Air Conditioner Install (New Install) 2000 Sundancer 240 marinaire 6k BTU

k-nutz

Member
Jul 8, 2014
173
Stafford, VA
Boat Info
2000 SunDancer 240
2013 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Denali 6.6 Duramax
Engines
5.7 MERC w/BRAVO III
Been a while since I have been on here so I figured it was time to contribute.

So as the title states, I have been in the process of installing A/C on my boat for the last 2 weeks. The rain has held me back considerably as it seems like Virginia is in some Seattle Twilight Zone for the past couple of weeks. Friday I got my new Cockpit Isinglass back (Had the front pieces re-done with a zip out section in the middle, and a zip out/screen placed in the rear). Since I now have my complete camper setup on hand, the rain is no longer an excuse. I no longer have to crawl in and out from under my cockpit cover I figured I had no excuse for dragging it out.

A/C Unit - marinaire 6000BTU self contained A/C www.marinaire.com

Previously completed (last year I didnt do the full install since it never got that hot).
- Wiring to Electrical Panel
- Seacock installed in bilge over the winter.

Plan
- Install A/C behind false all in the aft cabin.
- Install Pump/Strainer in Bilge and route associated plumbing.
- Install Mermaid Condensator to pull condensation from drain pan since placement/natural list of the boat makes a sump drain unrealistic.
- Install 2" Ducting/Vent to Front Cabin into the valance that covers the windshield wiper motor.
- Install 2" Ducting/Vent into the Steps into the front cabin pointing forward to front cabin
- Install 3" Ducting/Vent in the cockpit next to the captains chair. (This was an after thought after I discovered I couldnt do 3" ducting to the other two locations.
- Install A/C controller (still trying to figure out where I want to place it, waiting on longer cable).


I am still waiting on some parts to arrive this week but here is my progress so far. I removed the overhead valance on the side of the head, it covers the wiper motor but has plenty of room for installing the vent that I chose. When I cut out the wood for the vent I discovered that I didnt have enough room to clamp the hose to the vent so I bored out a 3 inch hole around the original hole. Since it was 2 layers of plywood I only went through the first layer.

Second vent I installed in the steps leading into the cabin.

I initially intended on using 3 inch ducting throughout but when after I got everything measured and tested I learned that I would be forced to use 2 inch ducting. So as not to waste my 3 inch ducting I am putting a 3 inch duct in my cockpit.

More pictures to follow, but this is what I have so far.


http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Mike...at/Boat Projects/Boat Air Conditioner Install
 
You've prob accounted for this but... Ensure you add enough ducts to compensate for using the small ducts.

I'm interested how it turns out because, I've never seen 2" flex used before in a cooling installation.
 
Yeah, I'm not to sure how many extra Ill need but I plan to add another 3 inch in the aft cabin if needed and another 2 inch to the forward cabin valance. If that isnt enough than another 2 inch in the step as well.

The return will be in the aft cabin so it should pull all the cool air back as well. One thing is for sure, ANY a/c is better than none.

Still have to drill the thru hull for the discharge but I need a dry day for that.
 
Also about the flex duct/tubing... obviously I woulda preferred insulated to keep the air cool but I couldnt find any in 2" and as tight as my space requirements were for the ducting I didnt look too hard... additionally sonce the tubing only travels max 6 feet on either path I dont see it causing too much of a loss in cooling.

My main concern is the thru put w/2" vents. Fingers crossed.
 
I've always wondered about those Mermaid Condensators. Do they really work and will they work reliably? That things fails, you'll have real mess on your hands during a muggy summer day. I might suggest installing a water leak sensor attached to the side of the pan so should water overflow, you'll hear it immediately.
 
May I ask a question? Where is that unit installed? It looks like next to the water heater. Is that in the bilge?

No that is the electric control box that controls the ac and the pump. Its in the aft cabin starboard side under the captains chair behind the false wall. The picture of the unit was taken from the port side.
 
I've always wondered about those Mermaid Condensators. Do they really work and will they work reliably? That things fails, you'll have real mess on your hands during a muggy summer day. I might suggest installing a water leak sensor attached to the side of the pan so should water overflow, you'll hear it immediately.

Haha, way ahead of you there brother... I bought a few for my house that I am throwing behind the false wall and will have it taped to the side of the condensation pan. Once I get a discharge port installed I will run the AC and pour some water into the pan to test it out.
 
The insulation around ac supply ducts also helps keep the sweating down you may find water dripping from the supply ducts on very humid days. I'd wrap them with insulation.
 
The insulation around ac supply ducts also helps keep the sweating down you may find water dripping from the supply ducts on very humid days. I'd wrap them with insulation.

Hmmm very valid point that I hadn't thought of... u think a simple wrap would do the trick? Supposed to get pretty hot pretty fast the next couple of days so I should be able to test for sweating since the humidity will likely be pretty high with all the moisture in the air right now...
 
I've always wondered about those Mermaid Condensators. Do they really work and will they work reliably? That things fails, you'll have real mess on your hands during a muggy summer day. I might suggest installing a water leak sensor attached to the side of the pan so should water overflow, you'll hear it immediately.

My last boat ... I installed a Mermaid system with their Condensator to drain the pan.
Just keep the inline filter clean and it'll work good.
Still, if you have an easy way to the shower sump .. I'd drain to that instead.
 
