QT1
Active Member
- Oct 20, 2016
- 648
- Boat Info
- 1990 350 Sundancer, "Quality Time II".
- Engines
- 454 Mercruisers, performance parts modified by PO.
Thank you for the cross reference Creekwood. It really helps to have dimensions.
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You are exactly on the right track. I'm doing the same thing. Just be sure to research the Walmart fridge you buy. They sell as cheap as$48.00. . I'm getting one today for am upcoming outing.Thanks all for the enlightening info on keeping the fridge on always. Now, I find out from the previous owner he never used the fridge and I have it on the first day, it gets cold. I check on it yesterday evening, nothing. One of our association members suggested I take measurements and purchase one from Walmart or Home Depot. It only made sense to me for these reasons:
Fridge is on A/C while on shore power.
Fridge operates on A/C when genny is running(far and few between).
Could always use a cooler or those blue ice packs for day tripping.
Am I on the right track, verses paying 800-1200 for a new dual voltage fridge?
I installed the inverter in the narrow closet below in the cabin. I removed the starboard panel in the forward birth and ran the wires from the batteries which are mounted in the forward center hatch through the area exposed and into the closet and hooked it all up. I then reinstalled the panel and all wires are hidden. The inverter is mounted close to the door on the forward wall of the closet. Leaves no room to hang stuff but is close to the galley if I want to run any other items and is easy to reach the on/off switch on the inverter. My inverter is a 2000/4000 size so is plently large to handle anything I use, don't get to small of one at least a 1000 watt to handle the fridge a tv or whatever. My inverter has 2 120 plugs plus 2 12 volt socket plugs and usb ports for a computer or what not, cost was about 100.00 if I remember.
The power supply for my norcold contains 2 fuses glass type solder fitted in the circuit board. Great place to start my fridges problem was the switch and rheostat assembly inside the fridge .I couldn't find the part so made a new oneHave you checked the fuse (12V) on the fridge? There should be one, either obvious or in the fridges power supply. Check if power to the fuse and on the other side of it. Also, make sure there isn't a breaker in the power panel that is off, tripped or corroded as above. Seems simple - but was at a marina couple years ago and the boat 2 slips down fridge stopped working on the 12V side. So he got a NEW one from the local marine store. This is when he asked for help to remove the old one and install the new one. I asked him did he check the fuse, answer "what fuse?" Pulled it out of the cabinet, opened the power supply and there it was, a blown fuse. New fuse - problem fixed. Savings $900.00.
The power supply for my Norcold contains 2 fuses glass type solder fitted in the circuit board. Great place to start my fridges problem was the switch and rheostat assembly inside the fridge. I couldn't find the part so made a new one
The power supply for my norcold contains 2 fuses glass type solder fitted in the circuit board. Great place to start my fridges problem was the switch and rheostat assembly inside the fridge .I couldn't find the part so made a new one
Makes me wonder if my "dead" Norcold fridge was not actually dead? Well its long since cut up in pieces and replaced with a much nicer Nova Kool so maybe its good riddance.
It was pretty easy a rocker switch and rheostat fitted into the little control housing pretty easily with a little wiring I salvage what is good from things before they get thrown away I salvaged the stat from an old heater some years ago and just had to dig a little through by box of electrical partsWell, aren't you a clever McGyver! My hat is off to you. I admire mechanics who fix things as opposed to "Part Changers"