Advice Needed - 4.3TKS versus 4.3ECT

NorCalGlenn

New Member
Feb 20, 2012
402
Bullards Bar Reservoir, CA
Boat Info
230 SLX
Engines
350 MAG / Bravo Three
Hey Folks.

I recently moved from a 2010 185 with a 4.3TKS (aluminum prop) to a 2012 190 with a 4.3ECT (stainless prop). Considering these two boats have the same hull, I was expecting better performance with the ECT.

Well, maybe it's my imagination, but it sems to me that the 190 has greater bow rise when I'm getting out of the hole, and the prop seems to get caught in an air pocket often (I think there's a term for that?).

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Maybe I'm just trimming it like I did with the TKS, and need to modify it?

On the plus side, the boat cruises at a higher speed, is quieter (and at the same time seems to have better engine/exhaust sounds)...but I didn't expect to think the TKS was a better driver! ::grin:
 
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The TKS is simply an automated choking system - doesn't really have any impact on what you're referring to. The ECT refers to the engine have catalysts - again, not a "direct" impact on performance. However, because it's an ECT engine, it does have 30 more ponies because it is fuel injected (and comes standard with the SS prop, as you noted). Although a cat may suck a few of those, it's really nothing that is noticeable - and apparently Merc worked hard to eliminate that.

That being said - I have not yet been out in a 190 Sport - but according to my "cheat book", it's listed as being a solid 5mph faster than your 185 Sport. Although the cats add some weight (may affect hole shot), you now also have an SS prop that in theory should negate that and probably better your hole shot.

Is it a 21" prop?

Nice looking boat!
 
Thanks for the feedback, DENNIS. I'd have to look into the prop size, but it is the "Vengance"...I think it's actually a bit smaller than what was on the TKS? Maybe I just need to play with the trim. I usually pull folks out of the water with it (almost completely) down, which I thought was the best way to get on plane quickly. Keep in mind that I grew up with a Boston Whaler, so stern drives are still pretty new to me.
 
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Sure, no problem, Glenn. Did you have a tower on your 185? Are you now using the tower to pull people out?

Yes, trim it ALL the way down to pull people. Then, trim it up a little bit if you find the boat listing or acting a bit squirrely.
 
I didn't have a tower on the 185, but for the life of me I've had this impression since taking it out in February and March (while the water was too cold for any skiing). I'll try tilting all the way down and...put any pudgy riders in the bow? :)
 
If trimming all the way down and adding some weight to the bow doesn't take care of the bow rise you could add some smart tabs. If you are ventilating make sure you are trimmed all the way down and make sure you aren't draging sea weed or other debris.
 
Yes, there are some good threads on the topic. No, not through - just screws that go into the transom - less than an hour to install. Don't buy them, yet -- wait and see how it works out. I'm a HUGE fan of Smart Tabs, but I'm a GIGANTIC fan of not spending money if you don't have to.
 
Well, After thinkin' about it...I went ahead and installed the smart tabs. I was surprised (shocked is more like it) at how think the hull was, and ended up drilling thru it...but figure things will be okay (meaning I won't sink!) with the 3M 5200 I had squeezed n the holes and as long as the screws are in.

Right guys....right!?!

Give me some reassurance here!

LOL
 
It depends on where you drill - some places it is very thick.

5200? Why? It'll do the job and since it won't see much sun down there it should be OK (it's not UV stabilized). But it's the wrong application for the product. A regular sealant (not a super adhesive) would have been better. If you ever need to take the tabs off or remove a screw, you will likely splinter the gelcoat/fiberglass.

Did you happen to coat the inside of the holes with some resin? Also, did you chamfer the holes?
 
The 5200 was what the directions called for...and I didn't to ANY of the stuff you mentioned. I just watched the 10 minute installation video (about 10 times) and followed the instructions...which, just my luck, weren't as thorough as yours!
 
You should be fine. It's just not the preferred/ideal way to do it. Since the holes weren't chamfered, just keep an eye out for spider cracking - hairline cracks that emanate from the holes. Above the water line is one thing, but you don't want them showing up below the waterline. It's not the end of the world if they do, as often they can go unfixed without causing any problems. But the possibility does exist for water intrusion. The fix is to remove (see the problem, now, with using 5200?) the tabs, grind out the cracks larger, then refill with gelcoat and sand/buff smooth.

On the other side of things... go have fun! That boat is gonna absolutely rip out of the hole. You should notice a smoother ride when the water gets choppy, as well.
 
Dennis, thanks for the feedback and advice. I really appreciate it. I'll keep an eye on it, and if I start to see anything funky (spiderwebbing) I'll have them removed, and the gelcoat redone this winter. I just need to make it thru this summer, baby! :)
 
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Hey Dennis!

I spent my first weekend boating with the new Smart Tabs on, and *love* them!

And no water intrusion..yet! LOL
 
Looks nice! What lake are you in? That water looks very clear.
 

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