Anchor on Pulpit hits when loading or unloading

230CC

230CC

Member
Jul 19, 2011
67
Whitmore Lake, MI
Boat Info
1992 270 Weekender
Engines
7.4L 330HP Bravo II
So I have a '92 270 Weekender sitting on a custom trailer, with all the bunks welded in place. The trailer fits the boat nearly perfectly.

Well last summer it was a bit of a fight to load the boat on the trailer. I have gotten that sorted, the winch was actually pulling the boat down as it was loading.

I raised the winch some and positioned it better. The boat loads 100 times easier now and the winching is easier too. I do have one issue now and that is the anchor/pulpit is hitting the winch roller.

Any ideas. Here is the best picture I could come up with.

10259166_776780495667492_6687821810600945436_o.jpg
 
I had the same problem when I had a 268 Sundancer on a trailer. It was due to the angle of the launch being a bit too steep. The only thing I could do is not back the boat up as much and leave more of the trailer out of the water. That being said, I had rollers and could winch the boat up the incline fairly easily. Not sure if you could do that with bunks or if there would be too much drag...
 
Yup. Boat is too far in the water and floating too much as it comes off the trailer, thereby changing the angle of it compared to the trailer too much.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Yup. Boat is too far in the water and floating too much as it comes off the trailer, thereby changing the angle of it compared to the trailer too much.
Click to expand...

This suggestion will help in many cases but it really does not solve the underlying problem, which is the bow of the boat falls too far into the center of the trailer until the hull bottom engages the bunks. You can correct this problem with a keel bunk to hold up the bow. Dennis suggestion works better for smaller lighter boats than bigger ones that can't be pulled up by dragging them.

MM
 
Last edited:
MonacoMike said:
This suggestion will help in many cases but it really does not solve the underlying problem, which is the bow of the boat falls too far into the center of the trailer until the hull bottom engages the bunks. You can correct this problem with a keel bunk to hold up the bow. Dennis suggestion works better for smaller lighter boats than bigger ones that can't be pulled up by dragging them.

MM
Click to expand...

I ran into the same problem as the OP with my 260DA. As long as I didn't float the stern too much, I was OK. That's a good suggestion regarding the bow "falling"... but if you look at the trailer, it looks (at least from what I can see) that he already has bunks just a few inches to either side of the bow keel. Not exactly the same as a true keel roller, granted, but it should keep the bow from falling.

Along the lines of what Scott mentioned, I eventually got rid of the carpet in favor of plastic bunk slicks. HUGE improvement. HUGE.
 
Last edited:
I remember that thread, Mike... well, I 'remembered' it after I read it... :smt001

There's still going to be a 'pivot' point when/if the stern starts to float too much, thereby lowering the bow. With the way your trailer was originally, the main bunks were SO far apart, that this issue was exaggerated in your setup - which is also why you saw such an improvement by adding keel bunks. Again, we only have that one picture to look at (above), but it does appear he already has keel bunks.

One thing I don't think I mentioned in your thread, Mike, was that my trailer originally was a roller trailer and the forward keel actually sat ON a set of (6) rollers, each 12" wide. That meant that my forward keel COULD NOT go any lower, even less so than keel bunks that are just 6" apart. Even with that keel roller, my pulpit would hit the stand if my stern was floating too high.

230CC - don't give up hope on being able to power load. As long as it's permitted at the ramp you are using, you can do it. You just need to figure out the "trick". We (actually my wife does) powerload all the time - she drives the boat right up against the bow stop with a good "thunk" as it hits the anchor stand. She keeps the engine in gear so it doesn't slide back - with carpet you may or may not need to do that, but with the bunk slicks I put on it slides almost like it's on rollers.
 
I have same issue with mine, secret is to keep your trailer shallow in water when winching up. Dish soap works on bunks, if carpeted, to help it slide.
 
