I finally put my second battery in and am going to get a perko switch here soon. Does anyone have pics of their setup, specifically cable attachment? The instructions seem pretty straight forward but I would prefer to have pics to reference(or a good thread). I may be overthinking it but does the main + battery cable hook to the COM, then you just match the poles up? It's the "easy" projects that worry me most!
Anyone have pics of their Perko setup?
- Thread starter Shaun77
- Start date
The Battery you want to be Batt-1 goes to (1) and Battery you want to be Batt (2) goes to (2) and everything you want powered to switch goes to COM
Wylie_Tunes
Well-Known Member
If you have an auto-bilge, its B+ wire should be connected directly to the battery, not the C post. This insures the bilge will opporate if neeed, even when the switch is off.
Basic configuration for a 4 position 3 post dual-battery switch
ALL loads, except auto bilge B+, reloate from original battery's B+ post and now connect to C post on switch
Batt-1 B+ to switch post 1 with new cable
Batt-2 B+ to switch post 2 with new cable
Batt-2 GND post to Batt-1 GND post with new cable
orignal GND cable stays on original battery's GND.
Basic configuration for a 4 position 3 post dual-battery switch
ALL loads, except auto bilge B+, reloate from original battery's B+ post and now connect to C post on switch
Batt-1 B+ to switch post 1 with new cable
Batt-2 B+ to switch post 2 with new cable
Batt-2 GND post to Batt-1 GND post with new cable
orignal GND cable stays on original battery's GND.
Thanks Wylie. Think I got it. There are two wires coming directly off the battery and according to the schematic its the bilge and stereo BUT theres a splice point. does that make a difference (if ones on the COM and the others on the B+)So keep the bilge on battery and any further stereo, aux, added lights etc will go to COM? Do I need to do anything with the alternator?
Last edited:
Wylie_Tunes
Well-Known Member
Shaun,
The auto bulge B+ wire will more then likely be a 16 or 14 ga brown wire with a red tracer. It will be the only wire that remains on the original battery's B+ post. If its not connected there and your boat has an auto bilge, then I would track it down to where its terminating, and run it to the battery. Reason being is that where ever it is connecting, may end up becoming switched. It may be connected directly to the starter's main post or the alternators main post, If so, thats OK, it can stay there.
Your alternator's main cable can be connected at one of 2 spots.
A) Directly to the original battery's B+ post. if so, then relocate it to the C post of the switch
B) To the starter's main post. If so, then leave it there. There will be a main battery cable running from that post to the original battery's B+ post. This main cable is one that gets relocated to the switch C post.
That cable going to the BUSS bar - relocate from battery B+ post to switch C post.
With a traditional dual-battery like you are installing, I prefer to have all loads, including stereo, running through the switch by connecting them to the C post. This insures that ALL the audio gear shares the same battery source. This prevents unwanted noise and allows you to select which battery you want to draw from when anchored, leaving one in reserve for starting.
The auto bulge B+ wire will more then likely be a 16 or 14 ga brown wire with a red tracer. It will be the only wire that remains on the original battery's B+ post. If its not connected there and your boat has an auto bilge, then I would track it down to where its terminating, and run it to the battery. Reason being is that where ever it is connecting, may end up becoming switched. It may be connected directly to the starter's main post or the alternators main post, If so, thats OK, it can stay there.
Your alternator's main cable can be connected at one of 2 spots.
A) Directly to the original battery's B+ post. if so, then relocate it to the C post of the switch
B) To the starter's main post. If so, then leave it there. There will be a main battery cable running from that post to the original battery's B+ post. This main cable is one that gets relocated to the switch C post.
That cable going to the BUSS bar - relocate from battery B+ post to switch C post.
With a traditional dual-battery like you are installing, I prefer to have all loads, including stereo, running through the switch by connecting them to the C post. This insures that ALL the audio gear shares the same battery source. This prevents unwanted noise and allows you to select which battery you want to draw from when anchored, leaving one in reserve for starting.
