Advice on some improvements to my 215EC over winter

chortle

New Member
Sep 8, 2020
10
Boat Info
Sea Ray 215 Express Cruiser 1998
Engines
5.0l Mercruiser EFI w/Alpha One Gen II
Hi all

I picked up a 98 215 Express Cruiser in good operating condition mid-season this year. She is now berthed in brackish water on the south coast of England and I have just had her lifted (originally for service and antifoul before being returned to her slip). With lockdown in force in England now, she will be kept at the yard for some time and I am going to take the opportunity to have some work done on her. I wanted to run some of that past the experts on this board to make sure that there are no gotchas! She has the original 1998 Mercruiser 5.0L EFI and Alpha One Gen 2 and was dry stacked for many years previously and well maintained. The engine starts and runs well and doesn't seem to burn or lose oil.

1. She has had manifolds and risers replaced in 2018 (and was not used in 2019) so I guess all is well there
2. The leg was removed this summer to rebuild water pump and so new gear oil etc. Bellow are in good condition
3. So for the engine, she will be serviced and winterised (and I will get the hours checked - no hour meter that I can see!). I wasn't going to do anything further with the outdrive given work a few months ago
4. It may not be practical to have the batteries removed and/or charged. I will need to check with the yard on that. Is it reasonable to ask them to do that?
5. I noticed occasional stalls when moving in and out of gear. May need shift cable adjustment or new cable, so I have asked them to look at that
6. At some point before returning to water, the hull will get fresh antifoul (and the outdrive) although they were done in June/July and should be in decent shape

Did I miss anything on the maintenance front?

Here are the"improvements" I am planning

1. The tonneau cover has shrunk and is pooling water at the back. I got a quote for a new one from Great Lakes in the US - seems like the best bet? Would it solve the pool of water at the transom end?

2. I am going to follow what @CliffA did and get a bow roller fitted (leaving the central nav light in place and tying off the anchor to one of the front cleats). I have gone for a Windline AR-2 which I hope will do the job. Does that look about right? Really hard to keep chain and anchor off the rub rail right now (maybe too much chain and anchor - about 20m chain and 10kg Danforth for anchoring in up to 5m).

3. It doesn't have the camper top and I don't really want the extra frame. But very hot with all the white GRP in the summer.! Am thinking instead of fitting two rod holders on the aft gunwales and investing in black sticks and a shade to extend the bimini to the aft at anchor/slow running. Good idea? The rod holders have caps but no bottom drains (I can get those but not sure if you can easily run drains from the gunwale storage to the bilge anyway)

4. Get the bilge pump hotwired to the leisure battery (it doesn't work with batteries isolated right now which is a slight worry. I have to come once a month and check it/run it.

5. The cabin door is so stiff! The track looks ok and I can see someone has got at it with some heavy grease before. Is degreasing and silicone-based lubricant enough?

6. One of the fixed portlights has a weeping leak (after a broken outer frame was replaced. Guess the frame needs to come off and sealant applied

7. Anchor light not working (could be fuse/electrics I guess or maybe the light itself)

8. The speedo doesn't work - will get the tube cleared if possible. Thinking of changing out for a Faria 4" GPS speedo - anyone had experience?

9. I managed to snap one of the latches on the Dometic 962 chemical loo just yesterday (actually older Sealand version). They are not easy/expensive to get hold of but actually, even as a chemical loo, it's not great. Was thinking of getting the newer version (which means fitting the new fixing kit to hold it to floor). The size is about the same. Is it a big deal to screw new fixings in (I doubt it but wanted to ask)?

An MSD "pump out" kit is available and we do have pump out facilities at the marina. Not sure I can face getting the vent and pump out fittings done this year (or even how well that would work). Advice welcome on that

10. Getting the DIN FM/CD radio changed for a new Sony one with Bluetooth (finally something easy).
11 I noticed a very small drip from the hatch no wet carpet or headline - maybe condensation?

So that's the list. Nothing individually huge but it will all add up and I just wanted to lean on those with more experience to see if it makes sense.

On another note. I guess it needs a wax/cleaner and waxing. I think it had a recent polish before coming to me. So shouldn't be necessary to do that again. Is that sufficient?

Owning a boat for the first time feels like a lot of work right now! But I guess this is par for the course. Advice welcomed.

Regard to all

Eddie
 
Hi all

I picked up a 98 215 Express Cruiser in good operating condition mid-season this year. She is now berthed in brackish water on the south coast of England and I have just had her lifted (originally for service and antifoul before being returned to her slip). With lockdown in force in England now, she will be kept at the yard for some time and I am going to take the opportunity to have some work done on her. I wanted to run some of that past the experts on this board to make sure that there are no gotchas! She has the original 1998 Mercruiser 5.0L EFI and Alpha One Gen 2 and was dry stacked for many years previously and well maintained. The engine starts and runs well and doesn't seem to burn or lose oil.

