Autopilot Question

J

Jims380DA

Member
Mar 5, 2007
286
CT
Boat Info
2000 Sea Ray 380DA, Kohler Gen
Engines
8.1L 496 MerCruiser
I was told that my autopilot pump is bad. Kept on tripping fuse after being activated. It was suggested to replace the entire system compared to just the pump. Anyone have any knowledge on this or experienced the same situation? Thanks
 
No need to replace the entire system. I say flush the lines and install a new pump and fluid. Pumps are fairly universal so even if you upgrade the course computer and head in the future chances are the pump you replaced now will work just fine.
 
NotHerDecision said:
No need to replace the entire system. I say flush the lines and install a new pump and fluid. Pumps are fairly universal so even if you upgrade the course computer and head in the future chances are the pump you replaced now will work just fine.
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I would hate to find out after I replaced the pump that it was something else with the system that needs replacement. Seems like most electronics guys just want to take out old system and sell you new.
 
500 bucks versus 2500. Your choice.
 
If it's a Raypilot system then the pump is probably a Type 1 reversing. The course computer drives the pump. You can put a meter across the two wires that go to the pump at the course computer and verify it's electrical operation somewhere on the water.
 
ttmott said:
If it's a Raypilot system then the pump is probably a Type 1 reversing. The course computer drives the pump. You can put a meter across the two wires that go to the pump at the course computer and verify it's electrical operation somewhere on the water.
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Yes it is a Type 1 pump. How would I determine if its electrical component or the pump that's failing? Thanks for your help!
 
I'll be watching this post closely. I have a Raymarine ST8002 and it is giving "current limit" error messages. Research says it could be the pump demanding too much power <pump bad>, then it goes on to say that it could be the control unit. Not much help. I did find that when I use the pwr steering function, the pump runs for just a few seconds then quits, then the error message. So, I'm leaning toward a bad pump vs. elsewhere in the system.

In my search, the A1 pump was closer to $700. I too was thinking it might be better in the long run to replace the entire system. I'm not sure how old the autopilot is, but I've owned the boat 8 years and it has been the only AP I have had. Actually, it's the only piece of electronics I have not replaced.

And the pump does not leak. The motor portion is supposed to be removable without disturbing the hydraulics <no leaks>, and the pump motor seems somewhat universal, much like a windshield wiper motor. Unless I get different advice here, I'm going to remove the motor, disassemble it, and hopefully there is some corrosion I can clean up, clean the brushes, lube, reassemble and see if that helps.
 
The pumps are available used on eBay for 150 and up and new for 500 and up. I understand the concern woth age. Mine is also old. I installed all furuno gear but because the furuno autopilot was 2000+ dollars I also kept my raymarine pilot.
 
Jims380DA said:
Yes it is a Type 1 pump. How would I determine if its electrical component or the pump that's failing? Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Disconnect the AP power. Remove the two wires going to the AP pump from the course computer and make note which terminal the red wire is on. Put a volt meter across the two AP pump terminals on the course computer and turn the unit back on. Command the AP to different rudder positions; if the volt meter goes positive 12 volts in one direction then negative 12 volts in the other direction the unit is probably good.
Next with the AP pump electrically disconnected from the course computer and the rudder centered apply battery power (capable of delivering 20 amps minimum) to the AP pump; it should drive the rudder hard to one side then reverse the battery polarity and the pump should reverse and drive the rudder to the other side. If this happens and the pump runs smoothly the pump is probably good.
 
ttmott said:
Disconnect the AP power. Remove the two wires going to the AP pump from the course computer and make note which terminal the red wire is on. Put a volt meter across the two AP pump terminals on the course computer and turn the unit back on. Command the AP to different rudder positions; if the volt meter goes positive 12 volts in one direction then negative 12 volts in the other direction the unit is probably good.
Next with the AP pump electrically disconnected from the course computer and the rudder centered apply battery power (capable of delivering 20 amps minimum) to the AP pump; it should drive the rudder hard to one side then reverse the battery polarity and the pump should reverse and drive the rudder to the other side. If this happens and the pump runs smoothly the pump is probably good.
Click to expand...

Is this something I can do when the boat out of the water? or should I wait till launch time? Thanks for being so helpful!
 
Jims380DA said:
Is this something I can do when the boat out of the water? or should I wait till launch time? Thanks for being so helpful!
Click to expand...
Not sure - if you have a +/- button or rotary control on the AP head then I think you can change the rudder position when the boat is static.
 
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