Anyone ever use Injectadeck?

Russell Hernandez said:
I used it on my 340 and if I had not seen it with my own two eyes I wouldn't believe it we took a springboard front deck and made it solid as a rock in about an hour amazing stuff.
Click to expand...


Not sure I would trust a member with 5 posts, 3 in this thread. This is not intended to be negative on the product, it is just highly coincidental that we have two testimonials (the other is Anclote) in the same thread with single digit posts. Just saying...

MM
 
MonacoMike said:
Not sure I would trust a member with 5 posts, 3 in this thread. This is not intended to be negative on the product, it is just highly coincidental that we have two testimonials (the other is Anclote) in the same thread with single digit posts. Just saying...

MM
Click to expand...
Well I joined this forum because I had never owned a Sea Ray this was my first and when I found the soft deck it was a disaster for me the stuff saved my boat I was looking at a 12000 dollar repair I would be happy to talk to you about it my number is 8637977188 and as far as posts just haven't needed to
 
Russell Hernandez said:
Well I joined this forum because I had never owned a Sea Ray this was my first and when I found the soft deck it was a disaster for me the stuff saved my boat I was looking at a 12000 dollar repair I would be happy to talk to you about it my number is xxx-xxx-xxxx and as far as posts just haven't needed to
Click to expand...

Thanks for responding. My comment was nothing personal, but from experience we have had vendors try to create a narrative here with extra member logins. So post count helps determine validity. Glad it worked for you. I would suggest removing your phone number and just ask anyone that needs help to PM you, then talk.

MM
 
What do you guys think about this product? looks similar to the way Injectadeck is used.

 
Your Sea Ray is constructed a bit differently. The deck is laid up in a mold upside down. Then the balsa wood core is epoxied to that deck then a fiberglass reinforced plastic is laid over the balsa core. The headliner which is typically plywood with foam backed vinyl glued to it is then attached to blocking which is attached to that FRP underside layer. So, in your case the balsa core is degraded; you need to either cut it out and replace or fill that void with a structural material. Injecting an epoxy is not the answer. It's either rebuild the structure as original or use some structural polyurethane foam. Be aware also that if you don't or can't get the water logged material out from between the two fiberglass layers it will continue to rot and degrade. So, in my opinion, you may inject some material to fix the current soft spot but you'll probably in a couple of years end up with soft spots on the perimeter of the repair.
 
Last edited:
I’m resurrecting this thread for any long term updates? I have ordered the large kit to do the front deck on my 215 E/C. I speaking with the gentleman from Injectadeck he feels the windshield is what’s causing the main issue and am going to use Simpson Strong Tie to fill the screw holes the stop further instrusion as well as a new lower screw cover gasket. And then try and use the Hatch area to get the Injectadeck into the voids without drilling into skin by using 1/4 tubing attached to end of cartridge and a heavy wire taped to it as a guide. If I have to drill and fill, I will. But if I don’t have to, then I think it would be better.
 
Jbreamsiii said:
I’m resurrecting this thread for any long term updates? I have ordered the large kit to do the front deck on my 215 E/C. I speaking with the gentleman from Injectadeck he feels the windshield is what’s causing the main issue and am going to use Simpson Strong Tie to fill the screw holes the stop further instrusion as well as a new lower screw cover gasket. And then try and use the Hatch area to get the Injectadeck into the voids without drilling into skin by using 1/4 tubing attached to end of cartridge and a heavy wire taped to it as a guide. If I have to drill and fill, I will. But if I don’t have to, then I think it would be better.
Click to expand...


Injecting it into the hatch cavity does not work. Regardless how you rig it.......it will drip out before it sets up. I have personal experience with this and really hoped it would set up quickly like expand a foam does. It is engineered to be injected into the deck via holes drilled in the deck.

The other thing to watch out for is when curing it can create bulges in the deck and headliner fiberglass as it cures. Injectadeck's answer is to walk down bulges that appear in the deck .......not sure how that would work on the headliner fiberglass.

The stuff does work to provide stiffness to the deck.......just don't over do it or you will create another problem which can't be fixed.

As to the source of your water problem.......it usually is not the windshield but what you are doing will make sure it isn't the problem.
 
Thanks for the reply!! I do have a windshield issue as the previous owner tried to fix with Silicone and have a lot of softness in that area as you step through the windshield onto the deck. Instead of getting a new gasket he tried to ghetto it.

I guess drilling it will have to be the way to go then. As for the bulges I saw some rigged up something to push on from underneath. I will try to do something similar. But the key he told me is to go very light on the product and don’t over inject.
 
