Another Classic Sea Ray almost ready to float again

geo737

Member
Jun 5, 2012
150
Oak Harbor, Washington
Boat Info
1979 sea ray 195 I/O, White over blue. no electronics as of yet. Pulled behind 2004 Ford Expedition
Engines
228 Mercruiser - 5.0 Chevrolet engine w/Alpha Outdrive
Hi Everyone,

My '79 SV 190 I/O is getting closer to getting back on the water. I finally got it home from where the previous owner was keeping it while we repaired a few items. I was fortunate in that the P/O was willing to help me get it working/running after it sat for 7-8 years. With the purchase I scored a new 4BBL carb, a "0" time Alpha outdrive, a new EZLoad trailer and a full canvas set. Now that I have it home, I compiled the following "to do" list:

Immediate items:
1. new blower motor - old one shot
2. fix fuel sending unit
3. install new trim solenoid- trims up. but not down
4. Flush fuel tank
5. Scrub,wash and polish - gelcoat is splotchy and chalky, aluminum and stainless oxidized
6. Remove pine needles from sitting
7. Oil change and service drive unit
8. Re-install swim platform after polishing
9. Install new registration numbers/letters
Short term:
1. Change exhaust manifolds- water seeping when running
2. rebuild jump seat bases and replace ice cooler
3. repair factory installed horn
4. replace bow and stern lights
Long Term:
1. Repair soft spot in floor ( small area)
2. New carpet
3. New upohlstry
4. Strip and restain all wood trim
I think thats enough for now- I bet I have everyone sleepy by now, LOL, Within the next few weeks, I hope to have her afloat and running thru the water. I will take some pictures this week if the rain holds off for a few days and get them posted. :grin:
 
congrats on new boat, sounds like you have your saturdays pretty scheduled for the next few mos.
 
Hey Geo, Sounds like you are on your way to a great boat. Check out my profile and the picture folders of my redo. I built the swim platform from composite decking 1X6's cut into 1 1/2 inch strips.
 
Congratulations!!! We love classics, restorations, and pics!!! :grin:
 
Hey OldSkool, checked out your snaps-very nice. Great looking boat and interior. Love the swim deck, got the wheels turning for a future project. managed to do some cleaning today before work. Simple Green and I are good friends now. I managed to get the old pine needles and gunk that had been sitting on the deck off. I need to compound/buff/polish now to get the rest of the contamination off and return the gloss. What is the best product to use for this? ( general concensus please). I have a full canvas cover with tinted mylar windows- what is concensus as to the best product to clean these? I also picked up a new blower motor - set me back $95, a bit of a surprise there. As I get more things done, I'll pass on my progress.
 
Hey everyone, Finally managed to get some photos posted. Just a few quick shots for now, will post more as I move forward. This weekends projects are to get the new blower installed, replace the trim motor solenoids-was challenging to find the correct ones. Turned out my trim motor is a early Prestolite and it looks from my research, that they take Mallory solenoids-need to exchange the ones I purchased at the boat shop. Started cleaning the interior, what a mess that is. Don't know when the last time it was cleaned, but it sure is dirty with a bit of surface mold thrown in for fun. What is the best way to remove the fuel sending unit? The fuel gauge doesn't work, so I was wanting to check the sender. I pulled the bolts, but was unable to remove it from the tank. Anyone with more experience have any advice? I cleaned the terminals, so hopefully, that's all it will take. Gotta go, my Overton's catalog I ordered just came today, so I am going to see what goodies I can find. Happy boating! :smt001
 

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Geo,
I replaced mine with a universal unit I picked up at Academy Sports. I pulled the entire bulkhead out to make room to work. It will come out but you need to play with it to get it in the correct position. If you need to bend it to remove it then do so. It's already broken. The universal one went in easier than the original one came out.

Also if you are looking for a swim platform using flat boards, check out [h=3]Finished the swim platform[/h]
And one by chrissrv195
[h=3]Finally finished the new swim platform![/h]
 
nice boat !!
that is the color combo my cruiser was originally before someone painted it white on the bottom
 
Thanks Moperlvr. Its getting there slowly. I purchased some Meguiers compounding liquid to try to help remove some of the blemishes on the hull. I am finding all the scratches and shallow gouges that are in the hull, although it is starting to clean up nicely. I did the transom area first, as I want to reinstall the swim platform that came with the purchase. The holes for the brackets are located and visually line up with the exsisting holes. A question as to the best fastener to use for the reinstall. Should I use stainless screws/ lagbolts or should I go with bolts thru the transom. Are there threaded inserts? (I couldn't quite make any out). Thanks OldSkool for the fuel tank/sender info. I will check those folks out to see if there is anything I might be able to adapt if needed. I get a little bullheaded sometime, so I'm going to give the original system a go before I yank it out. I like your idea of a full length swim platform. May make a good winter project. The weather has finally gotten nice and the "boss" is starting to grumble about getting on the water, so I will go with what I currently have LOL
 
