Anchor paint

...........However, the swivel I have does not have that middle joint like Todd's does. I have not seen that style before and it looks as though it may negate the need for the short chain.............

I'm trying to find where I found the info, but I read that this style swivel is for linking the anchor to the chain. I suppose the single swivel style can be less flexible but I've never heard of adding a short chain section either.
 
Many, if not most, of our Sea Ray Windlasses are mounted to close to the anchor shank to be able to even consider adding a shackle to the anchor, a small length of chain and then a swivel without causing any interference between the swivel and the windlass base.
 
I've never heard that before. In fact a quick search of anchor swivels, and reading some of the the manufacturers specs, they all say nothing about the need to add any chain between the swivel and the rode. Do you have any specifics on the differnces between the stresses of the swivel to the shank and the swivle to the chain? actually, how do you propose to connect the chain to the shank?






These types of swivels have been around for many many years......


8867.jpg
Mine came with a swivel hooked direct to the anchor. It looks the same as the top one in this pic.
 
I've never heard that before. In fact a quick search of anchor swivels, and reading some of the the manufacturers specs, they all say nothing about the need to add any chain between the swivel and the rode. Do you have any specifics on the differnces between the stresses of the swivel to the shank and the swivle to the chain? actually, how do you propose to connect the chain to the shank?

Good question, Dom. And, to be honest, up until a few years ago, I had never thought twice about it. Then, for whatever reason, it dawned on me that these swivels (I have the more "streamlined" looking one you pictured) don't "look" like they're meant to handle a lateral stress. In a lateral stress situation, imagine where most of the stress is going to be contained in that swivel... right in the middle, making that joint a weak point.

After thinking about it a bit, I called Sea Dog (manufacturer of the swivel) and they confirmed.

I never went any further than calling the company until you posed the question. I just found this on Sea Dog's website:

http://www.sea-dog.com/PDF/182608.pdf

Note, that they are referring to a fixed-shaft anchor. A CQR anchor can only pivot so far. I would "guess" that if the the CQR got to the end of it's swiveling capability, then the swivel/chain would just flip around and go the other way?

I was not able to find a pdf for the jaw-jaw swivel you pictured. I do not know if it as susceptible to side loading as the other one. Personally, I'd feel more comfortable with at least a couple links of chain in there. It would just give it more flexibility.

Regular shackles would be a easy way to connect the chain.
 
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I think that 3rd link always allows the swivel to rotate into the load. I can't see a scenario that if you applied force from two directions it wouldn't swivel to that bend.
 
I think that 3rd link always allows the swivel to rotate into the load. I can't see a scenario that if you applied force from two directions it wouldn't swivel to that bend.

Are you referring to your swivel? If so, yes I agree. I wonder why the one you have is so much less expensive? It appears to have a good WLL rating... higher than 1/4" HT Grade 43 chain, about equal to 5/16".

Hmmm... maybe I just payed too much for my swivel! Wish I would have known about the one you have before I purchased mine.

That particular swivel you have appears to be the best way to go - no messing with extra chain or shackles.
 
The OEM Good windlasses from back in the day were rode only. So, of course you don't "have" to have a length of chain.
But you're not going to get the same holding power- and the anchor will not set as easily- without chain, as with.

I really don't even understand the subject of this discussion- if you have an all-chain rode, or a length of chain spliced to the rode, there's no other way to attach the anchor to the chain other than a swivel. How can it be said to not attach the swivel to the anchor? The stainless barrel swivels are ball-bearing- designed to minimize twist which is extremely important for windlass rode, and the streamlined design get it's over and through the anchor roller without hanging up. Far as I know, there's no other way to do it other than what I have here.

Unless you have a dramatic shift in tide or wind, the pull is always going to be MOL in line with the anchor shank.

JoSea021-1-1.jpg
 
Are you referring to your swivel? If so, yes I agree. I wonder why the one you have is so much less expensive? It appears to have a good WLL rating... higher than 1/4" HT Grade 43 chain, about equal to 5/16".

Hmmm... maybe I just payed too much for my swivel! Wish I would have known about the one you have before I purchased mine.

That particular swivel you have appears to be the best way to go - no messing with extra chain or shackles.
Yes, that's what I was talking about.

..............I really don't even understand the subject of this discussion- if you have an all-chain rode, or a length of chain spliced to the rode, there's no other way to attach the anchor to the chain other than a swivel. How can it be said to not attach the swivel to the anchor?

Sure there is. A simple shackle.
 
Any answer to Scotts question?

As for me, anchor #1...
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or anchor #2...
!Bi2sD3g!Wk~$(KGrHqQH-E!Es9usjt3PBLR!1mZp,g~~_35.GIF


About $50 between the two, either way I will get a swivel to connect it to the chain.
 
#2 is identical to what I have, except its SS. How do you work the trip line? I don't have one on my current setup.
 
#2 is identical to what I have, except its SS. How do you work the trip line? I don't have one on my current setup.

I think number 2 is OEM for Sea Ray :huh:
 
Whatchu talkin' 'bout Willis?!!
If I wanted some crusted barnacle heap hanging off of the bow of my boat, I'd buy a sailboat.
NehalenniaProjectsPre-Trip7-12-081.jpg

NehalenniaProjectsPre-Trip7-12-08.jpg

I'd go for #2. Reason being it has a clear means of hooking a trip line to it, so you can recover it should the anchor get stuck. I can't tell if anchor #1 has a hole for hooking the recovery line to. If it does, then it's hard to say. Me, myself and I, would still go for #2 because it looks less likely to leave a track in my gel coat as it comes up cockeyed, plus it is the same type I already have. (aside from SS)

Scott if you look again at mine you'll see that there is a trip line hole. Also, as Dom eluded to, the hinged neck allows for the shank to swing vs. bending as he showed.

The swivel allows the anchor to roll up and seat nicely in the roller when pulled in by a windlass.
 
An anchor is an anchor, it's supposed to look like it's been used. No paint ever!
 
Scott if you look again at mine you'll see that there is a trip line hole. Also, as Dom eluded to, the hinged neck allows for the shank to swing vs. bending as he showed.

The swivel allows the anchor to roll up and seat nicely in the roller when pulled in by a windlass.

Any reason why your not using the trip hole?
 
Any reason why your not using the trip hole?

Do you mean why I don't have a lanyard on there? I've never ever ever run into a need for it. I understand why it's there, but just have never run into a situation yet that's warranted it. After yarding it in by hand last summer I may just add on though. I still need to get a windlass.
 
I've yet to either. But with a nicer anchor its got me wondering if I should or not. Is your anchor chute the factory one, that you just polished/waxed nicely?
 
I've yet to either. But with a nicer anchor its got me wondering if I should or not. Is your anchor chute the factory one, that you just polished/waxed nicely?

I have polished it yes and it is factory.
 
Thanks. How do you secure the swivel? I know on my current setup I have a shackle that I tightened as tight as I could, and then ran a smile wire through it and tied it off so the screw couldn't back out. On this swivel I just put some red loctite on it and tightened it, I don't see anything else I can do...

IMG_3354.jpg


IMG_3356.jpg
 
Nothing else you can do...
Blue threadlocker is a good idea- I need to use it. You shouldn't have to worry about it coming loose. Mine has a damn allen screw on it instead of a flathead.
 
OK, my SS 316 Anchor is in. My only thought now is did I get it too big? I opted for the 44 lb version. My current galvanized anchor is only 22 lbs. This new one seems enormous in comparison...

IMG_0316.JPG


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