BLISTERS - ahhh, HELP!

It's true It can be done. Just be prepared to make it a season long project. Here is a large blister project we did last summer. It takes time.. Most of all. Be sure the blisters are dry. If there is any bacteria left it will re form in no time. DRY DRY DRY...... It's all about getting it all.. This project took about 100 Hr's actual working time 5 Months total time just on the bottom.
 

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You had "funny" covered just fine without the bacteria.
 
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OK, I really hope this post does not come off as me being a a$$. I’m honestly trying to help.
I suggest you get your information together then look at your alternatives.
You may decide that you can do it but it’s just not worth it.

Possible alternatives:
#1) Repair / restore this boat.
#2) Give the boat back to the marina.
#3) Sell the boat for parts.
#4) Run the boat ‘as-is.’ Have fun and know the fun will be short lived.

With boat restorations I try my best to make sure people know up front that they rarely make economic sense even if the labor and initial boat is free.
 
This isn't a "complex" repair. Just some elbow grease and time. Heck if I got a "free" boat, had the time, someplace to do it, I would do it.
 
Dude, I can put that sucker on my balcony and knock it out in no time.

Actually, I just looked at my schedule... you're right.

The GF also put the no way on the balcony thing.
 
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Blisters are a labor intensive job, but not a hard job. If this is this a project boat and do you have anyplace to store it inside, anticipate a few months of work a few hours per week allowing ample time for the hull to dry out.

Do not rule out truck bedliner material as a barrier coat. The texture on a truck bed is purely a function of application technique, not material.
 
Hey Gary.............where are you on your list of dumbest comments?

This one should be no. 1......."Do not rule out truck bedliner material as a barrier coat. The texture on a truck bed is purely a function of application technique, not material."


Truck bed liner is polyurethane. Spraying that on a hull would be just like spraying it with an uneven coat of 3M 5200........ever try to get that stuff off a boat? Can't chemically debond it; can't plane it off without getting into the glass schedule, the surface will be textured if it is thick enough to stay on, can't scrape it, can't sand it with anything finer than 16 grit wheels on a big sander since it fills the paper immediately, can't bottom paint it and it won't prevent bottom growth and slime.

Bedliner material won't fix the problem just hide it for a while........then what are you going to do because that stuff isn't coming off?

As dpmulvey said in the first part of his post......this isn't a hard job, it just takes some time. Do it right and save the boat.
__________________
 
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J.T. Dont know what shape the rest of the boat is in, but if it is operable, don't be afraid to use it for the season if you want. If the boat needs other work, I would open the blisters up the first thing you do, let them dry while you complete the rest of the work on the boat. Some hot Delta summer weather will help with that. Then finish the bottom and go boating. I have heard that the gunk in the blisters is pretty nasty so be sure to protect your self.
 
Presentation said:
OK, I really hope this post does not come off as me being a a$$. I’m honestly trying to help.
I suggest you get your information together then look at your alternatives.
You may decide that you can do it but it’s just not worth it.

Possible alternatives:
#1) Repair / restore this boat.
#2) Give the boat back to the marina.
#3) Sell the boat for parts.
#4) Run the boat ‘as-is.’ Have fun and know the fun will be short lived.

With boat restorations I try my best to make sure people know up front that they rarely make economic sense even if the labor and initial boat is free.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the feedback, and no, I understand you are trying to help. I totally agree with you on those alternatives. Right now we are talking to a few different people about this to see what they think. The surveyor said yesterday that the boat overall is 'very solid' and that we should not be too worried about these because they are not 'into' the gelcoat but rather are under the bottom paint..... which makes me feel better. Right now we could go either way, not sure. I know we can sell it for a few thousand to a fisherman out here who wants it and doesn't care about survey, so worst case we'll make a few bucks. We'll see what happens, but at this point based on survey it appears this one is a keeper and damage isn't as bad as originally thought. Phew.... :)
 
dpmulvey said:
Blisters are a labor intensive job, but not a hard job. If this is this a project boat and do you have anyplace to store it inside, anticipate a few months of work a few hours per week allowing ample time for the hull to dry out.