A dock neighbor with an older Carver used the Injectadeck and I was surprised the difference it made. Felt rock solid. He then did a Sea Deck type flooring over the deck. I was surprised how stiff it became.
 
Following! I have a large area on my 2000 270 searay from the Windshield to the front Hatch and the full width of the deck. Hoping I might be able to cure it with injectadeck. Anyone have experience with an area this size?
 
Just a thought bout an alternative I came across on another site, Sailboatowners, that was developed by a member there. Lowering pressure causes water to boil off at progressively lower temps. By attaching a vacuum pump via tubing to small holes drilled in the outer skin the core can be dried out at normal temps. The same setup can then draw in a thicken epoxy. I am not an engineer nor I have I tried this method yet but it may be a viable treatment.
I think we may need to consider a repair (which gets the job done) vs a reconstruction which may not be practical and never begun.
 
Jbreamsiii said:
I’m resurrecting this thread for any long term updates? I have ordered the large kit to do the front deck on my 215 E/C. I speaking with the gentleman from Injectadeck he feels the windshield is what’s causing the main issue and am going to use Simpson Strong Tie to fill the screw holes the stop further instrusion as well as a new lower screw cover gasket. And then try and use the Hatch area to get the Injectadeck into the voids without drilling into skin by using 1/4 tubing attached to end of cartridge and a heavy wire taped to it as a guide. If I have to drill and fill, I will. But if I don’t have to, then I think it would be better.
Click to expand...
The repair I made in 2018 is still holding up just fine, still rock solid.
 
PlayDate said:
Injecting it into the hatch cavity does not work. Regardless how you rig it.......it will drip out before it sets up. I have personal experience with this and really hoped it would set up quickly like expand a foam does. It is engineered to be injected into the deck via holes drilled in the deck.

The other thing to watch out for is when curing it can create bulges in the deck and headliner fiberglass as it cures. Injectadeck's answer is to walk down bulges that appear in the deck .......not sure how that would work on the headliner fiberglass.

The stuff does work to provide stiffness to the deck.......just don't over do it or you will create another problem which can't be fixed.

As to the source of your water problem.......it usually is not the windshield but what you are doing will make sure it isn't the problem.
Click to expand...
I made a dead man support for the inside glass skin so it would not bulge downward as the inner skin is a lot thinner than the deck skin. I used a piece of 3/4 plywood on a 2x4 wedged under the repair. I had to jump on my repair to flatten out the area as I forgot the restrictor in the tip on the first few holes so I over injected. It leveled out fine and the dead man kept the inside skin from bulging.
 
SCORPIO said:
The repair I made in 2018 is still holding up just fine, still rock solid.
Click to expand...

Curious if you took pics you could post?
How far apart where your holes for it?
How did you handle the "cosmetics" afterwards? We have a small area (approx 2'x3') that I'm guessing got wet from the grab rail down the center of the foredeck (sides of where the sun pad would be). When we got the boat I redid all the snaps with caulking, and went around the base mounts of the grab rail....but she was already soft in that area when we bought her. We have the "leather surface texture" of the gelcoat up there, always wanted to sand that area down and repaint some non skid up there anyways.
 
YeOldeStonecat said:
Curious if you took pics you could post?
How far apart where your holes for it?
How did you handle the "cosmetics" afterwards? We have a small area (approx 2'x3') that I'm guessing got wet from the grab rail down the center of the foredeck (sides of where the sun pad would be). When we got the boat I redid all the snaps with caulking, and went around the base mounts of the grab rail....but she was already soft in that area when we bought her. We have the "leather surface texture" of the gelcoat up there, always wanted to sand that area down and repaint some non skid up there anyways.
Click to expand...
I put a pic in post #12 on this thread. Also described the process I used in that post.
 
My plan is to do this project next, I will be following Scorpio’s lead with the dead man. I am debating wether to replace the three forward hatches first and then do the deck. Does it bond to the metal hatch?
 
i thinks it could only work if there is absolutely no moisture in the panel . If there is moisture the epoxy will never get to all the voids or stick.
 
SEAWOLF said:
i thinks it could only work if there is absolutely no moisture in the panel . If there is moisture the epoxy will never get to all the voids or stick.
Click to expand...
Some epoxy's curing and absorbency factors are actually accelerated when introduced into moisture laden areas.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,170
Messages
1,427,732
Members
61,079
Latest member
capeharj
Back
Top