Another Propeller Thread - Mercury Factory 3 blade vs Turning Point 4 blade

Looks nice. How did the install go and when will you be trying it out?

FYI, you may consider pulling the skeg guard off. Not all the time, but sometimes, if you do hit something, the skeg will break off at a bad spot (due to the skeg guard) and the lower unit will not be able to have a new skeg welded on.
 
Looks nice. How did the install go and when will you be trying it out?

Install was fairly easy. It was intimidating drilling 16 holes under the waterline, but I did it anyways. I followed the directions on the included DVD (also available on Youtube) almost exactly. I had to install them a little farther in so they would clear the transom straps on my trailer.

I used fast curing 3M 5200 which cures in 24 hours. I wanted to get it out on the water today, right at about the 24 hour mark, but we have a 100% chance of rain today, so that's not going to happen. I put the cover on the boat and I'll let it cure a little more. I might get it out tomorrow, weather permitting. Based off the discussion in here, and people I talked to at West Marine, I expect good results.

FYI, you may consider pulling the skeg guard off. Not all the time, but sometimes, if you do hit something, the skeg will break off at a bad spot (due to the skeg guard) and the lower unit will not be able to have a new skeg welded on.

I never thought of that. It saved my a** one time when my buddy forgot to trim up the motor at the ramp. We boat in fairly deep water, so I'll probably leave it on.
 
Skeg guard - sure, just wanted to offer that advice.

This bugs me that they are still recommending the 5200. Don't get me wrong - it'll work, but it's the wrong application. There are better things out there. The problem is trying to remove it, if you would ever need to (damage, for example). This stuff is like super glue - it creates a bond that is stronger than the bond between the gelcoat and fiberglass. But, again, it will definitely work to seal water out.
 
This bugs me that they are still recommending the 5200. Don't get me wrong - it'll work, but it's the wrong application. There are better things out there. The problem is trying to remove it, if you would ever need to (damage, for example). This stuff is like super glue - it creates a bond that is stronger than the bond between the gelcoat and fiberglass. But, again, it will definitely work to seal water out.

What do you recommend using instead of 5200?
 
3M does have some good products for this application. But, personally (and our shop), I use the BoatLife products. LifeCaulk or LifeSeal would be good.
 
The weather cleared up yesterday and we got the boat out. The trim tabs are amazing. They provide such an improvement in handling. Thanks clubsearay guys for recommending them.
 
Hi LawyerMan

In an earlier post you said that you would go with the 40lb actuators but I see from your pictures that you went with the 60lb version. You can tell because the 60lb version has the blue cable tie and the 40lb has the red cable tie around the top.

I assume you know that you have the 60lb actuators? Just wondering why you changed your mind because from my experience the 60lb could be too much for your boat? Does it push the bow down too much?
 
Hi LawyerMan

In an earlier post you said that you would go with the 40lb actuators but I see from your pictures that you went with the 60lb version. You can tell because the 60lb version has the blue cable tie and the 40lb has the red cable tie around the top.

I assume you know that you have the 60lb actuators? Just wondering why you changed your mind because from my experience the 60lb could be too much for your boat? Does it push the bow down too much?

You are correct in your observation. I went with the 60lb shocks. They were the only ones available locally. They provide a huge improvement in the ride of the boat.
 
One question - Maybe for Lazy Daze or Cubee: Are the shocks adjustable? I know I can adjust the downward pressure, but that's not what I am talking about. Both tabs, spaced equally left and right on the transom, are set to the medium "3" position. However, it seems like the right shock is providing more lift than the left shock. We had it out on the water yesterday and the port side of the boat was definitely riding lower. Weight in the boat was evenly spaced.

How do I fix that?

EDIT: I just got off the phone with Nauticus. The tech guy says take off my hydrofoil and it should help. He said what I'm getting is probably propsteer.
 
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so did taking the foil off fix your problem?
 
Thanks. I have a 94 170 going back in the water tomorrow after 5 years off and I remember the slow stroll to get on plane and the porpoising at high speeds. Hoping the sx take care of it but I will wait till this weekends tests are done before I staRt adding more variables.
 
It's probably just something you'll have to play with a bit to get it right. The smaller and lighter a boat is, the more effect tabs (of the same size) will have on it. I seem to remember helping a customer with a similar problem a while back. The fix was just as you are thinking - move one of the shocks in or out one hole and retry.
 
It's probably just something you'll have to play with a bit to get it right. The smaller and lighter a boat is, the more effect tabs (of the same size) will have on it. I seem to remember helping a customer with a similar problem a while back. The fix was just as you are thinking - move one of the shocks in or out one hole and retry.

Thanks for your input Dennis. Great input as always. We close the office at 12:00 on Fridays so, weather permitting, I'm going to adjust one of the shocks and drop the boat in the water this afternoon. I'll report back with my results.
 

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