Do not rule out truck bedliner material as a barrier coat. The texture on a truck bed is purely a function of application technique, not material.
Click to expand...

Congratulations... you made the list:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27394&page=11
 
templerj said:
Thanks for the feedback, and no, I understand you are trying to help. I totally agree with you on those alternatives. Right now we are talking to a few different people about this to see what they think. The surveyor said yesterday that the boat overall is 'very solid' and that we should not be too worried about these because they are not 'into' the gelcoat but rather are under the bottom paint..... which makes me feel better. Right now we could go either way, not sure. I know we can sell it for a few thousand to a fisherman out here who wants it and doesn't care about survey, so worst case we'll make a few bucks. We'll see what happens, but at this point based on survey it appears this one is a keeper and damage isn't as bad as originally thought. Phew.... :)
Click to expand...

If they're not "into the gelcoat" they're not osmotic blisters...
I've had a few paint blisters before, but never seen them that bad. I assume your surveyor took adequate time and checked more than a few of them. That's good news overall, but I'd still strip the bottom if you're going to keep the boat. You can sand out the paint blisters and recoat, but you're going to be left with a very uneven, cratered bottom that's going to cost you some performance.

Plenty of threads on the "DIY" bottom paint stripping vs. media/sand blasting. If you're a real die-hard you can DIY, I left mine for the sandblasting machine...

Good news, and good luck.
 
templerj said:
Thanks for the feedback, and no, I understand you are trying to help. I totally agree with you on those alternatives. Right now we are talking to a few different people about this to see what they think. The surveyor said yesterday that the boat overall is 'very solid' and that we should not be too worried about these because they are not 'into' the gelcoat but rather are under the bottom paint..... which makes me feel better. Right now we could go either way, not sure. I know we can sell it for a few thousand to a fisherman out here who wants it and doesn't care about survey, so worst case we'll make a few bucks. We'll see what happens, but at this point based on survey it appears this one is a keeper and damage isn't as bad as originally thought. Phew.... :)
Click to expand...

J.T. - If you look at your last picture of your orginal post you can see the typical large osmosic blister (silver dollar size to sand dollar size) with the small paint size blister over the top of it. These large blisters seem to be what happens on these boats a pose to what we are seeing in the picture. They are great boats and worth the effort to restore and are more stout than anything built today but that said it takes time,talent, and money - pick any two to complete and enjoy your endevors.
 
JT.
Since the blisters are only in the bottom paint, just drive the boat and enjoy it. You don't actually "need" bottom paint, but it is nice to have because it prevents fouling---i.e. keeps algae and other plant life from growing on the bottom. If the boat is free, just drive it. A repaint of the anti-fouling bottom paint is certainly a managable task to do yourself. Much cheaper than fiberglass work! Hell, I had blisters on the bottom of my old Seville for about 10 years and never had any issues with leaking or soft spots. My advice, just drive the boat!!!
Matt
 
Thanks to everyone for all of the info and advice.
Just spoke to the manager at the marina repair shop where the boat is currently in dry dock and got a quote to have the bottom sand blasted, blisters worked on, new barrier coat and then new bottom paint...... considering just spending the money and getting it done (since it is already out of the water, the survey was great aside from these blisters, and I intend to keep the boat for a few years and will have address this eventually anyways). We'll see. Was really happy to get the great results back from the survey too - very relieved! :)

Also took 4 days and buffed out the entire boat (deck down, mostly the hull and transom) and used rubbing compound and another liquid after that. The fiberglass cleaned up great and looks like new! Removed the swimstep as well and beginning to sand that down to redo the teak on it.....

Pulled out the bad engine on Saturday and getting the new engine in 2 weeks....

My wrist is sore from writing so many checks for all of these things! :) :smt038
 
JT -
I have 78 300 weekender also. I'd like to see how the rest of the boat looks. I did the Interprotect 3000 last year and so far no problems. Good Luck.
 
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