Anchor Rode Secured to Bow Cleat or Windlass

potis

Active Member
Oct 15, 2006
143
San Ramon, CA
Boat Info
1998 400 DA Sundancer
"Soggy Dollar"
Engines
8.1L V-Drives
We recently purchased a 2000 340DA. It has an all chain anchor rode, no rope. The windlass is a Lofrans Progressive one. On the bow, next to the windlass there is a large cleat. This cleat is for rope anchor rode. It is for securing the anchore rope once the anchor has been deployed and securely set. Once the anchor is set the anchor rope is secured to the cleat, the windlass can be operated briefly to let out a few more inches of rope, thus taking the load off of the windlass and letting the cleat carry the load. Here is my question; what do I do to secure the anchor rode since mine is all chain. Obviously, I can't wrap the chain around the cleat. One person I spoke to with the same boat said the windlass is made to handle the full load when anchored so no need to worry. My owner's manual for the windlass "suggests" that the windlass not be used to take the full load if possible. There is also a small cable at the bow, approx. 1/4 or 3/16" dia. and about 12" long with a ss snap clip. My understanding is that this cable is used only to clip onto the anchor chain when the anchor is locked onto the bow chock. It is for holding the anchor just in case the clutch were to break loose so that the anchor would not plunge down into the water when underway. However, the previous owner of the boat said he used that small cable to hold the full anchor load when he anchored out (similar to the function of the cleat). This cable just seems to small to me to be used for that function. Thanks in advance.
 
Do a search for "chain snubber" or "anchor chain snubber" and you'll find what you need to be using. While the windlass may be engineered for the load on the rode, wind, current, and other conditions can produce significant impact loads. The windlass may not fail and break loose, but its lifespan will definitely be diminished. I have the same windlass and just went to all chain so the admiral could operate on her own from the helm if necessary. I'm using the Ultra version of the snubber with a Y rope to the cleats on either side of the bow. It also reduces noise when anchored at night with some wind.
 
Most windlasses are not intended to take the full load at anchor. The small safety cable is intended to secure the anchor in place when it's all up as you figured.

You need to make or buy a snubber... about 20 feet of 5/8 rope with a chain hook on one end and a loop on the other. Use the snubber to take the weight of your anchor and provide shock absorbency.
 
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I also have an all chain setup on my boat. I use a snubber line about 15ft in length.
 
A snubber is probably your best route as others have noted.

you can also install a chain stopper, but you need to make sure it is bolted into some substantial structure, in front of the windlass. I went this route, and like because I anchor a lot and it's a simple flick to lock it in.
 
I considered going all chain because my gypsy wheel was worn on my Lofrans Progressive One and wasn't always catching the anchor line and you CANNOT get a replacement gypsy wheel any longer. I hesitated on this option because the noise the chain makes at anchor overnight on the anchor pulpit and I would have to use a snubber. This wasn't a deal breaker but I consider the chain stopper option as well. With the chain stopper do you get noise from the chain on the anchor rollers when there is some weather at night? The admiral gets cranky when there is odd noises while sleeping. One time I had to crawl out on the bow in the middle of the night to remove the burgee from the flag staff because the metal clips were making too much noise in the wind.


A snubber is probably your best route as others have noted.

you can also install a chain stopper, but you need to make sure it is bolted into some substantial structure, in front of the windlass. I went this route, and like because I anchor a lot and it's a simple flick to lock it in.
 
OTJ, yes, I do get some noise from the chain rode rubbing if the wind picks up a bit during the night. My wife and I are also light sleepers, so I can understand your Admirals’ concern. We bought those little “noise makers” and run them all night. They 110V, or battery power if you are on the hook. Just a faint “white noise” to block out subtle noise, but you will still hear a louder noise that would require investigation.


I considered going all chain because my gypsy wheel was worn on my Lofrans Progressive One and wasn't always catching the anchor line and you CANNOT get a replacement gypsy wheel any longer. I hesitated on this option because the noise the chain makes at anchor overnight on the anchor pulpit and I would have to use a snubber. This wasn't a deal breaker but I consider the chain stopper option as well. With the chain stopper do you get noise from the chain on the anchor rollers when there is some weather at night? The admiral gets cranky when there is odd noises while sleeping. One time I had to crawl out on the bow in the middle of the night to remove the burgee from the flag staff because the metal clips were making too much noise in the wind.
 
Yes she has a battery operated white noise maker and she found a white noise App for the iPad along with ear plugs and an eye mask. Of course none of that works when the 5 years old crawls in the berth with us and sleeps sideways. I ended up keeping the rope/chain anchor rode. I was able to recondition the rope by soaking it in fabric softener and now it catches nicely on the gypsy wheel. I tie the anchor line to the bow cleat anytime there is some breeze or if I'm going to be on the hook overnight.
 
