Anchor hits bow roller and winch.

MonacoMike said:
Kinda funny, Chapmans seems to indicate it is rogue to power load. :smt043

I like not power loading. Safer for people, equipment, and does not harm the ramp. I do not seem to need a superlong-deep ramp to get deep enough to load. Why would someone think "rookie or strange" if a trailer is set in front of a vessel tied to the side peir, backed under in a deep set, boat is pulled forward to about 8 feet from the bow stop by bow cleat lines, and then winched on the rest of the way? I have seen people that could do 180's while power loading, most are not that good. Just watch the ramp. MM
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Our water is not deep enough and the ramps are real steep so in order for me to winch on, my anchor goes under the bow roller or trailer drops off ramp. That's just how it works here. We get lots of practice as we launch year round:grin:
 
MonacoMike said:
Todd, Power loading is strictly prohibited at most launches I use. I prefer not to do it as well. MM
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It's discouraged at some ramps on the lakes but the saltwater ones don't have an issue. They maintain them very well at the ones I frequent. I load at a very controlled rate so there is no risk to equipment either.
 
Nehalennia said:
I know you guys with the 270DAs have the pulpit so you extend more but my plow style anchor hooks down so it's geometry seems to cause the same problem. I don't have any issues unloading and power loading now.
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My boat likely didn't have this issue until I installed the factory bow rollers and the anchor up there. It takes about 8 inches of space. MM
 
If I read correctly... your biggest problem is that as the boat goes on/off the trailer, there is a point where the pulpit gets in the way of turning the winch handle?

Try adjusting the winch mounting bar (or whatever it's actually called - that piece of metal that the winch is bolted to) so it's at a different angle. Lower the front edge of the bar. If needed, mount a small, flat roller on the aft edge of the bar to support/guide the bow strap.

Another option (not free, like the one above, though) is a power winch.

FWIW, I prefer to power load whenever possible. I find it's easier and faster. But, it does depend on a number of things, such as whether the ramp is concrete or gravel, whether or not there are docks close to the prop wash and of course, whoever owns the lake/ramp.
 
I think I'm going to try a roller and see if it makers a difference. In my paper cut-outs it looks like it will and it should have the same net effect a FDM's extra bunks for loading. An engineer with CAD software could mock it up too, but I don't have that. I will post back when it's done and how it works. MM
 
MonacoMike said:
I think I'm going to try a roller and see if it makers a difference. In my paper cut-outs it looks like it will and it should have the same net effect a FDM's extra bunks for loading. An engineer with CAD software could mock it up too, but I don't have that. I will post back when it's done and how it works. MM
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I was advised by the trailer folks at "The Hub" in FL to put in a 10 foot bunk that extends from my current keel support to the middle of the main bunks to provide as much lift as early as possible instead of the roller I was planning to install. It worked perfect in my first off-load and i am excited to load to see if that solved my issue. MM
 
Here is my new keel bunk. MM

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P1020550.jpg


P1020551.jpg
 
So does it work?! I don't really understand why you need these new bunks to extend that far rearward...what's the point? In any case, I think it's no different than Floriduramax's design in principal.

Tomorrow I am going to mock up another set of forward bunks like Floriduramax has done, due to the same issues I have in loading/unloading. Currently, I set my anchor on the deck as Scott mentioned early on, and while it helps, I still have issues, mainly with loading.

While I never power loaded my 175, I have no choice with my 280DA. The ramp I need to use has no side docks, and due to the issues with loading, I can't put the trailer in too deep and need to really add some power to get it up there. I'm hoping to perform this trailer mod discussed here to eliminate the issues. Keep us posted.

Tom
 
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Gunn said:
So does it work?! I don't really understand why you need these new bunks to extend that far rearward...what's the point? In any case, I think it's no different than Floriduramax's design in principal.

Tomorrow I am going to mock up another set of forward bunks like Floriduramax has done, due to the same issues I have in loading/unloading. Currently, I set my anchor on the deck as Scott mentioned early on, and while it helps, I still have issues, mainly with loading.

