Amp is over heating..

FLAScott185Sport

New Member
Jun 4, 2008
74
Orlando Florida
So I am having issues cooling my Amp where it's mounted on my boat. It's in open air but has no air flow. It keeps cutting out due to the heat. Suggestions on how to cool it? Possible fan blowing on it?
 
"Possible fan blowing on it? "

Yep, that's the best way to avoid this common problem with an amp install. Go to Radio Shack and get one of these, mount it so it blows on the amp. Problem solved.

s-fan.jpg


Just connect it to the amps' power lead, that way it is on whenever the amp is on.
 
See my comment below the picture of the fan,

"Just connect it to the amps' power lead, that way it is on whenever the amp is on."
 
The key is to lift the amp off of the surface it is mounted to. The best way to do this is place 1/2-3/4 inch spacers between the amp and surface via the screws. then you need to buy a fan that blows air under the amp. I believe the Stingercompany makes one for car audio. I would wire to the amp as well but toggle it if possible. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/scat/28046/SFV/30046
Look at the first fan. it has worked well for me
 
Or, turn down the volume.
 
Ok, maybe a dumb question, but would having the volume up really produce to much heat?

Yes! More volume means more watts means more heat! The fan will pull in cooler air and push out hotter air.
 
Ok, maybe a dumb question, but would having the volume up really produce to much heat?

Yes, and sometimes quite significantly depending on the "class" of amplifier in question. For example, a pure class A amplifier, which most audiophiles regard as the cleanest amp, is theoretically at best 50% efficient although in practice usually 25-30%. Thus it dumps most of the power consumed as heat. Work it harder and you get lots more heat. Generally, audio amps were usually of class AB, which was a hybrid of B and A. They could be theoretically 78% efficient. Other classes are more efficient, but noisy. Some of the newest classes are pretty efficient, like class D, if you don't mind the switching artifacts in your output signal.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Yes, and sometimes quite significantly depending on the "class" of amplifier in question. For example, a pure class A amplifier, which most audiophiles regard as the cleanest amp, is theoretically at best 50% efficient although in practice usually 25-30%. Thus it dumps most of the power consumed as heat. Work it harder and you get lots more heat. Generally, audio amps were usually of class AB, which was a hybrid of B and A. They could be theoretically 78% efficient. Other classes are more efficient, but noisy. Some of the newest classes are pretty efficient, like class D, if you don't mind the switching artifacts in your output signal.

Best regards,
Frank

How on earth do you know all this stuff! Your knowledge amazes me. So if I want the best amp for our boat I should go with a D class?
 
See my comment below the picture of the fan,

"Just connect it to the amps' power lead, that way it is on whenever the amp is on."

Although an old thread, I had to comment on this.

You can't just hook it up to the power lead, that's now how amps work. Power is always going to them (if installed correctly) and are turned on and off by a remote wire that goes to the head unit (your radio).

No you can't connect to the remote wire either it's only got enough power on it to trigger the amp on/off. You will need a relay to control the fan on and off with the remote wire and the power lead to the amp.

And as already pointed out, if your amp is turning off from overheating your basically pushing it to hard and will eventually blow it up, turn it down or get a bigger amp. If you have to ad fans to get it as loud as you want then it's probably to loud and you need a bigger amp, and then you probably need bigger speakers.
 

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