Agree with Bill, chain noise is an issue with us, and in calm water it is just as bad, the weight of the chain will "pull" the boat forward so that the chain hangs straight down and then as the boat wanders in variable breezes, the sound of the chain dragging over itself while laying on the bottom travels up the chain to the boat and makes sounds that would not normally be associated with the chain. The first time that ever happened, I went up top with a gun at 2 in the morning. Now I use a bridle all the time except for short stops in calm water when I use the chain stop.
I don't trust the chain stop for holding in rough conditions, and I would worry about the install loosening and getting a wet deck.
My set up is two 1/2" x 20' lines with an ABI chain grabber. I have had no issues with this setup as long as I let out enough chain to hang over the backside of the grabber. An added plus is that the point of attachment can be adjusted to be below the water surface, increasing holding ability.
DSC_0183_zpsg0mc26xd.jpg
 
Mark, good points. The snubber is a superior solution.
I believe the OP has his answer, so I will make a quick course change. Are you still planning on doing the loop?

 
Bill, We are in progress. did 1800 more miles of it this past summer. I am back to work part time until next summer, when we will head west to cover Lake Michigan and then south through the rivers. Man plans and God decides, wish us luck!
 
Very cool Mark. You should do a blog, so people who wish they were doing it (me included) can follow along virtually.


Bill, We are in progress. did 1800 more miles of it this past summer. I am back to work part time until next summer, when we will head west to cover Lake Michigan and then south through the rivers. Man plans and God decides, wish us luck!
 
Bill, I'm not much of a blogger I guess, but Karen did a blog after our daughter who lives in New Jersey suggested it. It was a good way for our friends and family to follow along. It only pertains to the trip. I'm sure she'll pick it back up when we head out again. You are all more than welcome to check it out.

http://www.ourcaptainschoice.blogspot.com/
 
Bill, We are in progress. did 1800 more miles of it this past summer. I am back to work part time until next summer, when we will head west to cover Lake Michigan and then south through the rivers. Man plans and God decides, wish us luck!
You going to cruise Superior?
 
Your blog is bookmarked. I just read some of your entries, and saw your pictures from your trip. I am looking forward to reading more next year. You are living the dream J



Bill, I'm not much of a blogger I guess, but Karen did a blog after our daughter who lives in New Jersey suggested it. It was a good way for our friends and family to follow along. It only pertains to the trip. I'm sure she'll pick it back up when we head out again. You are all more than welcome to check it out.

http://www.ourcaptainschoice.blogspot.com/
 
Woody, We are thinking that We want to spend quite a bit of time in Superior, so we hope to revisit the North Channel via The Bruce peninsula someday (we won't do the Trent again, we've done it twice). We will do Superior on that trip, spending the month that we spent in the Trent and Georgian Bay, there.
 
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I use a strap like shown below and hook it on the chain to the cleat you mentioned...
0000315_10-rubber-strap.jpg
 
We recently purchased a 2000 340DA. It has an all chain anchor rode, no rope. The windlass is a Lofrans Progressive one. On the bow, next to the windlass there is a large cleat. This cleat is for rope anchor rode. It is for securing the anchore rope once the anchor has been deployed and securely set. Once the anchor is set the anchor rope is secured to the cleat, the windlass can be operated briefly to let out a few more inches of rope, thus taking the load off of the windlass and letting the cleat carry the load. Here is my question; what do I do to secure the anchor rode since mine is all chain. Obviously, I can't wrap the chain around the cleat. One person I spoke to with the same boat said the windlass is made to handle the full load when anchored so no need to worry. My owner's manual for the windlass "suggests" that the windlass not be used to take the full load if possible. There is also a small cable at the bow, approx. 1/4 or 3/16" dia. and about 12" long with a ss snap clip. My understanding is that this cable is used only to clip onto the anchor chain when the anchor is locked onto the bow chock. It is for holding the anchor just in case the clutch were to break loose so that the anchor would not plunge down into the water when underway. However, the previous owner of the boat said he used that small cable to hold the full anchor load when he anchored out (similar to the function of the cleat). This cable just seems to small to me to be used for that function. Thanks in advance.

You're actually one of the lucky ones to have all chain. Quite often people wish to upgrade their anchoring gear, but can't justify the expense.

Your observation is spot on, in regards to the cleat and the small cable. It's definitelly should NOT be used to carry the load of the boat at anchor.

The best way to secure the chain is bridle. It's excellent and multifunctional tool. It does the following:

1. Distributes the load among two cleats.
2. Takes the load off the windlass.
3. By making large loop, it drops the connecting point, encreasing your scope and maximizing your holding power by 30-50% (of course depending on the depth).
4. It reduces the swing.
5. It resolves the noise issue.

Like Mark, I'm using about 20' lines with eye loop, which easily gets hooked on the cleat, like any dock line. But, I also added 2' of chain on each side to prevent lines chafing against the chain. I'm using Mantus hook with SS shackle. But, there are few options to choose from.

When I anchor just for couple of hours and don't feel like deploying the bridle, I have a small line (about 1/2" size) always on the front cleat, which I use to go through the chain and secure to the cleat. Simple and effective for a short stay.
 
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Please upgrade to something more appropriate. Those hooks are not strong enough, and when the break, you could easily shoots that thing at high speed back at your cockpit. Use a proper chain snubber.

Bryan

I use a strap like shown below and hook it on the chain to the cleat you mentioned...
0000315_10-rubber-strap.jpg
 

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