1. She has had manifolds and risers replaced in 2018 (and was not used in 2019) so I guess all is well there
2. The leg was removed this summer to rebuild water pump and so new gear oil etc. Bellow are in good condition
3. So for the engine, she will be serviced and winterised (and I will get the hours checked - no hour meter that I can see!). I wasn't going to do anything further with the outdrive given work a few months ago
4. It may not be practical to have the batteries removed and/or charged. I will need to check with the yard on that. Is it reasonable to ask them to do that?
5. I noticed occasional stalls when moving in and out of gear. May need shift cable adjustment or new cable, so I have asked them to look at that
6. At some point before returning to water, the hull will get fresh antifoul (and the outdrive) although they were done in June/July and should be in decent shape

Did I miss anything on the maintenance front?

Here are the"improvements" I am planning

1. The tonneau cover has shrunk and is pooling water at the back. I got a quote for a new one from Great Lakes in the US - seems like the best bet? Would it solve the pool of water at the transom end?

2. I am going to follow what @CliffA did and get a bow roller fitted (leaving the central nav light in place and tying off the anchor to one of the front cleats). I have gone for a Windline AR-2 which I hope will do the job. Does that look about right? Really hard to keep chain and anchor off the rub rail right now (maybe too much chain and anchor - about 20m chain and 10kg Danforth for anchoring in up to 5m).

3. It doesn't have the camper top and I don't really want the extra frame. But very hot with all the white GRP in the summer.! Am thinking instead of fitting two rod holders on the aft gunwales and investing in black sticks and a shade to extend the bimini to the aft at anchor/slow running. Good idea? The rod holders have caps but no bottom drains (I can get those but not sure if you can easily run drains from the gunwale storage to the bilge anyway)

4. Get the bilge pump hotwired to the leisure battery (it doesn't work with batteries isolated right now which is a slight worry. I have to come once a month and check it/run it.

5. The cabin door is so stiff! The track looks ok and I can see someone has got at it with some heavy grease before. Is degreasing and silicone-based lubricant enough?

6. One of the fixed portlights has a weeping leak (after a broken outer frame was replaced. Guess the frame needs to come off and sealant applied

7. Anchor light not working (could be fuse/electrics I guess or maybe the light itself)

8. The speedo doesn't work - will get the tube cleared if possible. Thinking of changing out for a Faria 4" GPS speedo - anyone had experience?

9. I managed to snap one of the latches on the Dometic 962 chemical loo just yesterday (actually older Sealand version). They are not easy/expensive to get hold of but actually, even as a chemical loo, it's not great. Was thinking of getting the newer version (which means fitting the new fixing kit to hold it to floor). The size is about the same. Is it a big deal to screw new fixings in (I doubt it but wanted to ask)?

An MSD "pump out" kit is available and we do have pump out facilities at the marina. Not sure I can face getting the vent and pump out fittings done this year (or even how well that would work). Advice welcome on that

10. Getting the DIN FM/CD radio changed for a new Sony one with Bluetooth (finally something easy).
11 I noticed a very small drip from the hatch no wet carpet or headline - maybe condensation?

So that's the list. Nothing individually huge but it will all add up and I just wanted to lean on those with more experience to see if it makes sense.

On another note. I guess it needs a wax/cleaner and waxing. I think it had a recent polish before coming to me. So shouldn't be necessary to do that again. Is that sufficient?

Owning a boat for the first time feels like a lot of work right now! But I guess this is par for the course. Advice welcomed.

Regard to all

Eddie

My WE is similar to yours so here's my $.005

1.As far as the cover, the pooling will happen regardless. You need a pole or two to support it. I have poles for my cover and I still have slight pooling in the corner, however it's nothing a snap adjustment couldn't fix to tighten it up a little.

2. I have a roller and all I really use it for is more leverage. I installed it because I had a spot for it. If I didn't, I probably would've just left it. Try a Fortress Anchor. They hold well and are light. You'll need about 10' of chain attached to the rode.

3. You could do a small track system like I did for rod holders. I did a 6" and didn't have to drill any holes (except screw holes). Got it from Berts Custom Tackle. I install the inserts when not having a rod holder in it and it looks like a step. A lot on here also recommend the small flush mounts as well, like Scotty. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/scotty-power-lock-rod-holder-with-flush-deck-mount Not sure about the 2nd Bimini your discussing, but we love ours and it's up all of the time with the exception of fishing. That little extra shade goes a long way. I got mine from Great Lakes.

4. Mine is set up to run automatically and switched at the helm. You should check that out and make sure it is working properly seeing as our boats drain into the bilge. I believe mine will work off of either batteries.

5. Degrease and try dry silicone in the tracks. Grease as you probably found out will attract more gunk.

6. yes - seal it and make sure it's dry. If there's any wood exposed or rotted wood between the glass, scrape it out of there, make sure its dry, and fill it with an epoxy like six10.