Guys,

Thanks for the feed back. I have the liquid rollers, it does help some, but I still have to put the trailer in quite a ways, to have a fighting change of winching up. I think the bottom paint is causing me trouble. Power loading is illegal here in Michigan and if caught can be a hefty fine, so that is out. A couple of you hit on the boat dropping down as it slips off. That is exactly what is going on. My keel bunks are pretty close together however I think I can fit a keel roller in between them, and did purchase two of them, one for each of the two forward cross members. I just need to fab up some brakets.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Here is a couple photos of the front cross member and bunks. And the trailer with the boat off it. That is the PO's truck, not that that matters.
11206954_987840781228128_1205114544728567442_n.jpg
11147193_987840444561495_6285746032494758245_n.jpg
11224018_987837201228486_2959040017825272746_n.jpg
11011838_987837084561831_3761549560798040359_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
I really don't think you're going to gain much by adding keel rollers. As I mentioned above, you're still going to have a pivot point and it's not going to change much given that the keel bunks are already so close together. Bunk slicks will make a very noticeable improvement. Another option is to install and electric winch.

Powerloading is illegal in the whole state? Geesh - haven't heard of that before.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Powerloading is illegal in the whole state? Geesh - haven't heard of that before.
Click to expand...

You have now. Here is an animation explaining why.

http://www.mcgi.state.mi.us/mrbis/

Most earthen piers here also require bow in so as not to have the water pushed by the props washing away the base of the pier.

MM
 
Last edited:
MonacoMike said:
http://www.mcgi.state.mi.us/mrbis/
Click to expand...

I'm well aware of that - in fact, I use that same animation in the classes I teach (PA Safe Boating Class). But if there's a long, cement ramp, there are no issues (as long as there are not slips/etc right behind the ramp where the prop wash would be jostling boats). I'm just surprised that it's throughout the WHOLE state, as opposed to a ramp-by-ramp basis. Is EVERY single ramp in MI a dirt/gravel ramp?
 
Hell no.... I never encountered a gravel ramp anywhere and I trailered a 320 Sundancer ...... And I had a bunkered custom made goose neck trailer made , bottom line is you are putting the trailer too far into the water . I had to drive the 320 onto the trailer while coasting once in awhile I'd have to bump it up a little more being careful not to prop wash . What lakes are you encountering gravel ramps ???
BTW I loved my power winch ... Worth it's wait in gold saves on shoulders hands and attitudes .
I also noticed that your anchor is hanging WAY out there, wondering why normally it's tucked up closer to the pulpit !!!

Boltman
 
Last edited:
No gravel ramps. I don't think the trailer is in to far, but at the same time maybe so. It is a mother sucker to winch up on the trailer if I have it out of the water much more.

Anchor is where it belongs, Sea Ray mounted the windlass and mount up there when the boat was new.
 
my winch tower and bow stop are separate,

center of winch drum to bow eye is 31 inches
center of winch drum to center of bow stop is 50 inches

the anchor and chute hang below the pulpit 10 inches and it just clears, just !

the trailer is adjusted so when level the boat is slightly bow high for drainage.
the drain plug is flush with the last cross member no overhang no hook !

i gotta go deep to launch and recover as well
 
That's a pretty good looking trailer, bunks look about as good as you can do. I don't see adding a roller will gain anything. When trailer is hooked up to the truck does it sit level. It's supposed to be for handling purposes but also in your case an inch or two too high will add to your problem of loading the boat. Contrary to a lot of suggestions here I'd back that trailer farther in the water if the ramp is long enough. Back it in as far is it takes so you pulpit doesn't hit, it'll be easier cranking too. IMHO too many folks don't want to roll up their pant legs high enough.
 
Woody said:
IMHO too many folks don't want to roll up their pant legs high enough.
Click to expand...

Very true statement. The things folks do to try and load without touching water is nuts. I have seen several folks fall off slippery trailer frames trying not to walk in the water.

MM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,120
Messages
1,426,611
Members
61,037
Latest member
wojozobl
Back
Top