I have located a late model Sundancer that has bottom paint applied up to and around the IO ring and does not have the 1" to 1.5" spacing on the transom around the IO. Is this something I should steer clear of because of corrosion issues? I have been told it is not a big deal providing the boat is operated in fresh water. Not sure about this based on my research.
Bottom Paint
- Thread starter wind954
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Craig
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- Feb 8, 2007
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Never was a big deal for me. There are paints you can use now that mitigate this issue also.
Is there currently any corrosion?
The problem (may) occurs when the bottom paint that was used has metals in it. Many newer formulations contain no metals, so no issues. Find out what paint was used. If needed, just sand/scrape it away.
It would be "less" of an issue in fresh water, but it does not totally negate the problem.
The problem (may) occurs when the bottom paint that was used has metals in it. Many newer formulations contain no metals, so no issues. Find out what paint was used. If needed, just sand/scrape it away.
It would be "less" of an issue in fresh water, but it does not totally negate the problem.
- Oct 6, 2006
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It probably isn't a big deal to Craig because his boat isn't an I/O, but it is a big deal if the bottom paint touching the out drives has a metallic anti-fouling component in it like copper or tin. This is a recipe for a dissimilar metal corrosion perfect storm in which your out drive and transom assy can dissolve before you eyes.
If you are shopping and are interested in the boat, then have it hauled out of the water and get a Mercruiser mechanic to survey the out drive and transom assembly. If you buy the boat, I would strip the paint touching the transom assembly and repaint it leaving the 3/4" gap between the bottom paint and the outdrive.
Corrosion potential is to a large degree a local variable. We've seen some freshwater boats moved to the Gulf Coast with the outdrives completely eaten up with corrosion while others run from freshwater locations, but stored on a lift or trailer were pristine.
Feel like a gamble on $6000-$12,000 worth of outdrives? I wouldn't either.
If you are shopping and are interested in the boat, then have it hauled out of the water and get a Mercruiser mechanic to survey the out drive and transom assembly. If you buy the boat, I would strip the paint touching the transom assembly and repaint it leaving the 3/4" gap between the bottom paint and the outdrive.
Corrosion potential is to a large degree a local variable. We've seen some freshwater boats moved to the Gulf Coast with the outdrives completely eaten up with corrosion while others run from freshwater locations, but stored on a lift or trailer were pristine.
Feel like a gamble on $6000-$12,000 worth of outdrives? I wouldn't either.
Craig
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- Feb 8, 2007
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My current boat is inboard. Had a B3 for many years.(the same one) The brackish water in the Chesapeake never caused me an issue not having the stripe. My dealer didn't do it. Some around here do it, some don't. The big ss prop on a B3 makes it particularly susceptible. My hull potential without the stripe stayed within recommended readings. You should test frequently.
As Frank states, many variables. High hull potential can be caused by many factors, bottom paint touching the drive, stray currents from the marina, insufficient amount of anodes, wrong anode material, salinity, location, temperature, ect. Wasn't suggesting it be ignored. Sorry. Proper maintenance and anode material are crucial.
If your hull potential is high, review and correct as many variables as you can. I've seen all the bases covered and readings off the chart. Mercruiser put a lot more anodes on later models which helped considerably.
In salt water I would constantly monitor it.
Craig
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All the better. Just follow recommendations for maintenance. Good luck.
