Adding a Battery Combiner - how many amps?

HavingFun

HavingFun

New Member
Nov 14, 2006
238
Grand Haven
Boat Info
2005 SD220
Engines
350 Mag Alpha
Hi

I have a 2005 220SD with a 350 Mag. I have a one battery setup and I want to add a 2nd battery to handle my new amp. I'm thinking of getting a battery combiner. Does anyone know how many amps my Alternator puts out? I was thinking about this combiner and it will handle charging up to 75 amps.

http://www.yandina.com/c100Info.htm

Thanks
 
Hmm never heard of something like this, right now I have 2 batteries with the off,1,2,both switch, and having a remote switch seems cool to have at the helm so I don't have to go lift the seat to turn the battery switch.

for $60 why doesn't my boat just come with something like this instead of the switch.
 
I'd still add the Battery Switch also, but this may be a good add for charging both back up without having to switch on the battery switch.
See their diagram Yandina COMBINER 100 manual how it's installed on each + side of the batt switch
 
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This is the way to go. No more 1-2-Both-Off.

When combined with the Dual Circuit Plus™ Battery Switch, the CL-Series BatteryLink™ ACR fully automates the charging of two battery banks. Battery management, which was at one time difficult for many boaters, is now simple. The boat owner simply turns the battery switch to the ON position when arriving on the boat, and turns it to the OFF position when leaving. Boaters no longer have to worry about which batteries are charging or discharging. More than just a battery isolator, the BatteryLink™ ACR automatically connects batteries during the charging cycle and disconnects them under discharge.

The BatteryLink™ ACR has two parts:

A relay – a switch that is activated by an electrically powered magnetic coil.
An electronic circuit that senses the voltage level of the boat’s batteries and signals the relay switch:
Closed when voltage is high (the ACR’s COMBINE voltage)
Open when voltage is lower (the ACR’s UNDERVOLTAGE voltage)

When the sensed voltage is below the COMBINED voltage level (default setting of 13.5 volts), the relay is open. The batteries are not connected and all electrical loads are on one battery while the second battery bank is isolated. When the sensed voltage is 13.5 volts and has remained at that level for at least 30 seconds, the batteries are combined together. When combined, both battery banks are charged. When the sensed voltage drops below the UNDERVOLTAGE level (default setting of 12.7 volts) for 60 seconds, the relay opens. The house battery bank is not being charged. If the house battery bank is being discharged through loads connected to it, the start battery bank is isolated and will retain its charge.
Click to expand...
 
Sorrento 25 said:
This is the way to go. No more 1-2-Both-Off.
Click to expand...

Good call Michael. Blue Sea, a local company to me has some great stuff. I may look into that one. I have two batteries now, but would like to add two for house power and leave the existing as the engine starting side.
 
I think basically how this works is that the alternator will charge the main battery and this combiner works to divert charge to the second or third or forth battery. Its like a one way flow. If the voltage drops then the other batteries can not drain the other batteries. I will use the 2nd battery to run my new amp and everything except the starter. I'm not sure if I will put a switch in. The only advantage I see in a switch is if one battery dies then I can switch to the other battery for starting. Without the switch I could pull the leads and change the battery. From what I read there is no advantage to using 2 batteries to start the motor. With both hooked up the weak battery will suck up the charge instead of sending the power to the starter. Instead of a switch I think I will install a trickle charge so that I can keep the battery topped off when its in the driveway.
 
Morpheus said:
Hmm never heard of something like this, right now I have 2 batteries with the off,1,2,both switch, and having a remote switch seems cool to have at the helm so I don't have to go lift the seat to turn the battery switch.

for $60 why doesn't my boat just come with something like this instead of the switch.
Click to expand...

Its not really a remote switch it more of an automatic switch. When your alternator is sending power then all of the batteries get a charge and when the engine stops then the switch disconnects. Its like someone switches to both batteries when you are running then switching to one battery when you stop. I think these are relatively new and I think the technology came from the electric cars. The old technology was battery isolators and their downside was that they drained power.
 
