After market anchor winch

[FourGone]

Glad to have an inside line to the SeaRay workings. I have a 2001 260DA with the armstrong winch option. I'd like to upgrade to a powered flush mount vertical unit, and am looking at a couple options - Lewmar, Maxim, others.

but my main questions is: how/where to run the heavy guage wire from the battery to the anchor locker. I've poked around a bit and getting from the battery to the main cabin is a matter of pulling off some mid cabin panelling, but then I'm stumped. Go behind the head, or behind the electrical panel and galley. And then from there to locker does it run under the shelf and drill holes ...??

when I've asked for some details from the dealer, resposne is "it's a tough job, lots of time & $$$"

So as a somewhat experienced DIYer, any suggestions or guidance?

Thanks,

 

[wingless]

The starboard side of my boat permits an "easy" run to the bow inside the rub rail by removing panels and lockers.

This is a major factory cable run location.

The winch / roller pulpit needs to be strong. When I yank my Fortress from deep in the crust, the winch pulls the nose down 'till the planet lets go.

Make certain the nose will permit reinforcement where required.

Plan out how / where the high-current will connect to the distribution system. Mine has a 105A feed. That is not trivial on a boat if it wasn't designed for that load.

 

[chelepop]

Glad to have an inside line to the SeaRay workings. I have a 2001 260DA with the armstrong winch option. I'd like to upgrade to a powered flush mount vertical unit, and am looking at a couple options - Lewmar, Maxim, others.

but my main questions is: how/where to run the heavy guage wire from the battery to the anchor locker. I've poked around a bit and getting from the battery to the main cabin is a matter of pulling off some mid cabin panelling, but then I'm stumped. Go behind the head, or behind the electrical panel and galley. And then from there to locker does it run under the shelf and drill holes ...??

when I've asked for some details from the dealer, resposne is "it's a tough job, lots of time & $$$"

So as a somewhat experienced DIYer, any suggestions or guidance?

Thanks,

As wingless has stated most of our *replaceables* are on the opposite side of the head and in most NOT all cases, is the stb side. Can't say for sure on a 260 but from my knowledge you would go from the stb aft bulk head thru the 110 panel, thru the sofa and up towards the hang locker in the v-berth.

 

[Nehalennia]

Gregg
When I installed my heater, I had all the mid berth panels off except the port side. I've considered doing the same install at some point. My batts are on the Port side and I assume your's are too. There is a wire chase from that area to the breaker panel. From there I believe the cables can be run behind the port side cabinetry and along the backrest cushions. I haven't remove any of this yet but I believe that's the factory path. If you do tackle this, please take pictures.

Wingless. His anchor roller is the same as mine and more than likely the same as your's.

 

[FourGone]

thanks all . so far....
I've checked the Owners Manual, and did find some info. figure 13.1 shows locations for the windlass breaker and solenoid in the engine compartment. figure 20.1 shows the deck mounting locations, figure 26.1 shows the wiring harness running from the engine room along the stbrd rub rail - as per wingless comment - so seems that the starboard side is the factory route. Too bad they didn't deadhead a cable ...

In poking around the cabin, looks like a cable does run along the underside of the stbrd backrest bolster. Can't (at least yet) find a way to get access, or remove the bolster, or get through the anchorlocker bulkhead. Though there is a cable running in for the lights and horn.

If there are any out there who've done this aftermarket it would be great to hear how it went..

Cheers,

 

[puck 'n round]

R U pre-wired in the anchor locker ? Is there a connector in the bilge for the relay ? Which side ? same with bus bars in the bilge ? I have a 280DA i put a windlass in , not sure about your layout

 

[Nehalennia]

Gregg
If you take your helmside Cupholder/catch-all-o-Rama out you'll see an easy path from the Engine bay through that void and then if you remove the upper gauge cluster on the dash you can see over the head enclosure. From there I haven't explored for access behind or through the closet behind the head or access to that starboard side gunnel backrest. That could be a good path. Are you planning on adding another Windlass battery(AGM) up forward?

