Adding an additional battery

SeaRay said:
Slacker, do you mean the remote turn on wire for the amp and stereo?


unlvrebel,

I kept the battery disconnect switch (I assume that is what you mean) and wired everything before that.

The stereo battery has it's own circuit breaker, that can act as a disconnect. It is also after the combiner.

It is so easy to wire this thing up it doesn't seem right. Plus there is no switching and I can maintain a charge on both batteries at the same time with a shore trickle charger.
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No the remote turn for the amp I have connected to the radio. In the diagram it mentions a control wire, which I assume means from the starter. It would make sense that the other wire connected to the battery is for the radio, I just never traced it back.

For the yandina, do you need to connect the control wire from the starter to that?
 
So ya... I just ordered the Yandina. And I am going to return the switch and cables I purchased. I just went over the install with the guy at Yandina and didn't realize actually how easy it was! No control wire, etc. And that it come with the cables saves me $60-$90. Siked! I will install this as soon as it comes and take some pics.

I think I was in a hurry to get the second battery installed....
 
JediJD said:
Does anyone know the difference between a "Combiner" like the Yandina and an "ACR" like the Blue Seas? Are the terms and functions interchangeable?
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There could be some differences but they are both relays. When they know the motor is running they put the charge to both batteries. When the motor stops the relay disconnects and prevents the batteries from bleeding power from each other. The Yandina is about $55 and I have used it for 2 years with no problems. Less then 10 minutes to install and to me its worth it so I don't need to worry about the switch. When I get in the boat I turn the switch on and when I'm done for the night I turn the switch off.
 
The combiner actually senses the voltage of the starting battery and when it reaches a certain voltage (fully charged) it then switches the alternator current to the second battery.

It allows you to draw current from each battery independently but automatically combines the charging current from the alternator to both batteries. It only charges one battery at a time and switches to the second battery after the first battery is fully charged.

When you connect a shore battery charger to the starting battery, the combiner will still sense this voltage and do it's job by maintaining a charge on both batteries. I use a Battery Tender brand charger which regulates the amperage so the batteries are never overcharged.
 
Slacker said:
No the remote turn for the amp I have connected to the radio. In the diagram it mentions a control wire, which I assume means from the starter. It would make sense that the other wire connected to the battery is for the radio, I just never traced it back.

For the yandina, do you need to connect the control wire from the starter to that?
Click to expand...

My Head is killing me now!!!! This control wire??? Please clarify if I have this wrong.

After reading 4 diff threads and hundreds of posts this is what I believe to be true:

The yandina knows the alternator is producing power by sensing voltage from this control wire? This control wire would not have voltage with the engine OFF/or the alternator failed. Therefore the batteries would be seperated.

When the engine is ON and the alternator producing power, the control wire has voltage causing the yandina to connect the batteries together allowing them both to charge.

Assuming this logic is correct I have 2 questions.

1. Where does the control wire get it's voltage? What is it connected to?

2. When the batteries are fully charged do they simply quit accepting a charge? (very simple I know, my head is trying to process all this info and i'm tired)
 
There is a an optional control wire with the Yandina. Not sure when you would want to use it. The link below is to the install manual. You can purchase directly from Yandina or save a few dollars and purchase from one of their retailers. Look at the first picture in the manual for the simple way to install.
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C50Data.pdf Don't worry about overcharging. Your current charger (alternator) is charging all of the time.
 
After speaking with the guy at Yandina he said there is no need to use the control wire. I myself question what it does... but I'm all for not using it if it works without it. As long as I am not ruining something by not using it. I jsut got it yesterday in the mail and plan to install it this week.
 
Please post after you're done telling us how it went. I know I am considering this, but have so much information to digest (while I save up) in order to do it right the first time.
 
matthewmiller01 said:
Please post after you're done telling us how it went. I know I am considering this, but have so much information to digest (while I save up) in order to do it right the first time.
Click to expand...

I planned the install for 2 seasons. Worried about the connections. Last year we started using rack storage and I couldn't rely on charging the battery before each trip. The install turned out to be very easy. Wish I would have done it years ago. Look at figure 1 of the attachment in my post above. The picture uses an outboard but its the same concept. The layout is simple and the install is that simple. I got the battery cables from a Battery store. I heard that you can also get custom cables from a car audio installer. Both these options are cheaper then pre-made from a marine store. If you already have 2 batteries then this install is really less then 10 minutes.
 
