Best way to heat untill I pull it out

hillsideshortleg

Active Member
Feb 5, 2012
254
Lake Pend Orielle, Idaho
Boat Info
92 Express Cruiser /89 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer
Engines
489s / 350's Mercruiser drives
I am trying to delay pulling our 89 280 Sundancer with a camper top on it. Where would be the best place to place heater(s) until we pull it. Cabin, Helm or engine compartment? I would like to leave it in till late November unless we hear of a hard freeze. Any comments?
 
Wish i could help. I pull it out after every use... and wash it of course.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
The important piece of information is....What kind of temperatures do you see in late November?

I would think that in your area (Idaho) an ignition protected automatic bilge heater may be in order. I would be far more concerned with the engine compartment than the cabin or helm area. But again, if you expect freezing temperatures for days on end, you'll need a better plan.
 
To be on the safe side, I would winterize the fresh water system, hot water heater and head system. Then you can use an ignition-protected bilge heater... as long as you can get to the boat quickly enough should there be an extended power failure. I wouldn't think a heater in the cockpit would work well enough - plus you're not there to monitor it (fire hazard).
 
We go up every weekend and if I saw it was going to get into the low 20s we would pull it before it got that cold. We have AC heaters and shore power. My mind says to keep it in the engine compartment. But I was wondering how much heat is transferred from the water into the bottom of the boat. Very much.
Thanks in advance.
 
If I am stating the obvious, I apologize, but you need to purchase a special bilge heater for the ER. Otherwise it could spark and blow up your boat!!!
 
When it gets cold here before I pull the boat I just pull the drain plugs and drain the block, manifolds and the PS cooler. That's what I did on my old boat anyways. Now I have closed cooling and don't need to do the block. Takes less than 15 minutes to do.
 
A good piece of advice I got right here on CSR: check your insurance policy for mention of whether use of space heaters nullifies any part of your coverage, so you know your liability for whatever decision you make.

Ignition protected bilge heater for sure, plus cabin heater if you choose not to winterize water system/head like Dennis suggests. Unlike the ER, the cabin doesn't get substantial benefit from being in the water. Leave the door to the head open, leave the lid up on the head, open head door, open the under sink cabinets in head and galley--just like you would in a house--so the warmed air can circulate to the plumbing. If your head uses raw water intake, you might want to close the seacock each time you leave the boat, too, as an extra precaution.

Seal the ER exhaust vents, as well, to help keep the heat in. You can use sponges/foam, non-marring tape--just remember to remove if you decide to launch the boat.
 
Watch the water temp. You can use your onboard heat system until the water temp falls below 45 degrees. If you use a heater, spend the extra money and get a heater specifically for bilges.
 
Thanks for all the tips. It looks like I need a bilge heater and the 100 watt light bulb I was thinking of using wouldn't be the way to go. LOL
 
Thanks for all the tips. It looks like I need a bilge heater and the 100 watt light bulb I was thinking of using wouldn't be the way to go. LOL
CSR might have saved your boat's--or your family's--life!

I love this crew!
 
Something I forgot--if you do use a space heater in the cabin, analog may be better than digital, depending on how advanced the digital is. Analog/"old school" heaters will come back on after a power outage and use the same settings as before the outage. Some digital models lose their settings so either don't turn on again, or turn on at default settings, which may not be ideal.
 

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