Adding 120V Outlet for a Battery Charger in Forward Floor Locker

Cousens1

New Member
Nov 7, 2023
3
Boat Info
2000 410 Express Cruiser
Engines
Cummins 6CTA
Hi folks. New to the forums and have been searching for a while but can not find an answer so here goes...
I have a 2000 410EC that I am installing a bow thruster in. I am having the tunnel and motor installed professionally but want to do the wiring myself. As part of the install I need to put a battery and charger in the forward floor locker. What is the best way to get 120 power to the locker so I can place the charger in that area? Any suggestions, ideas and thoughts on how to run the wires would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Steve.
 
Hi folks. New to the forums and have been searching for a while but can not find an answer so here goes...
I have a 2000 410EC that I am installing a bow thruster in. I am having the tunnel and motor installed professionally but want to do the wiring myself. As part of the install I need to put a battery and charger in the forward floor locker. What is the best way to get 120 power to the locker so I can place the charger in that area? Any suggestions, ideas and thoughts on how to run the wires would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Steve.
How big a charger / battery bank? 1 or 2 group 27 or 31?
 
Avoid installing lead acid batteries anywhere except engine room. If you had to install other than engine room AGM or Lithium are the choices. Still I'd reference the ABYC standards for installing AGM forward of the engine room bulkhead.
You will need a main battery disconnect; A 400 amp Big Boy latching solenoid would be the most convenient. And, the solenoid controlling momentary switch and wiring at the helm.
You will need to fuse the circuit as close to the battery as possible; A 400 amp ANL fuse (whatever the thruster manuf requires) with holder.
Depending upon the distance between the batteries and bow thruster will determine the cable size. Whatever the chart says I always step to the next size up. For these high current loads I tend to move right to 4/0 tinned battery cable.
Cable sheathing for the positive cable will be required between the battery and fuse.
Quality tin coated copper crimp terminals for the wiring - Anchor is my go to.

On the 120V power - Battery chargers need separate circuit breakers. One can be added to the existing circuit breaker panel or install a sub-panel. As your boat is diesel the location of the sub-panel can be anywhere. That is a small battery charger so 14-3 or 16-3 triplex tinned wire would be the correct wire. Routing is probably the most difficult but along other wiring and hoses probably the easiest. Sea Ray tended to hardwire their fixed devices but a duplex receptacle is acceptable. Current code is if there is a receptacle then it needs to be GFCI protected. Your choice. Use no wire nuts on anything and only terminate with crimp connections. Heat shrink butt connectors are also acceptable provided they are in a rated enclosure.
 
Avoid installing lead acid batteries anywhere except engine room. If you had to install other than engine room AGM or Lithium are the choices. Still I'd reference the ABYC standards for installing AGM forward of the engine room bulkhead.
You will need a main battery disconnect; A 400 amp Big Boy latching solenoid would be the most convenient. And, the solenoid controlling momentary switch and wiring at the helm.
You will need to fuse the circuit as close to the battery as possible; A 400 amp ANL fuse (whatever the thruster manuf requires) with holder.
Depending upon the distance between the batteries and bow thruster will determine the cable size. Whatever the chart says I always step to the next size up. For these high current loads I tend to move right to 4/0 tinned battery cable.
Cable sheathing for the positive cable will be required between the battery and fuse.
Quality tin coated copper crimp terminals for the wiring - Anchor is my go to.

On the 120V power - Battery chargers need separate circuit breakers. One can be added to the existing circuit breaker panel or install a sub-panel. As your boat is diesel the location of the sub-panel can be anywhere. That is a small battery charger so 14-3 or 16-3 triplex tinned wire would be the correct wire. Routing is probably the most difficult but along other wiring and hoses probably the easiest. Sea Ray tended to hardwire their fixed devices but a duplex receptacle is acceptable. Current code is if there is a receptacle then it needs to be GFCI protected. Your choice. Use no wire nuts on anything and only terminate with crimp connections. Heat shrink butt connectors are also acceptable provided they are in a rated enclosure.
Great information - thank you for the advice! I am using an AGM battery. I guess the big question is accessing the the circuit breaker bank, I still have a few accessory slots available and then how I will run the wires as you said. Still some investigating to do - but thanks for the info!
 
Avoid installing lead acid batteries anywhere except engine room. If you had to install other than engine room AGM or Lithium are the choices. Still I'd reference the ABYC standards for installing AGM forward of the engine room bulkhead.
You will need a main battery disconnect; A 400 amp Big Boy latching solenoid would be the most convenient. And, the solenoid controlling momentary switch and wiring at the helm.
You will need to fuse the circuit as close to the battery as possible; A 400 amp ANL fuse (whatever the thruster manuf requires) with holder.
Depending upon the distance between the batteries and bow thruster will determine the cable size. Whatever the chart says I always step to the next size up. For these high current loads I tend to move right to 4/0 tinned battery cable.
Cable sheathing for the positive cable will be required between the battery and fuse.
Quality tin coated copper crimp terminals for the wiring - Anchor is my go to.

On the 120V power - Battery chargers need separate circuit breakers. One can be added to the existing circuit breaker panel or install a sub-panel. As your boat is diesel the location of the sub-panel can be anywhere. That is a small battery charger so 14-3 or 16-3 triplex tinned wire would be the correct wire. Routing is probably the most difficult but along other wiring and hoses probably the easiest. Sea Ray tended to hardwire their fixed devices but a duplex receptacle is acceptable. Current code is if there is a receptacle then it needs to be GFCI protected. Your choice. Use no wire nuts on anything and only terminate with crimp connections. Heat shrink butt connectors are also acceptable provided they are in a rated enclosure.
So that I can learn, why do they not recommend a battery outside the engine compartment?

Also going back to original post AGM most likely the way to go. I have heard that lithium is hard on the motor brushes and is not recommended, I suspect it is the in rush current when you flip the switch.
 
So that I can learn, why do they not recommend a battery outside the engine compartment?

Also going back to original post AGM most likely the way to go. I have heard that lithium is hard on the motor brushes and is not recommended, I suspect it is the in rush current when you flip the switch.
Lead Acid batteries out-gas hydrogen sulfide which is corrosive as in moisture turns into sulfuric acid. Hard not only on metals but will destroy fabrics. In a bulk charging environment hydrogen gas and oxygen gas is also emitted which obviously will create an explosive environment if in a small closed area. AGM is not nearly the hazard as SLA batteries but still does emit gas.

Most electric motors have low resistance and can flow a lot of current. Lithium batteries have the capability to deliver a lot of current. Part of the science of installing lithium batteries is to size the conductors feeding electric motors to establish resistance and prevent damage to brushes and prevent the battery's BMS from tripping the battery off line.
 
Sounds like a job for…..

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