While I never power loaded my 175, I have no choice with my 280DA. The ramp I need to use has no side docks, and due to the issues with loading, I can't put the trailer in too deep and need to really add some power to get it up there. I'm hoping to perform this trailer mod discussed here to eliminate the issues. Keep us posted.

Tom
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I really can't answer the length question personally, but the reason I was told was to raise the bow as soon as possible, and yes it is the same as FDM's. One issue I have is the anchor roller goes down to within an inch of where the anchor itself sits,so pulling the anchor does not make that much room for me. I will let you know Thursday how loading goes. MM
 
MonacoMike said:
Here is my new keel bunk. MM

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P1020551.jpg
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I would like to see how the boat looks sitting on them. They look very close together. Maybe the keel is very different on our boats? My bunks are using the strake (sp) out board of the point of the keel.

They look cool. I saw that type of set up on some deck boats and center consoles. That's where I got the idea.
 
floriduramax1 said:
I would like to see how the boat looks sitting on them. They look very close together. Maybe the keel is very different on our boats? My bunks are using the strake (sp) out board of the point of the keel.

They look cool. I saw that type of set up on some deck boats and center consoles. That's where I got the idea.
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They suggested a 6-8 inch spread and if they fit the strakes to go wider in the rear. I may try to open up the rear a little more later if I feel we need it as I have a few inches left. MM
 
Just an FYI, Mike, as far as spacing goes - I have centering boards like you do up front (although mine are only about 3' or 4' long). They are about the same distance apart as yours. Actually, I think I adjusted mine even a little closer. My trailer was originally a roller trailer and I rebuilt it to a bunk trailer. I used to have a front keel roller (had either 6 or 8 rollers in a row), but that is now those centering bunks.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Just an FYI, Mike, as far as spacing goes - I have centering boards like you do up front (although mine are only about 3' or 4' long). They are about the same distance apart as yours. Actually, I think I adjusted mine even a little closer. My trailer was originally a roller trailer and I rebuilt it to a bunk trailer. I used to have a front keel roller (had either 6 or 8 rollers in a row), but that is now those centering bunks.
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Thanks, Dennis! Do you have any trouble going over or missing them in a strong wind? MM
 
Lazy Daze said:
Just an FYI, Mike, as far as spacing goes - I have centering boards like you do up front (although mine are only about 3' or 4' long). They are about the same distance apart as yours. Actually, I think I adjusted mine even a little closer. My trailer was originally a roller trailer and I rebuilt it to a bunk trailer. I used to have a front keel roller (had either 6 or 8 rollers in a row), but that is now those centering bunks.
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Do you have trouble with your anchor hitting now?
 
MonacoMike said:
Thanks, Dennis! Do you have any trouble going over or missing them in a strong wind? MM
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Mike, when I pull up to trailer in very strong current and wind, my rear guide poles actually places the boat every time as long as I go slow and easy. I think with the hull and side design of the 280, it helps. When I just had the keel roller I could go off sideways:( Now I hit straight every time:) I think the twins help too ...lol
 
I've had my trailer this way for about 2 years, now. My wife is the one that takes it on/off and 95% of the time it works great. Once in a while (if she's trying to rush) she might miss. But, I usually have the trailer in far enough so it doesn't require a huge amount of throttle for power loading. If I pulled the trailer out a little further, it would make it easier to get lined up - but then it would be harder to get all the way up to the bow stop (without then backing the trailer in further, again).

When we had the keel roller assembly, it did make getting on straight more of a chore. As you can imagine, once that hull gets inside the bunks, they pretty much guide the boat straight on. With the rollers, it would sometimes start to ride off the edge of the roller and I would have to constantly motion to her to "turn right" or "turn left" as she powered on.

The only time the anchor hits the top roller is on a very steep ramp - but even then, it doesn't hit it very hard - just a little nudge - no problems.

As it is now, it loads and unloads very easy. It's funny - some of the lakes (we go all over - fresh and salt) we go to are typically populated by 18'-20' bowriders. You should see their faces when we're in and out twice as fast as them!

I used the same bunk glides (Tie Down) on all of my bunks as you have on your centering bunks, Mike (my rear bunks are also 2x6's). I'll never have carpet, again.
 
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