Anode problem - overlooked during service, can I replace in water?

[rcon]

I'm sure the answer here is "yes", but I'd love to hear from someone who has done it.

Just had Preparation out for a drive repair (warranty), gimbal replacement, prop speed and anti-foul etc. However it appears a few things got overlooked, like replacing drive anodes :smt021/ now, how this happened doesn't really matter as I'm 40nm from the yard that did the work, so the question remains....

can I change the drive anodes in water?
Is the "socket" where the bolt goes likely to corrode if salt water gets in there?
Should I raise the drive out of the water to do this?

Also, its been 30 hours/9 months since last Alpha impeller ("water pump kit"?) change and I'm not planning on being out of the water for another 9 months.... this likely to pose a risk or is that within the envelope?

Please, no diversion to how this got missed, I'll be razzing the mechanic (and myself) all by myself

 

[IanBat]

Hi Rcon,

I am presuming we are talking out drives here.

The anodes can be done in the water.

Before I go any further though, I haven't done them.

The PO of my boat were marine mechanics and changed the anodes every year, half way between anti foul. They used to pull up to the beach or sandbar. Use a rear anchor as well as normal front anchor to stabilise it.

Raise out drives and then change.

I geared up for it last year, but had rotten luck with weather and business trips clashing when the weather was good, so in the end had the marina do it.

Mine are volvo's but pretty sure same to do as mercruisers


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[IanBat]

Need to be careful, you don't drop anything, and you ensure everything goes back the same


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[rcon]

Cheers, Ian.

Outdrives indeed.

Doesn't seem to be a difficult job, but its a boat so there aint many "easy" jobs and best to seek that voice of experice Good tips too, cheers.

 

[Brite Idea]

your impeller should be ok until next year. I replace mine every two seasons now and from the condition I find it when i do it could go two more. The anodes are another story they should be inspected regularly and changed as needed or for the season if your in an area where the boat spends half the year out of the water like mine. I'd say if your willing the in the water change is possible but don,t use a ratchet since it will be ruined and if you don't have a Mercathode you'll have to get under the transom assembly to change that one. Good Luck!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Sure - it's fine to do in the water, with the obvious caveats regarding losing things. Whatever tools you use, just rinse them off well - especially with a ratchet. With a ratchet, also douse it in WD-40 and let it sit for a day and then wipe off. Good to go.

Now worries about the "socket" and salt water - it get's in there no matter what you do.

Impeller should be fine - unless you've run in a lot of shallow, sandy/silty water - then it's best to check. Unless it was really shallow though, you're probably fine.

 

[magstang1]

Changing anodes in the water is fine.

The gimbal just has two bolts holding it on. No problem there. The cavitation plate has one bolt from the top. No problem there. Trim rams, two bolts from the front. Again, no problem.

The tricky one will be the bearing carrier anode. Your prop has to be removed to access this one. Once the prop is removed, it's just two small bolts holding the anode on. The issue will be greasing the prop shaft before reinstalling the prop. If the shaft is under water, this will be tricky. You could gob a bunch of grease in the prop and push it on the shaft. Ideally you would need to get the shaft above water. Another option would be just skip this anode until you haul the boat again.

The water pump will need to wait until the boat is out of the water.

As far as the "socket" you are referring to, I believe you are talking about the raised rib above the cavitation plate on the drive. The spot where you have to remove the plastic cap to access the anode fastner. That cap is not water proof. It's more of a cap to make it look pretty than anything else. That recess is full of water anyway when your drive is down. No worries about opening it up.

 

[Lazy Daze]

As far as the "socket" you are referring to,

I "think" he meant the female side of the bolt/thread combo - the "hole" that the bolts screw into.

 

[Ididntdoit]

Its an absolute ***** doing it in the water. I now short haul anytime i need to replace them...

 

[IanBat]

Its an absolute ***** doing it in the water. I now short haul anytime i need to replace them...

That's one thing I didn't ask Rcon, I understand that you have an 80nm round trip to the yard that did the work, but do you have a local slip for normally doing your anti foul etc.

The short haul is what I do. My anodes give me between 5-6 months so need to be done between anti foul

I get the marina to lift it between jobs, as they only need it up for an hour, and it is a quick extra for them.

I wouldn't be running back to the original place though, fuel cost would b a killer, I woul either find someone close or do it in water. Would also be doing it soon, water temp must be cooling down your way now!


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[rcon]

No local lift. Its been promised but the marina is in and out of financial administration and its probably lacking a critical mass for a shop to set up.

There is an enterprising couple talking of starting a trailer pull and service business at the marina (all the environmental approvals exist) but its not there yet.

Yes, "socket" was referring to the female side of things.

Thanks for the tips, guys. Feeling confident this job can be done. I knew a boat was going to be a lot of work from all the reading I'd done on here, but its all that and just a little bit more

 

[Lazy Daze]

Try the "Special 101" grease that Merc makes for the prop shaft. That stuff is really sticky and it will be very easy to put it on the shaft while still underwater (if you can't tilt it up enough). It won't come off your hands very easily, but the water won't affect the application in any way.