HavingFun... the battery combiners from Yandina work very well. I had one on my 220 Bow rider to charge the starting battery first then the house bank for the stereo system. The great part about the combiners is that each bank is separated unless there is charging voltage applied. This basically means that your stereo bank can be run dead.... and you can still start the boat off the starting bank with no issues... on the run back to the marina (or where ever you go) your starting battery will charge first by itself until the voltage reaches 13.2v then the combiner will... combine the 2 banks... and begin to charge your stereo bank. The product works great and I think it would work very well for what you are attempting to accomplish.

I installed a combiner 150 when I did my installation as back then it was either a Combiner 50 or 150. I thought the 50 was a little small and I tend to buy larger than I need. The Combiner 150 also can be wired for remote combining (i.e. via switch)... should you need both batteries to start the boat.

You boat alternator puts out 65 amps http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines/inboards/sterndrives/mpi350_specs.php

Hope this helps.
 
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Here is a schematic of the setup I made on my 220 Bow Rider if your interested.

254095768_MLZQR-L.jpg
 
HavingFun said:
I think basically how this works is that the alternator will charge the main battery and this combiner works to divert charge to the second or third or forth battery. Its like a one way flow. If the voltage drops then the other batteries can not drain the other batteries.
Click to expand...
When the engine is running the alternator will be kicking out more than the 13.5VDC threshold which allows the "combiner" to provide a charge through both + leads to each battery.
When you have the engine turned off, the voltage will be below the 13.5VDC threshold, so each battery will have it's own draw off of it so both batteries cannot be drained by the other's source.
 
Todd you nailed it. The great thing is that until the starting battery voltage raises beyond the threshold the combiner is only charging the starting battery. In practice this usually takes a little bit... longer if starting battery (battery #1) has a greater discharge. Once combined the current flow is hitting both batteries.... if at any time even while charging the voltage drops below the threshold the combiner will drop the circuit. The stereo we had on the 220BR could make this happen. I validated what was happening with a voltmeter. It is a really great way to ensure the starting battery is protected from draw-down and that both banks will get charge at the appropriate time.
 
Ok...

This product may be the answer to one of my dilemmas. Now for the questions...

Obviously one battery must be a cranking battery. Can the other battery be a deep cycle only? Or does it need to be a combination deep cycle/Cranking battery?

Currently the boat was set up with two cranking batteries. A third battery (deep cylce) was added to power gps and depth finder (i added stereo to this battery).

I want to eliminate the third battery to reduce weight and free up space.

thank you for your input!

Gregg
 
280 SeaRay said:
HavingFun... the battery combiners from Yandina work very well. I had one on my 220 Bow rider to charge the starting battery first then the house bank for the stereo system. The great part about the combiners is that each bank is separated unless there is charging voltage applied.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks this helps and thanks for the schematic. What is the truecharge? Did you plug in shore power to the True Charge?
 
ghuskin said:
Ok...

This product may be the answer to one of my dilemmas. Now for the questions...

Obviously one battery must be a cranking battery. Can the other battery be a deep cycle only? Or does it need to be a combination deep cycle/Cranking battery?
Click to expand...

I think this is a tough question. I think there is a lot of talk about the best way to charge the deep cycle battery. If you follow the link to my first post there are some FAQs that might help. I think the biggest problem is mixing gel batteries with normal batteries. I was planning on putting a crank battery as the first battery.
 
having fun,

Thank you for your feedback. This FAQ says you can add two different types, but may not be practical due to differences in charging rates. Oh well, I was hoping to buy only one battery (the deepcycle is new '07).

off to West marine this p.m...
 
Having Fun,
Jeremy made a point but I don't know if it was completely clear. There is a lead that if connected to a 12 volt source you can manually make the batteries combined. This would be useful in the event that the starting battery were dead. Jeremy made a good point that he bought the 150 model because bigger is better. Might be worth considering since the 150 might have bigger wires connecting the the 2 batteries. I have the 50 on the pontoon and the wires are quite small.
 
Wish2Fish

Thanks - I think I have my spring projects lined up. I don't think the combiner and the battery will be bad but I don't look forward to installing the amp & Sub. I plan on mounting them in the area in front of the helm and its normally very hot in there.
 
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