6000 BTUs cooling the cockpit as well as the area down below is going to be an capacity issue. Too few BTUs. Also, you will have to insulate the ducts to avoid water damage from the condensate dripping off the ducts. My 1993 Express Cruiser made a/c'd air that was so cold that condensate water stained the fabric on the cabin wall where the cold air hit it on a steamy summer day. The grill was wet as well. The ducts must have been insulated or there would have been a huge issue with water dripping from them along the runs.
 
6000 BTUs cooling the cockpit as well as the area down below is going to be an capacity issue. Too few BTUs. Also, you will have to insulate the ducts to avoid water damage from the condensate dripping off the ducts. My 1993 Express Cruiser made a/c'd air that was so cold that condensate water stained the fabric on the cabin wall where the cold air hit it on a steamy summer day. The grill was wet as well. The ducts must have been insulated or there would have been a huge issue with water dripping from them along the runs.

Cockpit isnt meant to be "cooled" moreso just to have a little airflow, the vent will be shut most of the time to ensure max cooling in the cabin. Duct insulation is something I will be looking into seriously, but likely will have to go with some sort of wrap.
 
My last boat ... I installed a Mermaid system with their Condensator to drain the pan.
Just keep the inline filter clean and it'll work good.
Still, if you have an easy way to the shower sump .. I'd drain to that instead.

I don't think you have any easy route to the shower sump but why not route a hose back into the bilge? I do think you have easy access to rear of the boat from the aft cabin. I know some on the board would think discharging ac pan water into the ER bilge is heresy but it's a safe option IMO.
 
Project is officially complete.
After my initial upload I had alot of work stuff going on so I hadn't been able to update the thread and I hadn't been able to complete the project until yesterday morning. I dropped the boat in the water today for the official op test after the garden hose test.

My overall thoughts on the A/C unit and install. Installation instructions were lacking. I even called their service folks with questions pertaining to the electrical and was informed that I should have a qualified electrician install the electrical. wasn't really impressed with that, but I did call back again and spoke with a different individual and was satisfied with the service I received on my second call. Also the installation kit has all the plumbing fittings, and the instruction calls for 5/8 inner diameter tubing. 2 of the fittings were 1/2 or 5/8 inner diameter fittings, the rest were 1/2 inner diameter fittings so that meant I had to REALLY tighten down the pipe clamps... I ultimately ordered new fittings that were the 1/2 or 5/8 tapered fittings. As for the return vent, ducting and other items I ordered those from suremarine since they had everything I needed, wasnt too impressed with their shipping rates though.

For the price I would do it again, but I would DEFINITELY do it during the winter instead of early summer, I lost a lot of water weight doing this project. So far I would recommend this to unit to others, but longevity is a question that has yet to be answered and if I run into any issues I will post them up.



Insulated Ducting After someone brought it to my attention that the possible issue of the ducting sweating could lead to mold. I insulated all the ducting using an insulated wrap since 2 inch insulated ducting couldn't be found. I only took one picture. I was going to just wait and see but changed my mind because I would rather re-do it now instead of once it gets hotter in the summer. And yes I did pull the insulation tight and clamp it down to the vent after I took this picture.
20160530_020419.jpg


After I completed all the ducting and wiring I went ahead and installed the strainer and pump. The thru hull water pickup was installed a couple years back. I didnt have any starboard handy so I used PVC trim board from Lowes to give me a good mounting surface for my strainer.
20160604_111904.jpg


OP test before dropping into the water and before buttoning everying up. This is the cockpit A/C which I intend to keep closed for the most part but will use it when working in the cockpit when the canvas is up.
20160604_131212.jpg


Cabin vent OP test.
20160604_132909.jpg


Return Air Grill. Since I was already moving the false wall in 4" to accommodate the A/C I didn't want to move it in another 1.5 inches to accommodate the mounting feet so I made some small cutouts for that.
20160604_161726.jpg


A/C water discharge is working well, the mermaid condensator is also functioning flawlessly.
20160605_155631.jpg


Went back to the boat a couple hours later and the Temp after running for 2.5 hours, initial temp was 90 degrees and 58% humidity.
20160605_190158.jpg
 
I don't think you have any easy route to the shower sump but why not route a hose back into the bilge? I do think you have easy access to rear of the boat from the aft cabin. I know some on the board would think discharging ac pan water into the ER bilge is heresy but it's a safe option IMO.


NO, NADA, NIET, NON.......etc. I had a less then stellar installer do this. Hello stanky smell.

1. Shower sump

2. Condensator.

3. Bilge. Lots of PineSol and Dawn in the bilge.
 
NO, NADA, NIET, NON.......etc. I had a less then stellar installer do this. Hello stanky smell.

1. Shower sump

2. Condensator.

3. Bilge. Lots of PineSol and Dawn in the bilge.

Yeah, I wouldnt have gone this route at all. Even the less than stellar install manual says NOT to route condensate line to the bilge.
 
Any update this year k-nutz? I have an 04 240 Sundancer and want to install an air conditioner. I'm sure you have more pictures you could share. I couldn't open up the pictures on your last post.
 
Same here, I'm about to install a heater on same boat and really need some picture and advises. I don't even know how to remove the midcabin wall.
 

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