BAd Starter? Solenoid? Neutral Safety SW?

UPDATE - I cleaned all my battery connections, with both a wire brush and a solvent and replaced both batteries with brand new Optima Blue Top. still no cranking, all a I get is a qk sounding alarm that immediately goes off. Also, I thought I was hearing a click, but that is when I was trying to turn the key myself and listen to try to hear anything from the engine compartment. I now have my wife up at the operators seat, turning the key for me as I test and listen. below is what steps I performed and the lights that I received when checking things with a test light.

1 - I ck'd all fuses in the panel under the steering wheel - All tested good.

2 - have my wife turn the key while I am in the Engine Bay - I hear no click from the Slave Solenoid, however I do hear a qk alarm tone, that immediately goes away.

3 - Grab your test light and headed for the back of the instrument panel. I Hooked the clip to a good ground and then
touched the light to the B terminal on the ignition switch (big red or red),the test light did light up. I then moved the test light to the S terminal with the yellow/red wire and then turned the key to the start position. The test light did light up. This told me that my ignition sw. is good.

4 - I now headed to the Engine Bay to test the Slave Solenoid;
attachment.php

I Hooked up my test light to a known good ground (I verified continuity from my Batteries Negative terminal, to the ground lug on the engine and used this ground lug as my ground for testing). I then touched terminal C of the slave solenoid with my test light and had my wife turn the key to the start position again. The light did NOT light up. I then Ck'd for continuity from my Slave Solenoids "D" lug (It's ground lug) to verify that my solenoid had a good ground to it, and it did. This is pretty much where I stopped as my Slave Solenoid does not appear to be getting Juice. I can only think of three things that would / could cause this;

1 - The connection at the main engine harness plug is bad? ( I viewed all my wiring and everything "Looks" good. I also re-seated as many plugs as I could.

2- A bad ground, or no ground. I did verify that my Slave Solenoid has a good ground coming to it.

3 - A bad neutral safety switch.

4 - A bad connection between the ignition switch and the slave solenoid.

I am wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this, or am I missing something?

I do see a switch, in the engine compartment that is toggled by teh transmission linkage. It has two purple wires coming on and out of it. I am not sure if this is the Neutral Safety Switch or not. I thought the Neutral Safety Switch for this boat, was in the throttle / transmission switch up top near the steering wheel.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Your neutral safety switch may be between the r/y from key switch to slave, not positive.
 
Do you know if it could be on the shift linkage assembly that is mounted on the engine? Or if it is definitely inside the shift / throttle handle assembly at the helm?
 
I had a 2006 Bravo and it was on the shift plate attached to the manifold. My 99's located on the shifter.
 
if this is an outdrive the neutral safety is in the control box, move the selector while holding the key in start position, If nothing look behind the panel for 2 yellow/red stripe wires and short them together, then try the key switch.
 
if this is an outdrive the neutral safety is in the control box, move the selector while holding the key in start position, If nothing look behind the panel for 2 yellow/red stripe wires and short them together, then try the key switch.

Thank you, I will go ck now. I do have a question though, inside the engine compartment, where the Forward / reverse cables mount, there is a SW with a male plunger that goes in and out, based on the cam of the shift cable housing assembly. What would that be? Is that my Neutral Safety SW? it has two purple wires.
 
if this is an outdrive the neutral safety is in the control box, move the selector while holding the key in start position, If nothing look behind the panel for 2 yellow/red stripe wires and short them together, then try the key switch.

So, I went out and tested some more as the sw. With the two purple wires, In the Engine bay, mounted so as to be actuated, or not, by the forward / reverse drive linkage had me perplexed and curious. I removed the switch, sprayed the plunger housing as best I could with Electronics circuit cleaner and then reinstalled it. I snugged it back up and now find, that with this sw cleaned and adjusted in what seems to be the correct position, now the solenoid does click when turning the key to the start position. That said, I began testing all over again, please see below;

1 - I now headed to the Engine Bay to test the Slave Solenoid;
attachment.php

I Hooked up my test light to a known good ground (I verified continuity from my Batteries Negative terminal, to the ground lug on the engine and used this ground lug as my ground for testing). I then touched terminal C of the slave solenoid with my test light and had my wife turn the key to the start position again. The light DOES light up. This is good as I now am getting Juice to my Solenoid.