 

[wingless]

In poking around the cabin, looks like a cable does run along the underside of the stbrd backrest bolster. Can't (at least yet) find a way to get access, or remove the bolster, or get through the anchorlocker bulkhead. Though there is a cable running in for the lights and horn.

If there are any out there who've done this aftermarket it would be great to hear how it went..

When I ran raw water washdown to the bow, there was about a 4' section along the starboard side of the master stateroom bed that I couldn't access, so I just snaked it through to the bow locker.

 

[FourGone]

Gregg
If you take your helmside Cupholder/catch-all-o-Rama out you'll see an easy path from the Engine bay through that void and then if you remove the upper gauge cluster on the dash you can see over the head enclosure. From there I haven't explored for access behind or through the closet behind the head or access to that starboard side gunnel backrest. That could be a good path. Are you planning on adding another Windlass battery(AGM) up forward?

Todd, I've had the catchall thingy out, not the upper gauge cluster - yet. Lots of room to work in there, but after the head things become a mystery - and that's the one I'm trying to solve via SRC experience.
Nope, I don't want another battery up front - maintenance, space, weight and securing are all issues I don't want to deal with while stuck upside down in that tiny anchor locker door! And I'd still have to run cable large enough to keep the battery charged.

From wingless, it seems there may not be a neat and tidy option for running the cable through the cabin area.

Again, I appreciate all the insight. Keep it coming.:thumbsup:

 

[FourGone]

R U pre-wired in the anchor locker ? Is there a connector in the bilge for the relay ? Which side ? same with bus bars in the bilge ? I have a 280DA i put a windlass in , not sure about your layout

No pre-wiring that I can see, and the dealer said no. Nothing to support a windlass anywhere, except some empy slots on a neg bus bar. Did you do your own install, and if so I'd like to know what you learned.

Thanks,

 

[puck 'n round]

Yup , i did my own install . Reason I asked those questions is that locations of some stuff drives the easiest way . For my 280 , the port side was the obvious choice because of my layout which is , starting from bilge , batteries , (battery sw /panel just above behind batteries accessed from on deck ), bus bars , then a pass-thru to mid-cabin closet ( had to remove back panel ) , then behind narrow cabinet with roll-door , behind v-berth hang up closet to anchor locker which had a cutout where factory wiring had been fed . Fed heavy wire thru this cuout over to stbd side of bow where anchor hatch is . Mounted controller just inside of hatch , nice'n easy to get at .
In your case u will have to tape 2 lengths of 16ga to your heavy wire for the controller , leave lots of extra on the bilge end to route to your helm sw. Once u determine where your run is , measure how long the heavy wires need to be ( give yourself an extra foot or three ) , recommend you put the ends on b4 your put them in . BoatUS let me use their crimper in the store . I stretched the wire out down my hallway at home , taped them together ( dont forget the 16ga ) marked the plus-minus sides. Actually installing them was a snap once i figured out the run. Took me longer to chip out the silicone in the bilge pass-thru than it did to actually run them .
I mounted the breaker right next to the battery sw .
I installed a Quick Crystal 600 ( vertical )Windlass . Had main breaker & up/down switches in the box. Went back to W. Marine about three times with an internet page printed & they price-adjusted me ( w/ slight shipping adjustment ) everytime. My total investment was under $ 900 + my time. Cool when u read about the ppl who paid $2-3000 for an install .Wasn't all that hard to do . Kind of a fun project actually .
Oh , 1 more thing , when u cut the hole for the windlass , you can jockey their template over your existing standpipe ( anchor rope hole on bow ) and it should line up perfectly .
Hope some of my jibberish helps . Any other questions , feel free....

 

[Kendall]

I just ran wires for my remote spotlight in my 2006 260 DA on the Starboard side and I believe this will be your best option as access is on that side to the anchor locker and engine room.

I had to use a stiff piece of wire to run my cables behind the head and then had to remove the starboard v berth shelf...since access is behind the front speaker to the anchor locker. I assume this would be the same for your 260. Just start taking screws out on your v berth back rest cushions and in the clothes locker and you will see the other wires running along the starboard side. I thought of doing a windless while I had everything apart...just didn't want to spend the money right now.

Not an impossible job...just time consuming.

Good luck!