Air Horn Question

The issues I have w/ the Kahlenberg horn wiring diagram are that the solenoid switch is not shown as fused and there aren't snubber diodes shown.

The solenoid switch needs to connect to a fuse / circuit breaker protected 12 VDC feed. If connected to a fuse, double the rated current of the solenoid. It should also be okay to hook it to the protected side of the circuit breaker.

The solenoid and the motor will create an inductive voltage kick when de-energized. That will cause contact corrosion. The contacts may be protected by adding snubber diodes, w/ the cathode to the positive side of the load contact and the anode to ground.

Did you go w/ the whole Kahlenberg kit, or just their horn?
 
I bought the Kahlenberg K-380 (which includes horn with matched compressor and tank) and also bought their V-170 solenoid valve. In addition, they are sending me a DIN to make the solenoid connection. (BTW - Their customer service and technical support have been outstanding.)

To wire the horn system, I am planning to use two separately fused and switched circuits. For the compressor, I will connect the pressure switch to the fuse panel, controlled by a heavy duty rocker switch and protected by a 20 amp fuse. For the solenoid switch, I will connect it to the fuse panel, controlled by the existing horn momentary switch (since I'm discarding the duck horn) and protected by a low amp fuse.

Do you think snubber diodes are necessary for the solenoid? It is rated at 2.4 watts, which I think means 0.2 amps.

Thanks again for your help with this.
 
Yesterday I installed the Kahlenberg K-380 dual horn, matched compressor and tank and V-170 solenoid valve.

For the compressor, I connected the pressure switch to the fuse panel with 14 qauge marine wire, with as per the directions, a 25 amp fuse. I didn't install a switch at this stage because the fuse panel is controlled by the battery switches and unless there is a drop in pressure (which I was told by customer service there should be no drop at all except for a leak) there is no reason for a switch. I can shut off the battery switch and pull the breaker for service or a problem. We'll see how this works out.


For the solenoid switch, I connected, with 18 gauge marine wire, it to the existing horn momentary switch (since I'm disabling the horn that came on the boat) and installed a 3 amp in line fuse coming out of the switch.


Man is it loud!!

Shockingly so.

I have a gas boat so I couldn't mount the compressor in the engine room (kaboom) so it's kinda loud but I don't expect that it will have to cycle except for maybe on start up if the boat hasn't been used for a while. The tank will give you 3 or 4 blasts before the pressure drops enough for the compressor to kick in and it only runs for about 8-10 seconds.

Well my yearly project is done for 2009.

Now I have to start thinking about a project for 2010.
 
I just checked Kahlenberg's website, I like that you can hear the different horn models. AND they are made in WI....you should get some attention with the pair you just installed....
 
On the website, the K 380 is is designed for boats up to 45 ft. I was considering going with the next size up. On the wesbite it even sounds bigger and better but the price was about double so I went with the "baby". If the "baby" is as loud as it is in actuallity, I would be scared sh--less to hear the "big brother".
 
I installed mine today, and it performs exactly the way 2003380 described. I agree it is "shockingly" loud. (So does the guy who runs the boat yard, who heard the thing all the way from the other side of the yard, inside his office, with the windows closed, and the AC on.)

Thanks to all who wrote in on this thread and helped with their advice.
 
Hey lawn doctor

On a 225 weekender do you use the horn like a bow thruster to back the boat into your slip?
 
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