7. start with the bulb

8. Yes, however I have a Bravo outdrive and the pitot tube hole is in the lower unit. Do you have a separate pitot tube off your stern? Follow the air line back and see where it leads. Maybe you just have a fowled up pitot?

9. Not sure - I too have the 962 and works fine. Ladies only unless it's an emergency.:D

10. thumbs up.

11. Check the hatch through bolts that connect the glass to the stations . Mine was dripping though there from direct hose spray and just needed a little silicon.

Hope this helps.

Congrats Eddie and welcome to CSR!
 
Last edited:
Hi Ollie

Thanks very much for plowing through my long list! I appreciate it and will follow up on all of that.

The existing cover does have a single pole and I think maybe it also needs a smaller one at the back or something similar to stop the pooling. It is not in great shape so I may have to replace it anyway but good to know that this would still need to be sorted out.

The pitot tube is, I think, on the leading edge of the outdrive like yours - I will get them to blow it out with compressed air from the other end and try and clear it out.

I think the bow roller is doable based on a picture from another member -
7sufxgwhg0eyya6vtr7gv0gaejlp8ll9
. This is on an Express Cruiser like mine. I have ordered one that I think is identical and will see if it is a good fit before pushing the button. Will also investigate the Fortress. The combination of 10kg anchor and all the chain is really quite heavy at present!

Thanks for the link to rod holder track system - I didn't know about those - looks like a good option.

One question - I already got a quote on the camper top from Great Lakes - actually quite reasonable. But how do you store it for fishing? Do you have to remove the whole frame? Also looks like it would make it very difficult to board from the gunwale because of the two frame struts. Is it still possible to step down onto the step at the base of the gunwale storage inside the cockpit?

Best

Eddie
 
I had a custom cockpit cover made for my 225WE in order to get rid of the pole. The cover is taut over its entire surface, so there is no pooling. Maybe you could achieve the same effect with a GLBT mooring cover if you are very careful about placing the snaps.
 
Hi Ollie

Thanks very much for plowing through my long list! I appreciate it and will follow up on all of that.

The existing cover does have a single pole and I think maybe it also needs a smaller one at the back or something similar to stop the pooling. It is not in great shape so I may have to replace it anyway but good to know that this would still need to be sorted out.

The pitot tube is, I think, on the leading edge of the outdrive like yours - I will get them to blow it out with compressed air from the other end and try and clear it out.

I think the bow roller is doable based on a picture from another member -
7sufxgwhg0eyya6vtr7gv0gaejlp8ll9
. This is on an Express Cruiser like mine. I have ordered one that I think is identical and will see if it is a good fit before pushing the button. Will also investigate the Fortress. The combination of 10kg anchor and all the chain is really quite heavy at present!

Thanks for the link to rod holder track system - I didn't know about those - looks like a good option.

One question - I already got a quote on the camper top from Great Lakes - actually quite reasonable. But how do you store it for fishing? Do you have to remove the whole frame? Also looks like it would make it very difficult to board from the gunwale because of the two frame struts. Is it still possible to step down onto the step at the base of the gunwale storage inside the cockpit?

Best

Eddie

As far as the cover, I have 2 poles, so that may be your issue with pooling. Similar to this. (I am assuming this is the cover your are talking about)
2004-215-weekender-sea-ray-with-trailer-2.jpg


For fishing I usually just keep the 1st or main Bimini top up because I typically troll and am fishing off the back. Sometimes I take the 2nd rear Bimini, put the cover on it like the one shown above, then undo the two rear stations then bungie cord it, collapsed, to the 1st Bimini to keep it from blowing over while underway....and yes, sometimes I remove it and leave it with my truck at the marina just for that little bit of extra room. Unfortunately our boats are too small to store the Bimini's in the cuddy cabin.

Here is another rod holder I use that works pretty well and is inconspicuous. It in the back transom area. These are the flat plates the rod holder sits in (location circled in red). I try and keep my boat looking like it was intended, a small cruiser, and not a fishing boat, so I like rod holders to be inconspicuous and hidden.
IMG_3509.jpeg

61m8Z6nce8L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


This is where I have my track system. I also have a rod holder in the middle where the handle is on my engine cowling. (circled in red) Again, I troll a lot. To use the middle one, I have to have the cushion removed.

IMG_3485.jpeg


The Berts Custom Tackle track solution isn't the cheapest, and maybe I should have gotten the longer 12" one, but again, I didn't want this to look like a fishing boat and wanted the hardware to be removable.

Here's some links of the items I've been discussing.