2 - I then touched my test light on terminal A, With the key in the start position and my test light did not light.

3 - I then tried to jump terminals A and B and have my wife turn the key switch to the start position, but the motor did not crank.

These tests make me think that my slave solenoid is bad, however, in my past experiences with solenoids, with cars, if you jumped the two poles and it cranked, that told you that you have a bad solenoid. In this case I am thinking it is bad because the solenoid does not appear to be energized across it, even though it has the potential on terminal C.


Any input would be appreciated.
 
scoflaw, are you saying that based on my troubleshooting, it sounds like I have a bad slave solenoid?
 
If the batteries are good, and you have checked the connections at the battery posts to make sure they are clean and tight, and when you turn the key and it just goes click, then it is most likely a bad Starter Solenoid. Not the Slave solenoid which has no moving parts and doesn't make any noise. The solenoid on top of the starter is most likely bad. I just had the same problem with my 72 SRV 190. Replaced the starter solenoid and problem solved.
 
If the batteries are good, and you have checked the connections at the battery posts to make sure they are clean and tight, and when you turn the key and it just goes click, then it is most likely a bad Starter Solenoid. Not the Slave solenoid which has no moving parts and doesn't make any noise. The solenoid on top of the starter is most likely bad. I just had the same problem with my 72 SRV 190. Replaced the starter solenoid and problem solved.
Thanks Ike, however I am not getting juice across the slave Solenoid, just to it in the "C" terminal. Also, the click is definitely coming from the slave solenoid. Does that change things in your opinion, or do you think it is still teh SOlenoid on the starter?
 
If the batteries are good, and you have checked the connections at the battery posts to make sure they are clean and tight, and when you turn the key and it just goes click, then it is most likely a bad Starter Solenoid. Not the Slave solenoid which has no moving parts and doesn't make any noise. The solenoid on top of the starter is most likely bad. I just had the same problem with my 72 SRV 190. Replaced the starter solenoid and problem solved.
Bad info Ike.. of course there are contacts inside this part
 
All, I found this tread and after reading found it might help solve my issue. Last summer my boat would not start sometimes. It would click when I turn the key but not turn over. After attempting the key several times it would finally start. These are symptoms of a starter going bad on a car. I replaced the starter and now all I get is the "Click". I have not done the above circuit checks but based on the symptoms and path above I need to start with the slave solenoid. Also, secondary question every wiring diagram for my boat shows I have the starter wired correct ....except for an additional "Red Wire" not the battery feed hanging around. Connected or not the starter will not turn over. Based on the length and connector it looks like it should be connected to the hot terminal on the starter. Can anyone advise. Specs: 2000 180BR 181 3.0L bravo II
 
All, I found this tread and after reading found it might help solve my issue. Last summer my boat would not start sometimes. It would click when I turn the key but not turn over. After attempting the key several times it would finally start. These are symptoms of a starter going bad on a car. I replaced the starter and now all I get is the "Click". I have not done the above circuit checks but based on the symptoms and path above I need to start with the slave solenoid. Also, secondary question every wiring diagram for my boat shows I have the starter wired correct ....except for an additional "Red Wire" not the battery feed hanging around. Connected or not the starter will not turn over. Based on the length and connector it looks like it should be connected to the hot terminal on the starter. Can anyone advise. Specs: 2000 180BR 181 3.0L bravo II
Yes it goes to the hot terminal with all the others except the small r/y that goes on the inboard small terminal.
Slaves don't seem to last very long, probably your problem
 
scoflaw and FLBoater66 thank you both for the quick responses. I am new to this forum but finding many of the conversations very helpful.
 
scoflaw and FLBoater66 thank you both for the quick responses. I am new to this forum but finding many of the conversations very helpful.
You are very welcome. I am somewhat new to the thread, and find it to he GREAT!
 

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