Anyone ever changed the zink stick on their Westerbeke

Alex D

Alex D

Active Member
Oct 2, 2006
1,408
Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Boat Info
2004 240 Sundeck
Engines
Mercruiser 5.0 MPI B3
I tried to do it last weekend but there is no way toget a new zink in without lifting the genset or removing the heat exchanger because the zink points towards the floor on which the genset sits and there is not enough space to get the zink into the little hole.

Anyone had the same problem? Any trick how to get it in there that I am missing? Mine is entirely gone, so I need a new one.
 
I didn't encounter this problem when I changed my Westerbeke this summer, but I do have a suggestion that will work if the zinc is close to fitting in the space. Take a hacksaw and cut just enough off the end of the zinc to allow it to clear. If by doing that, you cut off so much zinc that there is hardly any left, then other 340 owners might need to offer suggestions.
 
Good idea! I thought of that too, but the space is so narrow that I would have to cut too much off. I really looks like I need to loosen the heat exchanger to see if I can turn it to get the new one in.

These 340s are so tight in the bilge, it is unbelieveable. My Four Winns 248 Vista had loads more room around that single engine in there and everything was easily accessible.

I still have not found a way to get to the port side trans drain plug on my 340 and if I could there is no way to put a container below it for draining the fluid. I just continue to suck it out, but that's another story ...
 
Is there enough space to insert the zinc without the plug screwed on, hold it in place with needle nose vise-grips, and thread the plug on after the zinc is inserted?

One other thing you could try is removing the end cap from the heat exchanger, get the zinc in the heat exchanger and stick the threads out the hole where the plug goes, thread it onto the plug and then insert and tighten the plug. Your only struggle here will be that there is a cross piece that the end cap bolts onto. You might be able to maneuver the zinc with some needle nose pliers.

Just trying to help!
 
tc410 said:
Is there enough space to insert the zinc without the plug screwed on, hold it in place with needle nose vise-grips, and thread the plug on after the zinc is inserted?

One other thing you could try is removing the end cap from the heat exchanger, get the zinc in the heat exchanger and stick the threads out the hole where the plug goes, thread it onto the plug and then insert and tighten the plug. Your only struggle here will be that there is a cross piece that the end cap bolts onto. You might be able to maneuver the zinc with some needle nose pliers.

Just trying to help!
Click to expand...
Thanks JEff!! Appreciate your help!! I did not know that the zink is lose in the plug. WOuldn't that defy the need for good contact to trasfer the galvanic current? The manual says not to use sealant on the plug in order not to isolate the zink from the heat excahnger.
I don't think I could get even the zink by itself in there. the plug is so close to the floor on which the genny sits that i can barely take the plug without a zink out of the boss.
 
Alex.
the heat exchanger should be held by two hose clamps. Loose tham and rotate the heat exchanger some. There should be enough slack in the hoses for this relocation.

Pat
 
never monday said:
Alex.
the heat exchanger should be held by two hose clamps. Loose tham and rotate the heat exchanger some. There should be enough slack in the hoses for this relocation.

Pat
Click to expand...

Correct, I will maybe need to ebnd them because the clamps are held by four screws, two of them entirely hidden behind the heat exchanger and only accessible from the bottom ... which ... would require the removal of the genny to get there .... :smt009
 
Who designed this

Hi

I recently purchased a 2002 380. I generally do my own mantenance, and would like to change the Zinc on the Westerbeke, but as you mentioned, it's impossible, without removing the exchanger. My question is, Alex were you able to twist the exchanger enough to get the new one in?

Need to also change the impeller, but that's another topic. :smt100

Dave
 
No, I haven't yet. I think I cannot even get it in when cutting it down. I would have to cut almost all of it off. the most likely way to get it in there seems to be to unbolt the genny at least on the aft side and lift it just a bit then slide the zinc in without unbolting the other side. A project for me this spring ... :smt009
 
I guess I'm lucky - the zinc on my Westerbeke is very easy to get to - once you figure out how to get back there, that is! :wink:

-CJ
 
OK, I'll go first

My gen is easy to get at, so I'll give it a try and let you know.

I'm hoping there is enough play in the hoses and bracket to be able to rotate the exchange 20 degrees to get the new zinc in there.

If I end up paying to have it done, I will insist I be there, so I can see how it's done.
 
Anyone ever changed the zinc stick on their westerbeke

I have a 2000 380 da and my previous boat was a 2000 340 da........both with westerbekes and both units I had to cut the zinc to get it in, but you need to check it more frequently since it is quite a bit smaller on initial install...........on occasion when my patience level was high I held the zinc in place with needle nose and screwed the cap in place.......the 380 is hard enough to grt to but the 340 was ridiculus.
 
So I assume losening the exchanger brackets won't work?
The top of the zinc nut is literally touching the base. I doubt I can unscrew it.

Have you ever replaced the impeller?

I plan to give both a try this weekend.

I hate paying to have routine maintenance done.
 
I've replaced the zinc on my Westerbeke just as never monday has described. You should be able to loosen the clamps and then you can rotate the heat exchanger just enough to get to the zinc.

I've also thought about either cutting out a notch or drilling a hole through the wood support that the genset sits on. Haven't explored that in any detail yet.

dc380 - the impeller on my 4.3 Westerbeke was a complete pain in the a$$. The cover plate for the impeller was inaccessible. I had to remove the entire pump from its mount in order to gain access. If your cover plate is easy to get to, then changing the impeller is a very simple job.
 
It sure is compact

Tough Life

I believe my impeller is in the same position, directly behind the raw water pump, and totally inaccessible. I hadn't planned on removing the whole assembly. I didn't bring anything to retension the fan belt.

Did you have a hard time realigning the pulley and belts?
 
It's not too difficult to realign the belt, it's just a tedious job due to the design. I pulled the entire assembly (pump and mount) off the genset, leaving the pump attached to the mount. This seemed easier to me since the mount was secured to the genset with a single allen head screw.

The downside to this approach was trying to reattach the entire pump/mount assembly. It was difficult to get the allen head screw back in because once you put the belt back on the pulley, it's hard to align the mount with the screw hole.

So after replacing the impeller, I then loosened the pump housing that is secured to the mount. Don't remove the screws that hold the pump in place, just loosen them. This allows you to slide the pump along the base of the mount. You can then reattach the entire assembly and then retension the belt. Good luck.
 
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