While I was changing the blower motor, which I am convinced that the person who designed the original installation had a sense of humor, I came across a wiring issue. While I was looking at the shift plate, I found what I believe is the ignition interupt switch disconnected from the terminal block. What made me more curious was the second wire on the terminal block that was cut. It appears to be a 14 gauge wire that I as of yet, have not found what or where it goes to. Finding a cut wire made me look around some more and I was lucky enough to find another cut wire on a terminal block that is mounted next to the engine circuit breaker. It also appears to be a 14 gauge wire. I looked around and was unable to determine to what or where it goes to. I have some pictures to help describe what I found. Any help in determining the use of the wires would be great. Thanks. :grin:
 

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A question as to the best fastener to use for the reinstall. Should I use stainless screws/ lagbolts or should I go with bolts thru the transom. Are there threaded inserts? (I couldn't quite make any out).
I would use stainless thru bolts, fender washers on each end and nylock nuts. Bed in the bolts with plenty of 3M 4200
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll check the local marine supply or hardware store for stainless fasteners and the 3M 4200. Hopefully, an easy hour or two project.
 
Thanks Mike, she's getting there. I was really surprised at how well its cleaning up. It had been sitting for 6-7 years before I purchased it. I'm still finding the small pine needles in just
about every crevis. The interior vinyl is stained, but at least its clean now. The bilge was a mess- 10-15 years or more of crud came out from the ski locker drain to the engine bilge. It was a nasty brown sludge that floated on top of the water. Getting a good head of steam checking off the "to do" list, getting closer to putting her in the water.
 
Hey Everyone, just a few updates on my project. I have reinstalled the swim platform, thanks Dasch Boat for the advise on the hardware and sealant. Oldskool, you were correct in recommending a new fuel sender- the $45 I spent on a universal one, saved some headaches and frustration. The blower motor and bilge pump are now operationg as well. As I have previously posted, looking for some guidance on the cut wires I found, I spent some time with the local marine repair shop asking what their take was. The tech figured that since the interupt switch was disconnected, the wires may have been associated with someone bypassing the ignition interupt system. I am currently trying to source another interupt switch without going thru the conversion to the new style shift plate and switch assy at this moment. I also found some more interesting wiring issues with the trim/tilt system. As I was troubleshooting the system, I replaced both the trim solenoids, as they were initially a good place to start. As I continued on, I found that both the trim limit and trim tilt position wires in the gimbal areas were cut-now I know why I have only down and trailer up only. The question I have, is if I was to have a shop replace the switches, what would be a reasonable amount to expect to pay. The shop I have been purchasing parts from hasn't done any of these in awhile, and couldn't give me an semi-accurate quote. Any ballpark ideas? I have thought of tackling this myself, but I am lacking some of the tooling required to do this change. Any ideas/suggestions would be welcomed.
 
I just listen for the pump to load up in max up or down position. I would not bother with fixing the limit switches. The old ones are temperamental and are not really needed on a small boat. If you were 20 feet away and isolated in a cabin where you could not hear the pump, I would be recommending a different path. If it is going to drive you nuts not having one non essental system working....well therapy may be less costly. ;0 Get her on the water and start having some fun before the summer is over. You can fiddle with it all winter.
 
LOL point taken motogizmo. I'm just about at that point of putting her in the water. The last of the neccessary projects is almost completed- I had to flush the fuel tank and clean the check valve in the fuel hose barb (another surprise LOL). The tank will go in tomorrow, some fuel on saturday, running it and an oil change and just about there. the only other issue is the ignition interupt switch, then in the water.
 
well, ran into another small snag... anyone ever change an oil pan in the boat without pulling the engine? mine leaks when oil at full level. I' m letting the oil drip/leak to the level it stops, then scuff, clean, then JB Weld... other suggestions? (outside running the oil level low?) thanks
 
Unfortunately, The pan issue is one of corrosion. The steel is rusted and exfoliation corrosion is what I'm fighting. The bolts are snug, its the pan itself-oil is leaking thru the corner of the sump. I just checked, the oil has stopped dripping at the spot is was leaking from, so some brake cleaner(chlorinated solvents will clean the area well), and on goes the JB Weld. Hopefully, the end results are positive. I am learning a real lesson about purchasing an older boat that has been sitting. While the end result will be worth the effort, its been quite the task to get her ready for the water.
 

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