamshell. It's best to put these on a vertical surface to help alleviate possible water intrusion.

-- Ideally, you'd like to bring the wire into the cabin in a hidden manner... between the head wall and hull side, inside a hanging locker, inside a false ceiling, etc.

-- You could also run the wire forward through the rail (or on the outside) to the forward-most stanchion, which should be above the anchor locker. Leave the horizontal rail, then dive into the vertical stanchion and into the locker. From there, getting a wire aft from the anchor locker is pretty easy as you can hide it behind that "cover-up" piece that hides the interior of the rubrail or even the v-berth backrest.
 
Thanks, Dennis. I was toying with bringing it down through the stanchion base as I was already considering rebedding the hardware on the bow. I figured I could make a good seal that way. I can bring it down anywhere along the gunwale area as it is all behind the upper trim pieces in the cabin. My forward running light come through the deck similarly.

Bryan
 

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