Bow Mount trolling motor on Sea Ray 190

[Powellclipper]

Hi all, this is my first post here. I am the proud owner of a 2001 Sea Ray 190. Its not perfect, but its a good boat for what we use it for. Good enough that I don't wanna sell it for the realistic price it will go for. Also good enough in that I can't afford the fishing machine I want.

Here's my conundrum. I have read thread after thread of posters mounting trolling motors on the bow. However, none of them have that pesky bow compartment that sits dead center and is actually quite useful. My plan is to purchase a beefy enough trolling motor with a bracket that allows the motor to be removed, but as to how I can mount that heavy of a unit next to a compartment I have no idea. I have contemplated it for about 2 years now, and my pea brain can't handle it. Sad thing is, I'm a carpenter by trade who knows a bunch of welders

The boat is used primarily at Lake Powell and the chop can be quite pushy. Particularly when trying to stay stationary over a ball of stripers.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Swim platform mount? Seen a lot like yours with a ‘kicker’ motor on platform

 

[Powellclipper]

Thanks for the response. Ill check it out.

 

[GypsmJim]

What does a "trolling motor" mean to you? On one hand it is an electric motor that is used to maneuver around the shore line while fishing the weed beds. On the other hand it is a gas engine that is used to propel the boat forward at a given speed while the fisherman "Trolls" a line out back.

If an electric is the goal, don't mount it on the transom. Been there, done that. A bow mount with a foot pedal is the only viable option.

If the latter is the goal, it needs to be on a sturdy mount, with a SS rod attached to the main engine for steering. Mounting a gas engine on a swim platform is a cause for concern.

 

[Powellclipper]

Its for working weed beds and spotlocking out in open water over suspended fish. I troll with the main engine. Most fuel efficient no. Will I run twins or single with a 10 horse kicker on the next boat in case of a non start or failure, you bet.

Didnt hit me that that was the intention of the earlier poster. I should have given more information in my original post. Think of largemouth bass applications.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You're definitely going to have to get creative with the mount. Probably something similar to this that allows the mount to go off the side of the boat at the bow. I think you have enough room (flat space) between the anchor locker and bow light to put part of the mount there. Then you can add a spacer/adapter to match the angle of the side of the bow to better support the mount.

Not really exactly like this, of course, but I think this will get you going in the right direction?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I7LrLkjUFVe53C4_uBdG6UtUiv0dCCJl/view?usp=sharing

 

[Powellclipper]

Thanks for the photo. Went out and looked at it again today and the area you described has the most flat surface-area up front. Never thought about taking it out the side. More of a 90 degree angle from the midline of the boat?

One more question. The fiberglass is thin on the top side of the anchor compartment. Not so thin as to discourage somebody stepping on it, as there is a rough texture on the bow (that's what I'm assuming anyway) Good and bad. I can get in there good enough to figure out backing, probably aluminum or stainless steel for a through bolt application, but is that fiberglass thick enough to handle the torque of an 80lb thrust motor? I have no clue about how to judge the structural integrity of fiberglass.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I wouldn't be worried about that area and the minimal torque that is being relayed up that area. First, some of the torque will be lost on it's way up to the mounting plate - then, the plate is quite substantial and spreads the load out over a large area. That said, I'd personally use a backer plate, as well - just for "best practice". A piece of HDPE would work with some fender washers, as well. Really, though, just about anything will work perfectly well as a backer.

Yes, roughly a 90* angle from the midline.

 

[Arminius]

The bow would have been a difficult spot for my Minn-Kota anchor with fasteners either side of the anchor locker. I put it on the swim platform. Talked with a guy who does your fishing and shooting and he says the Minn-Kota GPS controlled spot locker trolling motor works great. Shouldn't matter where you put it. I used toggle nuts where I could not through bolt.

 

[GypsmJim]

"Pushing" a boat with an electric transom mount will result in very poor steering control. I did it that way once because it was easier. After the 3rd fishing trip I removed it.

Electrics are so popular because they get you where you want with little effort. But they only perform well when bow mounted so you can "pull" the boat and steer it accordingly.

Pieces of 1/2" thick starboard can be cut and fabricated to make a flat mount that can be put anywhere. The smaller SPX models have a bow mount as an option in the fishing package. The front deck is anything but flat. Maybe you can google a picture somewhere.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The bow would have been a difficult spot for my Minn-Kota anchor with fasteners either side of the anchor locker. I put it on the swim platform. Talked with a guy who does your fishing and shooting and he says the Minn-Kota GPS controlled spot locker trolling motor works great. Shouldn't matter where you put it. I used toggle nuts where I could not through bolt.

A trolling motor mounted on the stern (along with a big anchor setup that's right in the way of the walk-thru to your cockpit creating a large tripping hazzard ) is no good. It would make the control of the boat absolutely horrible.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The smaller SPX models have a bow mount as an option in the fishing package. The front deck is anything but flat. Maybe you can google a picture somewhere.

Like the one I linked to for him, Jim? Sorry, couldn't resist the small jab

 

[GypsmJim]

Like the one I linked to for him, Jim? Sorry, couldn't resist the small jab

I dunno. Was your link for a SeaRay 190?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I dunno. Was your link for a SeaRay 190?

You mean that you don't recongnize that it's a boat like yours from the angle of the deck at the bow and placement of the cleat relative to the snaps? Yes, I'm being a bit sarcastic there But, yes, it's a 190.

 

[Powellclipper]

Fellers, I learned what I needed to from the picture. Thank you. All of these points are valid. Ill be around the boat today (have it at a storage facility while I build the shop) I'm gonna look at a couple things to see if I have any more questions

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just to throw out another idea... use PVC board (from Home Depot) instead of starboard/HDPE for the "shim" if you need more than one thickness. PVC board, like a 1x8 (or whatever width you need), can be glued together with PVC cement to make the shim thicker - then shape.

 

[Arminius]

If the problem is the anchor locker, you could always abandon it and toggle bolt or solvent glue the lid down, then use the lid as the trolling motor base.

 

[blaster]

There is another mounting option pictured in the post by BryanH.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/trolling-motor.40068/

I would not recommend mounting a motor to the anchor locker as it will spring the hinge or rip the lid entirely off. I’m not sure if that was the mounting location being considered. It is a challenge to keep the anchor locker usable and find the space to bow mount a trolling motor.

Look at the motor mounting systems for each manufacturer of trolling motor. I found that there different footprints and mounting options. A removable motor which you can easily stow is advantageous in keeping the bow clean when you aren’t fishing. Running extra batteries, their weight, and their location is also something to be considered. I would get a plug setup to quickly disconnect and stow the motor. Wireless control is another option that will give you exactly what you are looking for.

all of this comes with a cost but if it is in the budget you won’t be disappointed.

 

[Arminius]

I used and removed some 3M 5200 adhesive caulk recently and was impressed by the tenacity of the product. I think you could thoroughly clean out the lid's mating surfaces and bond it down with 5200. Mount your trolling motor to that lid as I don't think it would be coming back up.