I just looked at the Yandina unit and noticed the wires running to the batteries, etc. are only like 12 gauge. I assume this is right? I always thought it was ok to go bigger, but not smaller in the size of a wire when connecting batteries. Are yours the same? My only assumption is that the wires can be smaller because they are solid and not stranded?
 
Slacker said:
I just looked at the Yandina unit and noticed the wires running to the batteries, etc. are only like 12 gauge. I assume this is right? I always thought it was ok to go bigger, but not smaller in the size of a wire when connecting batteries. Are yours the same? My only assumption is that the wires can be smaller because they are solid and not stranded?
Click to expand...

The size and lenght of the wire is important for the relay to work correctly. I know it seems small but it works.
 
I used a fairly big negative wire, probably a 1/0 size and 12" long. I purchased it from an automotive store. I doubt it needs to be that big but it was only about $6.00.

The blue wire is only used if you have an AGM or gel type battery as your aux battery.

I have not had any issues using it and we have had the boat out about 10 times so far. I am running three amps off the aux battery.
 
Hello-

I am also going to be doing what everyone is discussing here. I want to use the blue sea system dual battery setup, but I am confused as to which leads are which in the out of factory setup.

Ultimately I need to identify the lead that powers the accessories (radio, etc) vs. the lead that powers the ignition/starter/etc. so that I can hook them up to their corresponding batteries. I see that there is a large red wire tied to the main battery terminal and a smaller black wire tied to a sub-terminal on the single battery setup. Are these two the accessory (red) and starter (smaller black) leads?

Also -- while I have you here -- where would be a good place attach leads for the amp? Are there unused power leads running to the back of the stereo compartment already?

Thanks for your help!!!
 
As you know I went with the automatic method for less, but the blue sea system did sound good. But why bother?

Anyhow, to answer your amp question.. there is no power and ground wire thick enough for a decent amp already run to the back of the stereo. I would recommend using nothing less than a 6 gauge wire to power it and ground it. I went with a 4 gauge myself.
 
any idea about my other question -- how to determine what leads going into my current battery are part of the stereo system (and thus want to be moved to the 2nd battery)?

thanks!
 
quadritic said:
any idea about my other question -- how to determine what leads going into my current battery are part of the stereo system (and thus want to be moved to the 2nd battery)?

thanks!
Click to expand...

Remove all wires from the positive post. The large red wire is the starter / alternator wire. All other wires can be moved to the 2nd battery. If you want extra precaution you could keep the bilge pump and stereo memory wire on the starter battery ( since that battery is least likely to be fully drained). You can find these wires since they lead to a breaker or fuse that is close to the battery.
 
SeaRay said:
The combiner actually senses the voltage of the starting battery and when it reaches a certain voltage (fully charged) it then switches the alternator current to the second battery.

It allows you to draw current from each battery independently but automatically combines the charging current from the alternator to both batteries. It only charges one battery at a time and switches to the second battery after the first battery is fully charged.
When you connect a shore battery charger to the starting battery, the combiner will still sense this voltage and do it's job by maintaining a charge on both batteries. I use a Battery Tender brand charger which regulates the amperage so the batteries are never overcharged.
Click to expand...

I don't think the highlighted statement is true. The combiner senses the voltage and once the voltage is above 13.3v it will combine (connect) the 2 batteries. You easily rach 13.3 volts when the alternator is working so both batteries would be connected and charging then.
 
I'm probably going to be installing a 2nd battery here soon, and have determined that if I truly want to split out my running and house loads, I'm going to need to add a second fuse block. Running loads (critical) will probably remain on the existing block (bilge pump, blower, ignition, starter, nav lights, guages, horn), while house loads will move to the new battery (radio, amp, acessory outlets). This will also end up eliminating the 'accessory' position on my key, so I'll likely have to add a separate power switch for those accessories. (can't run the Acc output of the key switch from a separate battery, as there's only one HOT input on the switch). I've already got the dual+ isolation switch from Blue-Sea, so all i have to do is add the ACR to link them up or charging.
 
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