For the aft locations
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Re...&keywords=stainless+steel+rod+holders&sr=8-63

For the center if you have a rail
https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Round...ld=1&keywords=Scotty+rod+holder+mount&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-229-B...ild=1&keywords=Scotty+rod+holder+mount&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-259-N...ords=Scotty+rod+holder+mount+extension&sr=8-1

For the Port and Starboard locations aft

https://www.amazon.com/Berts-Custom-Tackle-Single-Bright/dp/B001QVTNP0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=berts+track+system+6"&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Berts-Custom-Tackle-Cradle-Holder/dp/B004S31MCA/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=berts+track+system+6"&sr=8-5

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/ber...649a5aa24b0019d8cda905073e36c84a&gclsrc=3p.ds

or you could do


https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-244-B...ild=1&keywords=scotty+rod+holder+mount&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-229-B...ild=1&keywords=scotty+rod+holder+mount&sr=8-4

and of course you could drill really big holes for

https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

These have a hose fitting on the bottom so you can run a tube to the bilge so water doesn't get into your carpeted gunnel when water gets in them. I chose not to drill large holes and have pipes hanging visibly in my open gunnel storage area.




 
Last edited:
I'll add that my per fish cost keeps going up. I only caught two Lake Trout this year, but bought more equipment and probably burned 20 gallons of fuel. So the last fish I caught cost me on average of about $400. It's cheaper to go to the fish market.:D
 
Hi Ollie

Yes - the fishing is mainly for the kids - they love it (11 and 9 yrs old) and I did it with my father at their age. It's hard work but fun!

Interesting that you are happy pulling off the rear camper frame as needed. I could do that but had been put off from experience removing the front bimini. But really that was down to the pins being a little corroded. Also note you have nice stainless fittings for the camper frame. The ones for the front bimini frame on my boat are plastic. Maybe that's a better option than full rod holders with poles and sun shade top after all.

The main hassle for us is that we often board over the gunwale. My boat doesn't have the extended swim platform that you have. It just has the smaller integral one. So it isn't easy actually boarding from there. Usually we board from the front or the gunwale (on to the step at the centre of the storage. The camper frame looks like it blocks that, which is a shame. Hence the idea of doing the shade a different way

I got most of the bits and pieces attended to on the boat and its sitting winterised in storage now. After lock down ends here (hopefully Dec 2nd), am going to go and have a look with the bow roller parts and talk to the canvas guy a bit more about the shade business.

Best

Eddie
 
Hi Ollie

The main hassle for us is that we often board over the gunwale. My boat doesn't have the extended swim platform that you have. It just has the smaller integral one. So it isn't easy actually boarding from there. Usually we board from the front or the gunwale (on to the step at the centre of the storage. The camper frame looks like it blocks that, which is a shame. Hence the idea of doing the shade a different way

I got most of the bits and pieces attended to on the boat and its sitting winterised in storage now. After lock down ends here (hopefully Dec 2nd), am going to go and have a look with the bow roller parts and talk to the canvas guy a bit more about the shade business.

Best

Eddie

Yes it is a pain. You really have to duck down to get through. I take my in-laws out and my mother in-law refuses to enter from the swim platform, even though she can't see, and always almost loses her balance going between the gunnel step and the rear Bimini.

You still have a rear swim step with the small door that should help with entry.

I'll tell you, your guests will appreciate the extra shade. At least mine does. Also, when we rent a slip it's nice to have the full camper top to keep the bugs out.
 
Yes - one way or the other I am going to sort it out! If I can make the full rod holder/rod/shade combination work then I think I will give that a go as it would collapse down when not in use and could hopefully be erected and dismantled quite easily.

If not it will be the camper frame. On a warm day, it really baked (especially since our boat is all reflective white GRP in the cockpit (unlike your very nice teak-style cockpit sole).

Ironically I think the rod holders install/poles and custom shade will be quite a bit pricier than buying the camper top on frame from Great Lakes...

Eddie
 
I just have a comment about #8, your speedo not working. Since you mentioned the outdrive water pump impeller was recently changed, our older outdrives have a plastic connector for the speedo pitot tube, and when removing the lower unit for the pump impeller service this plastic fitting is sometimes broken. It is relatively inexpensive (part #22-860382). This newer replacement part has a push button type release to prevent it from breaking when the lower unit is removed. Bad news here is I think the lower unit must be removed to replace the part! The speedo will not work with a broken connector. As for the GPS speedo... I have just purchased one for my 215ec. Actually, I replaced ALL of the gauges and added a flush mounted Garmin GPS Map in the center of the instrument panel. Pictures of how I did this to follow.... Best of Luck! JOHN
 
The faria gps speedo is a really nice addition, no more fooling around with the pitot tube. It’s also really easy to install, you need one fused red wire and reuse the gauge illumination wires.
 
Actually, I replaced ALL of the gauges and added a flush mounted Garmin GPS Map in the center of the instrument panel. Pictures of how I did this to follow.... Best of Luck! JOHN
I’d like to see that.
 

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