Best caulk or sealant for panel seams?

Ozshadow

Member
Jul 14, 2013
166
Lake St. Clair
Boat Info
99 Sundancer 270 wide
Engines
7.4 mpi B3
I have a number of areas needing new caulk or sealant. These are not critical areas, but I want something that will last, not turn colors, and is relatively easy to work.

These are not areas requiring 4200. The locations are things like where the cockpit seating base meets the cockpit wall, the trim above the swim platform and around the transom locker, etc.
 
It sounds like you answered your own question. Why not use 4200?
 
Use life caulk. Its perfect for what you describe and lasts in sun and harsh weather.
 
When I shipped my 48 Sundancer I had to have the arch removed. I put it back on but have yet to seal it and I was going to use 4200. Now after reading that it yellows. having second thoughts. Anyone know what Sea Ray uses for this job at the factory? Do you all believe Life Seal is a better option than 4200? Thanks!
 
Hopefully Rusty will answer this for you from a factory perspective. When I had mine shipped in and reattached, they used 4200 on the inside to seal the fender washers (I believe there were 4) and then Life Seal on the exterior as 4200 will yellow in the sun.
 
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Most yacht manufacturers are using Sika products https://www.sika.com/en/solutions_p...arine-market/marine/leisure-boats-yachts.html
The 3M 4000 and 5000 products are poly-urethane adhesives and not designed to tool as a nice looking joint; they skin very fast and tend to drag and ball up when smoothing. I would not use the 3M adhesives for a joint that is exposed and needs to look good.
I had the entire boat's caulking stripped out and re-caulked last year and they used Sikaflex 295UV; the results are excellent.
 
I had the entire boat's caulking stripped out and re-caulked last year and they used Sikaflex 295UV; the results are excellent

3M 4000UV is not a polyurethane caulk but rather it is a polyether which is the only marine sealant suitable for both above and below the waterline that brings no risk of incompatibility, whether sealing fiberglass, metal, wood, or plastic. (Note: Multi-Caulk is not safe for ABS or Lexan plastics.) 3M 4000 UV's low odor and easier cleanup make it more pleasant to use than the other curing sealants. However, with a tensile strength similar to the low-strength polyurethanes, it will deliver a stronger bond than desirable for bedding applications where future disassembly is likely.

According the the manufacturers website, "SIKAFLEX 295 UV ADHESIVE / SEALANT – Sikaflex®-295UV is a one-component polyurethane adhesive/sealant specifically formulated for bonding acrylic and polycarbonate windows and hatches. It is also an excellent color stable, non-chalking sealant for general marine sealing. Product is sold by the 10 oz. tube.

Sikaflex®-295 UV black is intended to be used as an adhesive and/or sealant in bonding applications for polycarbonate windows and acrylic (PMMA) windows. Black: Use in conjunction with Sika®-Cleaner 226 and Sika® Primer 209N.

Sikaflex®-295 UV white is intended to be used as a sealant in open joints between glass, ceramics, metals, many plastics, fiberglass and many types of paint.

Sikaflex®-295 is recommended for professional use only and may require a primer or activator dependent on application."

When you say "they re-caulked using Sikaflex®-295," I am assuming they were "professional"?
 
They used Sikaflex 295UV on all of the FRP joints; they were "professional". Per the installers and Sika a clean prepared gelcoat substrate does not require primer. We did not re-caulk any of the glass. They did, however rebed the hatches and portlites and used the 295UV for that also.
 
They used Sikaflex 295UV on all of the FRP joints; they were "professional". Per the installers and Sika a clean prepared gelcoat substrate does not require primer. We did not re-caulk any of the glass. They did, however rebed the hatches and portlites and used the 295UV for that also.
Im afraid to ask, but what did the re-caulking cost? I need to most likely do mine again soon. I like the idea of paying someone else to perform. You can PM me the numbers versus put on the open forum. Thanks,
 
Reviving an older thread here....

Called SeaRay yesterday and for the joints, Sea Ray recommended Sikaflex 521 UV.
Has anyone used this?

The Sika website seems to recommend Sikaflex 591. And from the thread here, seems people have used 295 UV.

Need to re-do some of the joints, they are non-structural. Like the joint where the bilge vents are attached to the gunwale, as an example..

How has the performance been for those who used any of these and /or the ones mentioned above?
 
Reviving an older thread here....

Called SeaRay yesterday and for the joints, Sea Ray recommended Sikaflex 521 UV.
Has anyone used this?

The Sika website seems to recommend Sikaflex 591. And from the thread here, seems people have used 295 UV.

Need to re-do some of the joints, they are non-structural. Like the joint where the bilge vents are attached to the gunwale, as an example..

How has the performance been for those who used any of these and /or the ones mentioned above?

I have not, however I've been using Seal Bond SB105 for anything above the waterline for the past 3 years and have had excellent results. It doesn't yellow, gray or hold dirt like many of the others. I use the white where needed, and then used the black where the glass meets the gel coat and it looks great. This is the same product Tiara uses. I believe you can source it on Amazon.

-Tom
 
I have not, however I've been using Seal Bond SB105 for anything above the waterline for the past 3 years and have had excellent results. It doesn't yellow, gray or hold dirt like many of the others. I use the white where needed, and then used the black where the glass meets the gel coat and it looks great. This is the same product Tiara uses. I believe you can source it on Amazon.

-Tom
Thanks Tom
Silly question, but so far no Mold/Mildew showed up with that I assume?

Shaps
 
Thanks Tom
Silly question, but so far no Mold/Mildew showed up with that I assume?

Shaps

Absolutely none. Extremely pleased with the product. I believe I have their technical data sheet if you'd like to PM me your e-mail.

-Tom
 
Absolutely none. Extremely pleased with the product. I believe I have their technical data sheet if you'd like to PM me your e-mail.

-Tom

PM Sent

Thank you
 
Absolutely none. Extremely pleased with the product. I believe I have their technical data sheet if you'd like to PM me your e-mail.

-Tom
Tom, what did you use or how did you clean off the old caulking? Any tips or tricks you can share?
 
Tom, what did you use or how did you clean off the old caulking? Any tips or tricks you can share?

It would probably be easier to share what I didn't use! I used lots of fresh razor blades, and about every chemical I could find...mineral spirits, acetone, SD-20, etc... If I remember acetone seemed to work the best.

-Tom
 
It would probably be easier to share what I didn't use! I used lots of fresh razor blades, and about every chemical I could find...mineral spirits, acetone, SD-20, etc... If I remember acetone seemed to work the best.

-Tom
lol...I hear ya..sounds like the perfect job for my nephew.
 
Wow, this is the first time I've heard of Seal Bond SB105. Well, that's not surprising. I only recently bought my first boat to go out on my own or with my son from time to time. So far, my boat is as good as new, and everything is holding up well. But I understand that sooner or later repairs will have to be made. I thought you could just use even the best countertop sealant. But it seems you have to use a specialised one. As far as I understand, is it paint that you apply over the sealer? Or is it a sealant? Is it used in the same way as any building sealant?
 
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Wow, this is the first time I've heard of Seal Bond SB105. I understand that this is the paint that you apply over the sealant? Or is it a sealant?

It's a sealant, caulk.
 

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