Adding windlass to a 2006 240 SSE

[melida]

We'd like to add a (DIY) windlass to my father-in-law's 2006 240SSE if its possible.

There is a factory bow roller, anchor locker, 10 kg anchor and plenty length of chain-rode. But it is not offered as an option in the spec sheet of neither 2006 nor in the following years, and only the available place to add the windlass is over the anchor locker hatch due to it's location, and we must add a 500 watt or so light weight unit.

There is also electrical wiring between helm and bow area for horn and nav lights, so adding wires for anchor seems easy.

So what are the needed parts other than windlass, control buttons, breaker and wires/cables ?

And of course how to properly do the whole installation of electrical components.

Pics of the existing set up.







I'll be at the boat today and take and post pics of engine room and helm.

TIA.

 

[alwhite00]

Subscribed.

 

[melida]

Took some inside pics of the boat.

Helm


Starboard gunwale, front through aft and battery switch.


From aft through front inside the gunwale.


Battery switch through batteries, starboard side of engine room.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I would suggest atleast #4 for the wiring to the relays. you would have to reinforce and make solid this area

and cut the hole for the windlass and add a bow pulpit to extend the anchor roller out a bit. Would also reiforce the foward cleats

 

[Henry Boyd]

You can use the wiring diagram from your 280 to give you a template of what will be needed.

Henry


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[MonacoMike]

Here is my windlass thread you might get some ideas from.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/37167-90s-270DA-Windlass-Retrofit-II

A few thoughts.

The roller doesn't look like a roller that will work with a windlass to catch the anchor.

My hatch was very sturdy, you old walk on it, is your hatch strong enough?

If you put a windlass on the hatch how will you access the compartment?

Is the compartment deep enough for the required fall for the rode?

Good luck,

MM

 

[melida]

I would suggest atleast #4 for the wiring to the relays. you would have to reinforce and make solid this area

and cut the hole for the windlass and add a bow pulpit to extend the anchor roller out a bit. Would also reiforce the foward cleats

Thanks for the suggestions BT, adding them to the list.

 

[melida]

You can use the wiring diagram from your 280 to give you a template of what will be needed.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks Henry, it will be easy buy using the 280's.

 

[melida]

Here is my windlass thread you might get some ideas from.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/37167-90s-270DA-Windlass-Retrofit-II

A few thoughts.

The roller doesn't look like a roller that will work with a windlass to catch the anchor.

My hatch was very sturdy, you old walk on it, is your hatch strong enough?

If you put a windlass on the hatch how will you access the compartment?

Is the compartment deep enough for the required fall for the rode?

Good luck,

MM

Mike thanks for your detailed reply.

Read your thread and it will be very helpfull for our project.

The existing/factory roller is only for retrieving the anchor/rode by hand easily, so have to replace it with a longer one and a horse shoe to keep the anchor secure.

Our hatch seems strong that we can step over it while boarding from bow but have to reinforce it to install the windlass.

We are thinking to leave and see the hatch as it is for access to the anchor locker, the hatch has a full lenght of piano hinge at the pivot point and a plastic turning lock. But if it won't stay closed or break the lock on a rough sea then will cut the hatch after the windlass and will make the front part fixed and the aft part access port.

Our anchor setup is a few meters chain and plenty meters of rode so the inside/hidden part of the windlass won't make smaller the compartment.

The boat will be pulled next week for winterizing as my father-in-law's season is short and than gonna start to shopping and installation when he is ready.

Thanks again.